Piers300

Sorry for the brief response, I was in a hurry to get to Canterbury, as we were seeing the Hollies at the Canterbury theatre. A Very good gig. In fact I was on my way to a clock repairer the other side of Headcorn and called into the aerodrome on the way back. Yes, I did come back via Pluckley. I also filled up at the Gulf station but no Super unleaded. You are obviously local to Charing. I live outside Canterbury. I have had a starting issue with my car this year, so this was the first run out since the IOW Blat in May and it was fixed by S&C last week. A great run out and glad to be back in the 7. Piers

Hello Ken, yes me on my way to Headcorn. Piers

John - I tried to separate the multi pin connector on a number of occasions and basically gave up. It took Kevin from S & C a little time to get it open. I also think my friends from the Club, Paul and Mike also had a go with no success. I am having a run out tomorrow to Headcorn Aerodrome, so we will see how it goes. Piers

It started first turn of the key this morning. So well done S&C who have cracked the problem. It has been washed ready for a suitable run out or the next secret KENT Blat. I missed one this morning as I had family staying. Piers

An update. On Friday, I had an appointment at Sevens & Classics at Brands Hatch. I got there early so the car could cool down. Kevin, their technician pretty quickly found the problem. Under the throttle bodies is a multi pin connector and I had been unable to get it separated. Kevin got it apart and found the connections were green with corrosion. He used switch cleaner and left it to soak and then refitted the connector twice to ensure a good contact . The car had not run for at least two and a half hours started first turn of the key He the balanced the throttle bodies, reset the TPS and adjusted the idle and it now ticks over very smoothly. This morning I went out to the garage and on the third attempt, it started. So it's looks like S&C have cracked the problem and the charge for their time was very reasonable. A big thank you to Andy, Tim and particularly Kevin at S&C for sorting this problem. Piers

Sorry for delay in responding: 1) Nifty. It is the Workshop Manual (original - not a copy) for the Esprit - Lotus part number: A079TO3272 dated 1979 and I believe covers the S1 and S2. The hardback cover is blue and a bit grubby as it was in our company garage until given to me probably 27+ years ago, as I had a Lotus Europa Special. I left that company 25 years ago. 2) Ian - I don't know anything about Matchless. The Service Series book is for 350 and 500 CC Heavyweight singles from 1939-1955. G80 and G3L ara mentioned + G3C and G80C and MOD 347 CC models. The book is published in 1976 by Bruce Main-Smith and is a re-published version of 1958 by Temple Press regards Piers

Jonathan - We do spring starters for diesels up to about 7 Ltrs, so 200/250 BHP. Once the engines get larger, then it is hydraulic start up to around 2000 Bhp, so something like a Caterpillar V16 running at 1500 rpm. The really big slower speed propulsion engines have either an Air starter motor on the flywheel or Direct air injection right into the cylinder head. However, these need a fully charged air receiver to start and the compressors are normally electrically driven. However, nothing will start if the ship is dead, so all Classed Vessels (i.e Lloyds, DNV, ABS etc etc) have to have an Emergency generator that provides light and power to get the ship started in an emergency. The emergency genset is not meant to be used for anything else, but will run in parallel with the main auxiliary gensets once they are up and running to transfer load without a break in supply. This emergency genset has two methods of starting and what is called a twin flywheel housing, so it can have two starter motors fitted, being Electric and Hydraulic, or air and hydraulic ect. The Hydraulic system is pressurised and can be hand pumped (hard work) or engine driven to re-charge and has a number of hydraulic receivers based on the number of start attempts required by the Class Society. It will hold pressure for years. In two previous jobs, I used to make these generators. Now I just do the control systems for the main and emergency gensets. Piers

Hello All Again thank you for your patience and remember you are dealing with a not very savvy PC guy. Yesterday, I looked to see how you put the password/number into the system and made no progress. I also looked to see how I save the existing ECU file. I am going to have another go tomorrow as I have a house full today. Thanks Piers

Hi Jonathan Stating Marine Diesels in a dead ship condition. My company specialises in the manufacture of Hydraulic, Air and Spring starting systems specifically for this requirement. Small engines use Spring starters and larger mainly hydraulic and air systems. If the vessel is classed, the it has to have emergency starting. See our web site: www.ipu.co.uk and finding Starting Division. Piers

Revilla. See post 158. We did that last weekend and feed the ECU from a separate battery. Piers

I have a day at home in the garage, so I fitted a new TPS and as I thought, it made no difference, but I had to do it as the last part of my jigsaw puzzle. I now have a very full spares kit, which may not be a bad thing in the long term, as for me, this car is a keeper. i have also attached the laptop and discovered that there are three pages to view on Easimap 5.5. Of course the car would not start from cold, so a squirt of fuel and away it went. On the second page, one of the items Adaptive Status was flashing Red and saying Speed Out of Tolerance. Once it warmed up, the colour changed to orange but was still flashing out of tolerance. So this is all very new to me. What should I be looking at to give an indication why it will not start from cold? Piers

Do they need Loctite ? Thanks for response Piers

What is the correct torque setting for the three bolts on a K series starter motor with the adaptor spacer. Car is an R300K from 2004 and has a Ford Sierra starter motor. Thanks Piers

