jonboylaw

I use these as well.

Why not mail Brent P at autosportlabs and ask if he has a copy, else post up on the user forum there.

Earliest version I have is 3.x

Yes, it is possible but you will need to remove the front bush mount for the bottom wishbone. This was modified to be a captive bush and bolt in later WBs.

There is a kit to convert the top link to wishbone that you will need to use for anchoring the front of the new top wishbone. If you are running vertical links with trunnions, then you will need to buy new ones that are trunnionless to fit the later bottom WT wishbones. Canely Classics were cheapest when I did this here.

As Pugwash says, go and ask your local council if they have any lock-ups available. Mine is <£30 a month and keeps the car nice and dry.

Live axle cage has a flat rear mounting plate that bolts to the top of the turret. I believe the dedion one protrudes down into the turret.

I am sure you could modify either to get them working.

Ha ha, I remember sitting in my Electrical Field exams watching everyone doing the 3 finger spread..

I think it goes as follows:

ThuMb is Motion

First finger is Field

SeCond finger is Current.

This one may help a little if you can zoom in a bit.

here

http://thumb0.webshots.net/t/96/96/8/60/29/2197860290103159900YBMDBt_th.jpg

Use a digital camera and take lots of pictures... I mean lots.. of all the bolts, washer locations etc. Wiring connectors and pipe routing etc. Freezer bags and a sharpie pen to label everything and some stacking storage boxes to keep it in, with contents lists on them.

You will also need some nitrile gloves (a couple of boxes), old paint brushes and lots of white spirit (for de greasing and general gunk removal, plus some tubs to put things in as you clean them.

I replaced all the high tensile bolts so make a list of the ones required and get them before you start.

Engine hopist and stand are really useful as well as good work lights.

They are very simple to strip and re-build so long as you are methodical and keep all bits together.

Stripping will take about 3 weekends.

Re conditioning and cleaning parts... depends on what you want to do but can be a while!

Re-build is around 4 weeks of evenings and weekends, but that depends on your skill level and if you have other demands on your time.

My strip down:

here

Edit for spelling and bad link.

Jon

Edited by - jonboylaw on 10 Sep 2012 10:57:36

Edited by - jonboylaw on 10 Sep 2012 10:58:42

I guess nobody else finds him funny...

Have a BTT on me.

Mav,

I can't offer credit facilities :) However, I would take £275+ p&p

This really is a super lens and much better value than the updated F4 version as it is near identical performance. I will throw in lots of advice to the purchaser on how to get the best out of this lens.

Photos of the lens below:

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u432/jonboylaw/IMG_0316.jpg

http://i1067.photobucket.com/albums/u432/jonboylaw/IMG_0317.jpg

When I took my tank out I left about a quarter tank in, just disconnected the fuel out line, the sender connectors (battery disconnected 1st) and the fuel neck, covered the open pipes with tank tape and undid the retaining straps and off with the roll bar. Came out the top with out having to drain it.

Tank was then emptied into a couple of Jerry Cans and left to breath. I did blast some dry compressed air though it a little later to clear out the remaining fumes.

I can't advise this method, just that I have a low appreciation for risk.

When replacing, make sure the foam insulating strips are in decent condition and you might as well replace the fuel lines if they are more than a couple of years old.

J

double post....

Edited by - jonboylaw on 28 Aug 2012 10:19:26

Chris,

Did you get your mounts sorted out? I just bought some Jag rubbers off flea bay as they are the same. Also to stop the steering column vibrating off the DS pump, you need to put a washer or two between the mount and the rubber to cant the engine up slightly. Only needed on the offside though.

Regards to you and the family..

Jon

Edited by - jonboylaw on 28 Aug 2012 10:19:58

Hup, will be advertising in other places shortly.

Would consider ONO from a Blatchatter, PM me.

Jon

If anyone is interested, I have a set of Gaz adjustables and springs for a LA set up for sale. Would not be expensive, only done a few hundred miles.

I am now running AVO, 300lb front and 115lb rears, I have to keep the rear to the softest setting as the AVOs can be a little harsh.

91 views and no offers....

This is an awesome lens, in very good condition, with all the bits and bobs.

Here are a few examples of what it can do:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8308/7783681774_0260d9c3c2_z.jpg

St Peter's - Cardross by Normalisdull, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8294/7783625236_b2d6ea55c9_z.jpg

Polphail Village by Normalisdull, on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7108/7755617600_c7c3012c6a_z.jpg

Incongregate by Normalisdull, on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7098/7280960220_9f1bc1e13f_z.jpg

Bart Split toned by Normalisdull, on Flickr

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7098/7280942168_4aa4c088b2_z.jpg

IMG_9701 by Normalisdull, on Flickr

If the carbs were full of gunk then you might as well strip them down and inspect the jets, could be blocked.