DohNut

a set of oilskins and a gel saddle cover should cover it 😬

N

I know some people here have had "success" using a variable water pump speed to "control" temperature in an engine but it is fundamentally flawed when implemented as they suggest after removing the thermostat.

Firstly having the full engine and radiator loop in circulation all the time will increase warm-up times but more importantly the only response it has to an over-cooled engine is to slow the pump speed to a point where the EXIT temperature of the engine is OK, but the reduced pump speed means that the water entering the engine will have lingered in the radiator for longer and is now even colder giving a huge temperature gradient across the engine. 🙆🏻

If you leave in the thermostat and run the pump at constant speed (or maybe 80% speed during normal running and 100% when the fan kicks in) then I think it is an excellent idea.

Nick

It is not a recomendation I have really understood - but often you are often instructed to leave the fridge / dehumidifier un plugged for 24 hours before use. (after transport)

My best guess is so the refrigerant gas/liquid being allowed to drain back to the bottom of the system and ensure it has got rid of air bubbles etc

N

Bob

That looks to be what I have, or something very similar at least.

I does seem to be awfully complicated for what it does, but then I have never had a problem with it which is maybe what you are paying for.

Nick

I have got the twin cable underslung Weber linkage - fits fine but I dont know what number it is.

By definition everything should be in the same place as the carb setup

Nick

3 1/2 inches

I am not saying that size is everything.....

Phil

Do you have the ones with the bent sheet metal indicator holder or ones that rely on a plastic indicator pod?

I got some headlamp brackets (from peter T) that are the pod style but without the forward facing leg thus are universal fit.

The lamps do wobble with X-flow vibration ☹️

I am hoping it will be easy to make up a forward facing leg (strip of Alloy/steel) that bolts one end to the headlamp bolt and the other end to the suspension mount.

N

Or just keep putting the job off to a later date, then remove the engine, you'll find the oil comes out quite nicely that way.

N

And if you did follow Gambos advice, you can drive a Xflow for a summer and find that despite the age it is still fast and a good one sounds glorious with all the pops, bangs and flames that you could want.

Nick

Not unless you are running it off the back of the belt it will always turn the same way.

N

here

lighthound has a good reputation and in europe

here

Orb for hand crafted in Devon quality

Fired up my 1100+ lm bike light last night 😬 even at half power (600+lm) it did make me giggle 😳

Edited by - Doh!Nut on 24 Apr 2007 16:26:20

As suggested bottle or thick plastic bag to ease fitting.

Also grease the small end of the boot- not the end you hold onto.

The outer one I fitted inside out and popped the right way round once it was on.

I trust the request for a spanner is unrelated to the removal of driveshaft, as you dont need to touch it.

N

Plug a USB 2 thing into the USB port and if you get an error message "You have plugged a USB2 device into a USB1 slot please use a USB2.....etc"

if not then you probably have USB2

N

Pre - SVA is the date that you need to know

Which is 1997 sometime, ie before that, supplied with one or not, you dont need a CAT for the MOT.

Post SVA cars require the emissions test.

N

Bill Shurvington

You may find him on westfeilds site

n

I thought the +30 was 30 thousanths of an inch increase over standard nomimal bore. 🤔

Look at the engine number cast on the side of the block, it will have 711 as part of the number quite clearly.

N

No, not really

clearance may be an issue behind the seat base depending on seat and chassis

I transfered the bolt type plates from another harness when I changed my seat.

Nick

And have a look at SBD (amongst others) who do a swirl pot to allow you keep your carb fuel tank. (like mine)

I think there was a westfield project on the Emerald site that showed a good conversion.

Nick

Bogg Bros do some nice custom manifolds to mate bike throttle bodies to various engines

I am sure they would be able to knock you up something appropriate.

The hole in the bonnet would be in the wrong place (by 8cm) but you could try to get away without one, with the tilt of the engine and the extra width in the chassis further back.

Nick

Ultimately the requirement for SVA (and the MOT, although they are unlikely to be checked) is the bottom edge of the lights must be a certain distance above the ground. (I think it is 400mm)

As suggested I would get a cardboard template of the position from another car.

Nick

I use Richmond bridge garage who has been fine for me - but after my recomendation they failed Rogers

As I guess you are newish to Caterhams you may prefer to take it to James Whiting near ashford Middx who is a specialist and will get it done for you.

N

I guess the engine internals are standard but with a proper exhaust and throttle bodies and ecu re-map could explain the output

N

Cheers all

Will try to find a sharp drill around 2.5mm metric or otherwise.

Thx Foxy will have another go at the first tutorial

Nick

PS

Is anyone good with sketchup?

I want to rotate a section about an axis to create a solid - like an eggcup shape

Nick