andy oliver
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Everything posted by andy oliver
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Many thanks, I'll give it a try.
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During a race my car developed a bad missfire at anything over about 3000 rpm under load. Out of gear it revved freely. When missfiring the tacho would flick to zero. The battery is fully charged. The engine is pretty standard with Lumenition ignition. Any suggestions gratefully received. Thanks.
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Well it's working now, and you were absolutely right about it being something silly - me !. It seems that black wires don't necessarily always go to the negative terminal !. Many thanks again.
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Will do. Looking at the above it appears that the brown one should be supplying 12v to the switch. I can't see a fuse for it anywhere. Many thanks.
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All wiring to battery seems OK. I have been over it with a multimeter and there is no continuity between any of the wires going into the ign. switch and the +ve terminal on the battery, which seems odd.
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Tried to start car and it would barely crank. Battery is pretty old so replaced it with new fully charged one. The car is now stone dead electrically. There appears to be no power going to the ignition switch. The wires going into the switch are brown x 2 and brown/green on one terminal, white x 2 on another terminal, and black and red/white on the third terminal. Does anyone know which one of these is supposed to supply + 12v to the switch ?
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Thanks for the replies - I thought as much. As a matter of interest, are bikes emission tested for MOTs ?. If so, is there any reason why a standard bike engine in a car would have a problem ?
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I have just heard that a bike engined car does not have to meet the MOT emissions test for a car if the passenger seat is removed. This seems a little unlikely to me, can anyone shed any light on the matter
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O/T Renault Espace Gearbox (in a single seater)
andy oliver replied to Manxseven's topic in TechTalk
No relation, and can only dream of getting an FTD anywhere ! -
O/T Renault Espace Gearbox (in a single seater)
andy oliver replied to Manxseven's topic in TechTalk
You can't change the ratios and it has synchromesh. -
This looks really interesting. Is there any chance you could write up how you fitted them in Blatchat ?
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They also seem to require the heatshield for the MOT test
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Thanks Mav, in that case it's 3.75"
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If they are slicks they are probably from a FF Zetec, the 1600s use treaded tyres. I have a FF Zetec and the wheel studs are 67mm apart. I'm afraid I don't know how to measure pcd but if someone tells me how I'll go and do it. If it's the diameter of the stud pattern, that is 3.75" Edited by - andy oliver on 8 Oct 2006 13:44:14
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Edited by - andy oliver on 19 Sep 2006 17:53:07
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Many thanks again Jimmy, please try andrewcoliver@hotmail.com rgds Andy Edited by - andy oliver on 10 Sep 2006 09:06:06
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That's interesting Jimmy, any chance you could e - mail me your map anyway as it's probably a good starting point. I assume you have to fit a catalyst as well. For the record I e-mailed Dave Walker and got a very prompt and helpful reply with very similar suggestions to those above. ( I particularly like V500SVs idea but I suppose I should try it the legit way!) Many thanks again to all for the advice. Andy Edited by - andy oliver on 8 Sep 2006 13:22:39 Edited by - andy oliver on 8 Sep 2006 13:23:36
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Many thanks for all of the above, I think I'll try the reprogrammed emerald route. Would anyone happen to know the required numbers for emissions on this car and how one might measure them without repeatedly booking MOTs ?
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My 2000 1.8 VHPD K failed the MOT on emissions. It was running the factory MEMS ECU and a catalyst - the same set up as when it was SVAd. It failed on CO2. It normally runs on an Emerald ECU tuned by Dave Walker but wont pass like this even with the catalyst. Would it be possible to run a program in the Emerald that would be well under the CO2 limit at the 2500 - 3000 rpm required, it wouldn't matter if it was hardly driveable as it only has to get to the MOT station and back. For the record the MEMS wouldn't allow the engine to run with no load at 3000rpm, from tickover any throttle at all sent it over 3000. Any suggestions welcome as I'm stumped . Many thanks
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Thanks Peter, will try all of the above.
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Many thanks Myles,you don't happen to havre aphone number for Powervamp by any chance ?
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My race car has a Red Top gel battery which goes steadily flat when the car is driven despite the alternator providing a good 13,5v at the battery terminals. Strangely, this eventually causes the engine to stop as though the battery is preventing the alternator output reaching the engine electrics (1.8 Zetec). The engine will only then run with extenal power connected. Do gel batteries have a failure mode which could cause a high enough resistance to prevent the alternator from keeping the engine running ?. Any suggestions gratefully received as I'm rather baffled.
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Failing the above it may be the throttle position sensor. I've just had to replace one, it's 2 screws and costs £35. You can test the old one with a multimeter .There should be a linear increase in resistance as you turn the spindle.
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If you are near Caterham take it to Robe and Hitchens in Coulsdon, the guys there are both Caterham owners and very helpful. They get my car through which is always a bit tight on emmissions. If your car is unmodified I wouldn't worry too much.
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Sounds like the seal in (probably)the master cylinder may be leaking. They are easily replaced. You might try bleeding it first in case some air has got in.