Revilla. I just made up a cable to connect from the starter solenoid connection to battery positive and no joy. It cranked fine but did not fire. The 7 has a key to turn on the ignition and a red starter button to engage the starter motor and as said previously, NO isolator. It is I believe a standard R300K. i think I now have to suspect the wiring to the injectors and Arnie Webb suggested this at the beginning. Piers

Update No 3 As I have a problem with my back (again), Paul Head and Mike Braun kindly came round on Saturday to help. Thank you guys. We first of all reviewed what I had found and re-tested to get similar results. We initially had 6.0/7.00 volts at the battery at cranking, but a clean up of all the earth's raised it to between 8 and 10 volts but still it would not start. We tested everything we could think of and no joy. We did put a second battery in parallel but nothing except a smell of fuel. So in the end we gave up. At the end, as we'd had everything apart, we squirted in some fuel and away it went. The only thing that has not been replaced is the TPS and I might try and get one on Monday. For Paul and Mike, they too found it frustrating and believe it is something quite simple. Piers

Just to confirm, I fitted a brand new battery 4 weeks ago and also a new starter motor fitted a bit later. The battery I replaced is still fine, so I can use jump leads and link it up in parallel. I do not have a cut off Isolator switch. I do have a meter. So, I need to check all the earth and battery connections - that I will do tomorrow. I will disconnect the coil and injectors and check the cranking voltage. I will also check with my meter the cranking voltage across the battery and from the negative to block and chassis, all as suggested As far as I am aware the settings in the ECU are factory default and as I had to add the RS 232 connector, I would think no one else had made any changes. Lots to do tomorrow then. Thanks for all your input. Piers

Another update Friday 2 Sept 3:00 PM: The lead arrived today and this afternoon I connected it to the old lap top and it is all working. Hurray. Please take into account this is the first time I have used this Easimap 5 software, so in reality, I have not really got a clue what I am doing and what I am looking at. What I noticed is that the the message "connected to module" was flashing red when cranking as if the ecu was turning off and coming back on. The voltage display was saying 6.0 volts and fluctuating to around 6.88 and it returned to 12.66 when not cranking. This indicates a large voltage drop, so is this telling me I have either a bad power connection to the ecu or a bad earth from the ecu ? So the readings I noted with the ignition on and cranking were as follows: Ignition On Cranking Volts Battery volts 12.66 I saw 6.0 and 6.88 on Easimap Air Temp 20 20 Coolant temp 17 17 POT 2 0 TPS IGH 15.1 13.4 Ignition advance 29.5 27.9 POT 1 0 TPS v.s. Speed 1.9 Injection Timing 3.16 Throttle position voltage 0.41 Injector duty cycle 0 3 Is there anything else that needs monitoring ? Thank you all for your help in advance. Piers

In my old Super Sprint, it used to have overheating problems in traffic. I fitted an override switch onto the fan sensor that permanently switched the fan on. So when approaching stationary traffic, I would switch the fan on and this kept the temperature under control and it did not overheat so easily. However, I have not had to do it yet to my K series 7. Piers

I used to sell spark plugs into the gas engine CHP market. We always said that whe taking a plug out for inspection, that a new crushable washer should be fitted, as the washer can only crush once. Piers

Update just to keep Ian and John comfy while precariously balanced on the edge of their seats. This has been going on so long now, that I have fallen off the seat too many times. Every time I change a component, I think it will crack the problem - but no. I am told the lead to connect between the car and laptop is in the post to me, so I have to be patient and wait. By the end of this coming weekend I hope to have positive news, assuming that the software tells me something not known. I just keep thinking it has to be a bad connection in a socket or a break in a cable. Finding it will be the problem. Piers

A green and yellow 7 spotted in Hawkinge yesterday, two up and I think P reg. Piers

I think the TR7 manual maybe sold to Steve. These manuals sell at around £50 each, so I am asking £40 each plus post and packing. The Service manual for the Matchless 350 & 500 is a rare jem and in excellent condition. It belonged to my father. £30 plus post and packing. It was re-published in 1976 by Bruce Main-Smith Ltd. Piers

A brief update. I found my son's old school laptop (he is now 32 years old) and this had Windows 2000 and an RS232 output and this evening, I downloaded Easimap 5.5 and it is working. The battery has had it, but once connected to the car and working,I will get a replacement battery. I have one of my technicians making up a lead for me to the exact specification on SBD's web site. Hopefully that will be here in a few days. So slow progress but I am getting there. It is a real shame as I have really lost the use of the 7 this year and only used the car for the IOW Blat Piers

I have had these for at least 30 years and they are genuine Lotus workshop manuals. If any one is interested please let me know. I have: Lotus Esprit Workshop manual, part number A079TO327Z and dated 1979. Lotus Elite and Eclat Workshop manual A075TO327Z dated 1979 TR7 Autobook 891. Owners Workshop manual Matchless 350 & 500 Service Series Manual The Lotus manuals are grubby but complete. They were used by the company mechanic to maintain company cars - those were the days. Piers

Revilla - I have a standard wiring loom and the 7 is a standard R300 with no modifications. Piers