Mike Farmer

BTTT. Price is £7,250 Or Near Offer - hint! I'm happy to negotiate..........within reason.

Graham, 1. You can drive any vehicle up to 3500 Kg MAM as well as pulling a trailer up to 750 Kg MAM. 2. If you tow a trailer more than 750 Kg MAM - then the combined weight of vehicle and trailer must not exceed 3500 Kg MAM. However, you cannot tow a 2500 Kg trailer with a 1000 Kg car for obvious road safety reasons. The rule then becomes that the trailer must not exceed the UNLADEN weight of the car. The reason for this change from MAM to UNLADEN weight is that there are two sets of regulations in play. The first is the DRIVING LICENCE regs and the second is CONSTRUCTION AND USE regs which tends to make it quite confusing as evidenced by this thread. Clear as mud? Mike.

Graham, Where the MAM of the towing vehicle does not exceed 3500Kg you can tow 750 Kg. You can tow MORE than 750 Kg IF the MAM of the combination does not exceed 3500Kg. Therefore, with the Landrover at 3500 Kg MAM, you can NEVER tow more than 750 Kg on a B licence. Is that better?

With just a B licence you can drive: Motor vehicles with a MAM not exceeding 3500kg having not more than eight passenger seats with a trailer up to 750kg. Combinations of towing vehicles in category B and a trailer, where the MAM of the combination does not exceed 3500kg and the MAM of the trailer does not exceed the unladen mass of the towing vehicle. The key here is "not exceeding 3500 Kg MAM". Therefore, you can drive the landrover because it does not exceed 3500 kg MAM + a trailer not exceeding 750 Kg MAM. Thus, the MAM for the whole lot is 4250 Kg. You can only tow a trailer exceeding 750 Kg if the MAM of the whole lot does not exceed 3500 Kg MAM. Such as a car with a MAM of 2000 Kg + a trailer of 1200 Kg making a train weight of 3200 Kg. This is why most small commercial vehicles are given a MAM of 3500 Kg including Landrover. Hope this helps.

Thanks all. Some good stuff there . Mike.

Thanks Bri. Mike.

Seeking help from BlatChat. My son in law is currently building a double garage (whoopee!) and it will have a flat roof sloping from the front to the rear. The walls are well on the way up but he is not sure of the best material to use on the roof. Any ideas out there or has anyone had a bad/good experience with roofing materials? Thanks in advance.

Lightweight YHM Mike.

BTTT. Any takers??

I have been bitten by the sporting trials bug. However, my finances don’t run to a 7 as well as a sporting trials car so, regretfully, I must part with my 7. Details are: Standard 1700 Xflow (135 bhp). Registered in 1988 on a Q plate. 14,300 miles. Ital axle. 5 speed box. Clams. Yellow and aluminium. 14 inch yellow and alloy Revolution wheels. Full hood + bag and tonneau cover. Heated screen. Heater. Immobiliser. Leather seats. 20A power socket on dash for Sat Nav etc. Under dash handbrake. 11 months on tax and MOT. Spare 4 speed box Spare throttle and clutch cables. I’ve had her for 3 years and she is in very good condition for her age. Other than routine maintenance, the only problem I experienced was a misfire which was solved by a new coil and set of HT leads. The CRB was replaced 18 months ago. This is an ideal entry level car, simple mechanics and easy to work on. I’m looking for £7,250 o.n.o. I live just North of Bristol and can e-mail photos to anyone who might be interested. I can be contacted on 07979 531 477.

Heading South towards Yate/Chipping Sodbury from A46 about 3.30 pm. I didn't get a chance to see model or reg no. Edited by - Mike Farmer on 18 Feb 2008 22:01:50

Mark, I got the wheel nuts you are looking for my Revolutions from Speed Shack - 01895 449066. They are 3/8 UNF with a 11/16 shank. Ordered over the phone and delivered the next day.

I have a 1988 Xflow and the battery sits on a plate resting on the bottom frame immediately in front of the passenger footwell. It is strapped in with an aluminium strap fixed to the front of the passenger footwell. The oil breather catch tank is fixed just above the battery. It is easy to access and remove and I have not (touch wood) experienced any problems with it being close to the exhaust (rear exit exhaust). Being very low down helps with the CG.

Jack and/or Chicken hawk, Thanks for that. When fitted, my heater had a 1/2 inch hose from the water pump to the heater and then another 1/2 inch hose from the heater to the cylinder head in the middle of the inlet manifold. I presume I can connect the hose from the water pump to the expansion tank and then from the expansion tank back into the "overflow" on the thermostat housing. I would then blank off the connection on the inlet manifold. Would this work? Also, any recommendations as to what size and make of expansion tank? Mike.

Michael (Mcalvert) - many thanks for the offer but I have decided to go without. However, if I find that I really am a wimp, I may well come back to you Chickenhawk - I have already got an aluminium blanking plate to cover the holes. I did have overheating problems until I flushed the system out. Now OK. It does leave a lot of space in front of the scuttle and I was thinking about using it for additional storage space for some extra tools - suitably secured.