7 wonders of the world

Good reminder on that little R clip, 

whilst your in the area, its also worth replacing the R clip in the clutch pedal clevis pin too 

I would look at the clutch opertion first if all changes are affected first

Unless you have a level datum form which to measure you are guessing.

I suggest you mark the floor with the cars footprint then using a long bubble (or box section with a short bubble) with two identical rests to measure from (I use the tops from cans of brake cleaner measure front rear side to side and the corners you can then find the low corners and make some simply square floor shims from 6mm ply, mark them all once you have a level platform so you know what goes where next time.

Set the car on these with a plastic carrier bag with a little soap or silicone grease inside under each wheel to act as slip plates, ballast the car with driver, speed limiter and fuel as required for road or track and now you have a know level datum from which to measure.

Thanks James,

I've heard of many getting the numbers after investing in a mapping session, what were you numbers on the first dyno run before Steve got to work rounding up the stray ponies..?

Proptech should also be mounted the conventional way up to as there are a twin tube design and can cavitate is run inverted. 

I would say yours is easily equal if not better than a R500D James, Taking into account the approximate run down calc and assuming the altitude correction,

I have yet to see a dyno print of a R500D giving the claimed 263 in 'factory trim',  probably leaving myself open here... lets see if anyone can post one....

Calibration and certification by the manufacturer and not the user is pretty standard.. It's in there interest to be accurate. No manufacturer wants to gain a reputation for telling porkies

WHP is what you see however you can accurately measure the losses on run out in order to gain accurate flywheel figures useful for comparing to the figures provided by vehicle manufacturers for instance it takes the guesswork out of comparisons

Gear choice and tyre pressure can always influence readings though single rollers are less susceptible to variations.  

If you leave with better numbers and better driveabilty than when you arrived you've had a good day... 

Were both failures on the same side..? 

Any witness marks inside the joint indicating bottoming put etc

They are GKN units so a decent drive haft propshaft place should be able to obtain them... 

Be interesting to see if these wr genuine GKN tripods r pattern aftermarket versions. 

AFAIK the joints have been pretty reliable the only upgrade was fro 420 race cars who were breaking tha actual. Shaft bar when warming the tyres.. and upgrade TTV bars are now used with stock joints. 

Best usuaful to find part numbers for inner and out joints for both Ford and BMW final drives. 

I will try my prop shift guy later on. 

Hi Simon,

1999 S3 no problem at all

Boing....

R888R's fit fine under my race stay mounted on 6.5" Revolution race rims 

Update:

Pump and cradle provisionally sold to Bill - pending payment

Tank provisionally sold to Colin  - pending payment

Elliott - if tank sales falls thro - its yours

Lovely car James,

Found the price  that's a very keen price for a car that looks better than new, for what is a rare and sort after car....

I'm sure you told me you were keeping this one..... you know you will regret selling it..

S3 K series fuel tank 2000 miles old £150

Uprated R500K fuel pump Ti Automotive (new name for Walbro) GSS340 with centre pick up and spring loaded circular prefilter 2000 miles £55

Rover Metro intank pump cradle no longer available used but in good working order £50

All prices plus shipping

or collect from North Herefordshire

Lizzybus, if you have an imperial chiassi which you do and have the pinch bolt on the upper chassis rail just under the nose cone then these will fit, 

BM me a photo is you like and I will help you sort this one out

silicone grease on the mating face of the wheel to the hub or drive flange to prevent galvanic corrosion is fine,

Wheel stud threads should be clean and dry, if you add lubrication you should multiply the torque data used by circa 0.8 to prevent over tightening tightening beyond the yield point.

bear in mind that this material conducts electricity and it not secured it can and does vibrate free and cause a short - I would look at a proper heat shield 

Academy version

Rear noises from the rear end... Check the front radius arm mounts these often work loose cap head is access from the inside and partially hidden by the seat. 

Hi James, 

this can be an issue as an heat soak on the inlet, I place my sensor between 1 & 2 on the upper portion of the backplate to catch the airstream isolated on thick fibre washers in an oversized holed, I have also used a 7mm phenolic spacer between the head and the manifold which makes a significant difference to the temperature of the entire inlet tract.

When i get a new infa red thermometer i will give you some numbers both running and after heat soak when stood

Which cage are these for please...? 

Check the loom at the fuel pump they go hard and crispy and the connections on the connector there to the short pump lead. 

the bonzes versions need a gentle squeeze on the lower tangs - easy to do, pop it on, rotate 180, gentle squeeze, rotate back180, smear of lube, fit gear lever then blat

I have some excellent components for sale, Crank, Flywheel, clutch, head, cams etc