-
Posts
1,050 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Blatmaps
Speed Championship Results
News
Website Help
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by Gordon C
-
-
I have the smallest of oil weeps from the end plate on my xflow oil pump !
I'm after an internal oil seal.......anyone know the part number of said seal ?
Looked through the Burton catalogue but can't see anything for looking.
High Pressure Pump p/n FP201A by the way
-
Std 7" lamp i have a 3mm hex on mine
-
Johnathan, can't see any mention of bolt size in the manual i'm affraid. Just mentions torque figures
-
As per Haynes Manual Clutch pressure plate.......13 to 15 lbft
-
Annoyingly my gear knob used to work loose as well. Top of gear lever had seen better days so cutting a thread wasn't an option.
I went down the route of drilling and tapping some small Allen type grub screws around lower part of the knob and partly drilling into the gear lever. Zero chance of the gear knob now working loose or at worse coming off. Sleeve supplied with gear knob slides and screws over the top of grub screws so you would never know they where there
-
And i have a Ratrace creation.......runs beatifully on Millers CTV 20w 50 compitition oil semi synthetic. Add a shot of Camshield ZDDP for good measure
-
Sorry, can someone sort out a linky? Still finding this new forum very awkward ti use from mobile device, which is where I did most Blatchatting for last 8 years.
-
-
-
Quoting 7 wonders of the world:A 6" rim will happily seat a 185/60x13 on the front with an 8" taking a 205/60x13 at the rear
Graham, the way i read that is..........
6" will happily take 185/60/13
&
8" will happily take 205/60/13
-
Roger, thank you. Thought you where go to say that
7 Wonders, sump pan appears to be in good shape however worth a tickle if need be. Thanks.
-
Well i was beginning to think i was missing something. Split plate yes All the bolts accounted for and easily removable with the tooling i have. Thanks guys
Roger, thanks. competition gaskets it is
One last thing.....How would you recommend assembly of competition seals ?
a) Dry
b) Jointing compound ie Hylomar
c) Light film of engine oil
I thank you
-
Looking in the latest Burton catalogue i see there are two oil sump gasket sets mentioned for a 1970 xflow onwards
What appears to be the standard sump gasket set if you like comprises of rubber end seals...retail £7.75
and a second gasket set as per the above design but made of competition material...retail £11.75
Question....what is the material used that now makes this 2nd seal a competition seal ?
Designed to cope with the increased engine temperatures of a competition engine i guess ?
And another question / observation
My xflow a Ratrace build is weeping oil oh so slightly from the sump area. They all do that you say. Well mine didn't and although i am in no hurry to take the sump off i will do it over the winter period
Now then, unless i am missing something here i have counted 18 bolts that hold the sump on. 9 on the right & 9 on the left running front to back. Everyone of which by the way i can get to easily with the tooling i have available.
Release all 18 bolts and sump drops out right ?
Reason i ask is i read in a previous 2007 thread that the oil pick up prevented the sump from dropping down and said pick was then removed in this instance to enable removal of sump
Really ? Am i missing something here ? Am i over simplifying the job ?
Having got a copy of a Haynes manual, Fords Kent xflow engine rebuild and tuning book and a few magazine cuttings from way back this all appears pretty straight forward to me.
oooooor am i really missing something ?
Thoughts if you please
-
Quoting Aeroscreens:You need one of these
Never had a problem since i changed over to the CBS switch. That said have now taken original switch apart and cleaned with a switch lub. Works beautifully on the bench. Hoping never to use it again mind
-
Wheel bearing kit please
Thanks.
-
07 FUN spotted just gone four this afternoon
-
Following me into Chailey village in my girlfriend's red MX5 around 16:00 hrs a Blue with white stripe
-
Use a hilok fastener from the aviation industry and you will be able to carry out full adjustment of mirrors without removing stanchion assembly or drilling scuttle to access back of bolts.
Hiloks in this case are counter sunk heads with 1/16" allen key drive in the tip to stop rotation
Used a 10-32UNF bihex nut to complete assembly. Used what we call a repair washer underneath nut to take up the csk in Brooklands mount. Not really needed but as an aircraft engineer I am probably fussier than most
-
Seen with the corner of my eye BRG ( i think ) twin yellow stripes at 1730 heading towards Crooked Billet
-
Cheque posted, email received. See you at Brands
-
Try greasing up your prop shaft universal joint. Probably isn't but worth doing all the same to eliminate that.
-
I ditched the cork style gasket some years ago for the one supplied by James Whiting. Not so much as a weep out the rocker cover. Can be used many times over
-
Go on then i will take the half doors if you please
-
Can't keep up with you Craig. 45's one minute Jenveys the next
Interesting all the same.
And are we having switchable maps ?
xflow oil pump......end plate leak
in TechTalk
Posted
Baz, thanks. Forgot about these guys. Email sent