techbod

Hard to be 100% as the nearest lighting was a distance away and it was otherwise dark, but I'm fairly sure it was orange, can't remember about aero though - brain still a bit frazzled..

R400 *** parked in the muddy car park for Arnage curve on Saturday night about 11pm.

N450 ***, heading from Coventry towards Kenilworth about 12 midday.

Approx 11:15 Sunday morning entering Kenilworth from the Coventry side, on the torch relay route. Yellow nose and wings with Ali bodywork. Been out on theWarks Blatters 3 hills jolly perhaps?

Thanks for the enquires, this is now sold. Apologies to those that didn't get a chance to buy it.

Ivaan - thanks for letting me know. Tim you right - Rik's email arrived in inbox first place. Rik - can you email me your phone number - it appears my emails still aren't getting through. Thanks

Thanks for the replies and questions. Rik - you have email Ivaan - I have used it as a basic sat nav, though with something like google maps you have to be very careful with phone charges as it will download data as it goes. There are other offline android apps that you can download to turn it into a better sat nav but I've not tried any so can't vouch for how well they work. Tbird - dibs noted Thanks Edited by - techbod on 27 Jun 2012 17:51:36

I thought I would see if this was of any interest to any blatchatters before putting it on ebay. Viewsonic Viewpad 7 android tablet. 10 months old and in good, but not mint condition. Equipped with 7" capacitive screen, 3G, Wi-Fi and GPS . Should work on any network - I have used it with Orange and o2. If you are interested please look up the specs and reviews online to make sure you are aware of its pros and cons - its not a multi-core, multi media all singing and dancing ipad replacement, but good for email, browsing etc on the move, and allot more pockatable (just about) than the 10" variants. Viewsonics' page here might be a good start Comes with original leatherette type case, box, power supply, instructions and whatever else was in the box when I bought it. You will need your own microSD card I can take pictures if required. Any questions please feel free to drop me a line. £90 plus p&p

J15 Southbound M40 about 10.35ish. Red 7 with red sports type bag on rear cover/spare wheel. Half hood up. GJ02 *** if I remember correctly. Followed you down to about J9 where you left the motorway.

Is the outer end of the accelerator cable still seated correctly (at the carb end) in the little bracket? I had an issue where the cable had pulled out of the little bracket with the result it wasn't seating properly and the engine was idling at about 2000rpm. (Nothing had fallen off mind you, so it might be different in your case.)

Yellow with green nose band, Coventry ring road/ station junction approx 3:30. Couldn't quite see reg plate but looked like it had 07 in it.

Mon 5pm roof up, on the A423 towards Princethorpe, just by the flattened old Peugeot / Rootes factory site. Not exactly sure of colour, darkish is the best I can manage.

Thanks for the replies. My battery is in the original location under the carbs - the cable is too short to reach round to the passenger side of the car. I have 2 earth straps - there is the one that goes from the bell housing top right-most bolt to the chassis by the master brake cylinder (this is the open pedal box chassis). This wasn't removed during the rebuild. The second strap is from the battery, and thats the one that was removed and I can't quite remember where it went! I'll check and see if the cable can reach the bell housing which sounds like will give me the same earth layout as Molecular Bob.

After a winter rebuild the engine is back in but since its been a few months, I've forgotten where the battery earth lead is supposed to connect to? (the other end from the battery obviously ) Can anyone enlighten me? Thanks.

Thanks for the replies - very much appreciated. The movement is more than just perceivable - for want of a better description you can 'click' the valves from side to side quite noticeably. It may be the reason I'm getting oil collecting in the combustion bowl, most noticeably of piston #1. (Rings/bores being checked as well). The machine shop is proposing using bronze guides and then re-cutting the seats. Judging by the large number of heads being dropped off and picked up this is something they do day in and day out. I'm probably being a touch disingenuous calling them a machine shop, they only do engine work and having asked them lots of dumb questions, their advice seemed to match, so fingers crossed and I've handed over the head to them to sort out. cheers.

Winter refresh got to dealing with the head now. All the valves (inlet and outlet) have side to side play in the guides - am I right in thinking that there should be none, even when cold, and the guides need replacing? I know the guides run in the head, but local machine shop have given a reasonable quote on fitting inserts into the head.

I've only seen a couple of pre-lit Westfield in the flesh, so I don't know if this is true for all of them, but the thing that stood out as being different from the Caterham was both had a square transmission tunnel. The car the OP linked to has the rounder Caterham style tunnel.

I'm putting new rings in the xflow, after 10000 miles since the last rebore and rebuild, the engine is exhibiting signs of piston ring wear - so I'm told by those who know. The new rings from Burtons are +090 AE Federal-Mogul replacing the original AE ones, but oil scraper rings are of a complete different design. The old oil ring is a 3 part affair, thin ring top and bottom and the 'box' section in the middle. This means the parts could be oriented so that the gaps in each aren't above each other. The new ring is a 2 pieces, basically a spring in a grooved channel (looks like this one here. Clearly this will always have a gap. The question is - is this an improved design or am I replacing the rings with a cheaper that-will-do job, or does it make no difference?

All white caterham at Gibbet Hill on the road from from Warwick uni, then turned left towards Coventry at about 2:15 this afternoon. Waved from the mx5 on the other side.

Red with clamshells, reg started C77. Just pulling up into the car park at Race Retro on Sat about 11:30ish.

Thanks for the replies and the very kind offer I''m hopefully being lent a cylinder bore measuring gadget so I can make sure its all within spec and then its order some rings from Burtons and fingers crossed....

Engine apart, everything looks ok so assuming the bore wear is permissible when measured, the plan is to de-glaze and fit new rings. Looking through the archives a 240 grit flexhone seems to be the tool of choice. What size flexhone should I be getting? My bores (+0.090) are approx 83mm, so is the 'up to' 83mm size flexhone going to do the job ok? The next size up is 89mm which seems a bit big. Also abrasive type, I seem to have the choice of Silicon carbide, Aluminium oxide, Boron Carbide and Tungsten carbide - I assume not one of the last 2. Finally anyone got a favoured UK supplier they can recommend, most on ebay seem to be shipped from the US. Thanks.

I went to them to try and find some replacement drums for my Ital rear axle. They didn't manage to find any but they did have a good go and trying to find something alternative, were friendly and helpful - why not phone them and ask for the hub offset? I'm sure they might oblige.

I'll have these please: Head gasket set CC DJ 202 - £20.00

I've not tried it on anything galvanised, but I have used lots of it on a mild steel (and rust) camper van. So far its been good and kept recurrence of rust away where it was applied. Its a bit too early to say if its been better than other products, but so far its been as good as its reputation might suggest.