MikeE
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Posts posted by MikeE
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That looks tighter than mine. Just to be clear I bought a tonneau without doors and made it fit a pair of soft half doors. The half doors are very tight down the bottom between side skin and cage BUT you can take the black domed top off the popper to reduce the gap needed quite significantly - Rob would suggest you give that a go before removing the cage to repack with washers, the first will take two minutes, the second options 2 hours!
Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures
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another thumbs up for an Ammo (RaceCo) 2.3l 265bhp Duratec with 5 speed Quaife box in my R400 which comprehensively leaves R500Ds with 6 speed sequentials in its wake 😳
Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures
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I've got a tonneau and soft half doors on my R400 with SLR cage and they were bought to fit the cage and so the doors have cut outs around the lower cage mounting points, other than that I imagine its the same as the standard one. With the poppers for the lower section of the doors these will just squeeze throught the gap between the body and cage.
Take a look here
Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures
Edited by - MikeE on 6 Jul 2010 15:41:45
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Matthew I'd like the £50 set if still available but I'm in Fleet, Hampshire which is J4a of the M3. Is there areway to get them close to me and I could meet you?
thanks,
Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures
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I replaced my battery with Ian Hs Banner and it started on the button no problems at all. So I now know it's a straightforward battery change and nothing more complex to diagnose.
Thanks for all the offers of help everyone
Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures
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Thanks for the offers everyone, Ian H in Farnborough is loaning me his Banner tonight so this will definitely tell me if its my battery or something else at fault (or both!) so I'll update tomorrow.
Assuming its the battery I was planning to get a Powervamp 25 and mount it flat but see on their site they also do the Odessey Extreme 25 which is based on the same battery but has some anti-vibration casing. Anyone any idea which would be best for a track focused 7?
Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures
Edited by - MikeE on 26 May 2010 12:09:58
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I've been having problems starting my Duratec (i.e it won't) and its been suggested the battery is at fault however I've invested in an Accumate 4 which is telling me the battery is in good condition So either there's another fault or the battery is actually shot.
The easiest way to prove the problem is to try starting it with a battery which is klnown to be good so if anyone wouldn't mind loaning me their battery just to try starting the 7 I'd really appreciate it. I'm in Fleet in Hampshire, just off J4a of the M3.
Thanks!
Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures
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Tony those sound like the right size. Can you let me know how much tread is left on them and how much you want for them. As you probably realise I'm in fleet (Elvetham Heath). If easier then give me a call on 07940 499924
cheers
Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures
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Thats a possibility for the MOT but I do occassionally use the 7 on the road and also take the road tyres to trackdays in case of rain. So don't want to splash out £600 for a new set when they'll last me 6 years again like this set did!
Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures
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A friend of mine has the new R500D with Quaife sequential and we did a trackday a month ago. I was stood by my car when he came into the pits and I was amazed how noisy his gearbox was from the outside, and thats compared to my straighcut 5 speed which I thought was noisy.
Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures
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R500 size, just need to be road legal fopr MOT.
thanks
Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures
Edited by - MikeE on 20 May 2010 10:35:31
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Danny, I spoke to Ammo about the 2.2l before I decided on the 2.3l so I thought you might say that!
Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures
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Danny
How many different capacities have you had and what were their peak power and torque figures?
Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures
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Over the last 6 months my Duratec has developed a problem when trying to start it. Initially I thought it was just a symptom of the car not being used much and the battery going flat but having tried charging it a number of times I don't think it is this.
The symptoms are that the fuel pump starts spinning at what sounds like the right rate but when I press the starter I either get a half hearted attempt by the starter which then gives up or the starter seems to engage but then do nothing. The strange thing is after a second or two of struggling to turn at all it will then sometimes just fire up?? Last time I had to use jump leads from the tin top then it fired up just fine
Any ideas?
Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures
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Hi Simon
I just rejoined blatchat for first time in 3 years or so. I also need a set of CR500s to get me through my MOT in May having destroyed my current CR500s at Odiham airfield 2 weeks ago (because I got a puncture in a slick so was forced to use my road tyres).
Anyway the reason for saying all that is I wondered if you were in the same boat, just need to make up a set to get through an MOT, as I may have a couple of serviceable ones out of the set so maybe we could make up a set between us Also I believe you must live very close to me (I'm in Elvetham Heat, Fleet)?
cheers
R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures
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Oh and Brnet, Nicks suggestion sounds sensible, I know Peter told me years ago that the standard Duratec pump is overly efficient and so will drain the sump very quickly. As I said the other day I had problem with my Pace dry sump where oil was 'dissapearing' in the engine at higher revs and this was eventually solved by running the windage plates very close to the crank.
So given both ot the above I think the Duratec might be prone to being slow to return oil to the sump and an overactive pump just highlights this? Who knows 😬
R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures
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If you want to get 280bhp+ from your Duratec then you need to go to someone whoc can supply all the kit necessary not just the engine, i.e you'll need an exhaust that's tuned to your engine - without it you're probably not going to harness the full potential of the engine.
To my knowledge there's currently only one supplier who can provide the engine and ancillaries required and that aint Cosworth
R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures
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what system you are you installing Brent and which tank (where is it located)?
Peter @ Raceline told me to check mine when the hoils hot and at tickover....
R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures
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Cheques payable to D. Luhde-Thompson.
Ammo I would never have guessed without the above 'slip up' 😬
R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures
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I went out in Danny's car at Brands too and I'm not convinced he knew what he was doing either..................... Calm down now Danny just joking 😬
R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures
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Race*** 2.3l Duratec, approx 280bhp/215lbft
R&R type-9 straight 5 speed
2.66 1st, 0.86 5th
3.92 diff
13" * 8" ACB10 for track, for road 205/55 CR500
R400 Duratec Build and Modification Pictures
Edited by - MikeE on 14 Jan 2008 17:58:54
Wheres best to buy a circa 250 BHP Duratec from? and a few other related questions..
in TechTalk
Posted
Jason yes from new in 2004 I installed a 226bhp raceline 2.0l and ran that for a couple of years before deciding I wanted a 280bhp 2.3l which Ammo built for me. Both were/are cracking engines. I recently did an airfield day with an R500D driving friend and my car with a 15 stone passenger effortlessly out dragged the R500 from 50-145mph
Duratec R538 Build and Modification Pictures
here