bobt

I replaced these under 2 years ago but they're worn again already. Are there any higher grade than the Caterham ones available? What materials should I be looking for?

 

Thanks

Indeed they seviced the 6speed box and diff a year or 2 back.

What a great doc, thanks!

 

What a scary number of specialised tools!

 

 

 

Never really looked at it much but as the diff is currently sat on the garage floor I noticed that where the drive shafts come out looks to be a very large castle style ring. Is this infact some kind of locking ring or just part of the casing? Its covered in grime so was difficult to tell. The 'ring' appears to be held in position by a toothed tab which locates into the notches of the castle and is held with a bolt. What does it do ?

 

Cheers Rob

Anybody know roughly how much Arch will charge to repowder coat a stripped chassis?

 

Cheers

 

Rob

dichloromethane was the chemical nitromors did use to use.

Hmmmm after reading around on the subject it appears I'm not alone with my experience using the new type. The meddling hands of the EU have been at play and working to ban the active ingredient DCM. It would appear that Nitromors have taken the plunge and removed it but are now left (as will be all the other paint stripper companies) with sh!te product that no longer works.

 

Great!!!!

 

Just tried the new Nitromors formula and its totally and utterly pants 🙆🏻

 

The old stuff would strip through 2-pac paint and powder coat with total easy in a single application. The new stuff does absolutely nothing and I mean N-O-T-H-I-N-G

 

I've left in on parts of car body work (it's getting a respray) for over 20mins and it hasn't so much as softened it. Same with the powder coat. What a crock. Why on earth have they made a great product useless

 

Short of looking around and buying up any of the old sock before it dissappears from the shelves, is there a good alternative that people have tried?

 

Thanks

 

Rob

I should add that the interference fit is provided by the hole in ach poly cup through which the stainless insert passes.

 

Is that clearer

Hi peebs, just recieved a few in the post from an ebay supplier and would just like to check the authentisity of parts because they look different to bushes I've had from them in the past (non caterham ones)

 

This bush is the one used in the A-frame forward mounting points.

 

I've received a stainless inner, a steel sleave, two poly cups and two nylon washers.

What gets me about this is that the cups are placed over each end of the steel sleave, and then the stainless inner inserted through the middle. This means that the steel sleave is being used as a bearing to inner part. Only a light interference fit is holding the inner from dropping out and crap from getting between the bearing faces. I thought that with powerflex bushes it was the poly that is used as a bearing surface and not metal to metal ?

 

Can anybody verify this?

 

thanks

Well my experiment to see if a bush can take the 200deg curing temperature required for powder coating was pretty conclusive.

 

15mins in the oven and the rubber within the bush had started to ooze out

 

I guess I'll just have to fit them very carefully afterwards.

As experience has generally shown you get what you pay for, I've had a good shop about and decided to stick with the NMB ones. I've found them here for half the price of DT and CC.

 

Hmmm DT's are 37.38ex vat

 

Will the Mcgillmotorsport ones be up to th job? I just can't fathom the massive price difference

 

Wow thats a bit better. 6 quid for high performance rod end

 

Why such a large difference in price to that of CC ? Are CCs made in unobtainium?

 

Good idea

Will the curing process of powder coating be hot enough to damage metalastic bushes? Was wondering if I could fit new bushes before treatment to avoid damaging the finish when putting them in afterwards.

 

Thanks

 

Rob

The stripping continues...

 

Having just finished removing all the rear suspension I've been able to take a closer look at everything. All for rod-ends on the Watts link are fecked. The front two are loose and sloppy and the rear two and very stiff and corroded.

 

Just had a look on the caterham website here and they want 60 for EACH ONE !!!!

Is that for real??? I'm all for supporting caterham and usually but all my parts through them. This however seems a little steep. HAs anybody sourced these themselves elsewhere?

 

Cheers

 

Rob

Any recommendations on who could do this work?

 

I'm West London (Ealing) way...

 

Thanks

 

Rob

In the process of performing a complete rebuild on my 2000 superlight I've found a minor (5-7mm long) crack at the base of the weld on the pass side shock mount on the dedion tube (the mount is on the underside of the tube). Now I know this is a known issue but is the general consensus to replace the tube (its 11years old but rust free) rather than have the crack welded?

🙆🏻 I'll stick with the standard bushes then. Thanks

Hi peebs,

 

Could somebody who has purchased these before shed some light on which part numbers I need for the bushes that fit in the watts-link arms?

 

The powerflex site here lists the fore and aft bushes as different but having checked the current bushes in the rods I'm fairly sure they look identical??

 

Cheers

 

Rob

That was quick - thanks :-D

Hi peebs,

 

If I wanted to pickup a fuel filter for a K-series powered car from a local motor factors at lunch time, what would I ask for ? Is it from a 416 etc?

 

thanks

Is fitting this a fairly straight forward swap? (other than removing the flap in the tube)

I have a 2000 superlight with a standard filler (rover) cap.

Also, the bosses you welding in, where they the original spacers in the Caged fitting kit or something you had made?