jonboylaw

Clean the outside of the casing thoroughly and then use dry kitchen roll or toilet paper stuffed down the sides and back. After a day or so take it out carefully and where you see the oil on the paper, there is your leak source.

Edited by - jonboylaw on 14 Jun 2011 11:05:19

That is a bizare set of symptoms.. It would have had me gonig for ages looking for that one...

Glad you got it fixed.

So who bought that Raceline kit off ebay then????

Same as Aeroscreens, tap the split pin through, just enough.... I think I used a bodkin needle.

I bought a couple of Weber Carb Services kits off ebay (complete with needle valves) when I did mine.

The skin is VERY soft and thin, so a dremmel type tool will work, then a file and sand paper to clean up. Be careful as it is very easy to cut too far.....

Lots of masking tape and cereal boxes taped on will help, but just take your time.

Edited by - jonboylaw on 13 Jun 2011 16:09:50

I am not familiar with TBs so please excuse this.

Check where the outer sleeve is anchored, both on the TB and the pedal box ends. It might have come unseated at the TB end when the cable popped off.

You may have a short at the back of the dash. Get your head under the dash and look at the rev counter connectors and those on the altenator warning light to see if there is anything obvious.

Edited by - jonboylaw on 13 Jun 2011 13:04:57

If you do decide to pull the Axle case out, you do not need 2x the width. As you extract it from the passenger side you can walk it forward to get an angle on it. Just watch for the fuel line and tank.

Removing with diff in place is a heavy affair, far easier is to drain the oil (undo prop, plug out and jack the diff node and leave for a few hours), then pull the 1/2 shafts until they clear the diff, then take the diff out. It weight a fair bit, but is manageable with a bit of help.

I have some Caterham ones going spare after my conversion to Arnies top links. Only done a couple of 100 miles.

Needle valve is stuck by the look of it. Did you replace them?

Cheers Volker, that looks a good deal...

I will watch with interest.

The Ones from Kitparts (ebay) are genuine Ford deliveries with certificates of newness with them.

Cheers Chris,

I will take lots of photos of your car when you come up, so be prepared to strip!! 😬

Jon

Thanks guys,

I'm just trying to get my head around all the requirements for the Blacktop over the silvertop.

Also breather boxes etc...

The Quote I got for the Blacktop was from the ebay guy, but without having to go through the aution etc....

For a Zetec-R (Blacktop)

Any advice on the Sump requirements. I see the raceline offering but that is a major cost, what alternatives are out there? Also on the alternator and waterpump fittings for a Blacktop, is there anything special required here. Finally the water-rail, I do not have a heater fitted so any advice on an alternative to the raceline would be appreciated.

Blacktop crate engine is priced at £735 + £15 delivery.

Yes, this is the area, so just make sure that they do not "oversize" the exhaust ports on the manifold too much else you will never get a good seal, even with the copper gaskets. Take the gaskets with you so they can see the max bore they need on the manifold.

Jon

Finny,

Fill the boot space with cement bags for traction ;)

Jon

Go for the 7 inch..

You will probably find that the induction noise will then become the biggest problem :)

Also make sure the manifold fitting gives a good pinch on the exhaust gasket to avoid it blowing, this can add a lot of high pitched output..

HI,

Any chance I can get a copy of your MAP and engine spec? I am probably booking mine in for a RR session late next week.

Cheers Les.

Hi Ben,

Did you get my BM about payment and address ?

Anyone got the box section fixings for tillet seats? I am looking for a pair for fitting a W1i seat.

Cheers,