John Reay

Hi Dave, Did you get the email re the Aldon Dizzy. I presume the Aldon dizzy has the modified advance weights and is suitable for side draught carbs and Kent BCF2, 234 cam etc. If so then I'm interested Can you let me know Cheers JOhn

Can anyone shed any light on a suitable adhesive for bonding some carbon fibre sheet to fibreglass for an undertray / venturi on my friends Quest single seater. Cheers John

Got an Ignitor on my X Flow. It really is a fit and forget. Used the car throughout the winter and didn't suffer starting issue. I also fitted the Aldon Flame Thrower coil at the same time. What I have noticed is better hot starting. John

Roger, does this apply if you have CVT? wink.gif JOhn

I've got all 3 of the Tamiya kits, the green/ali clamshell BDR, the carbon cycle wing BDR and the JPE. I bought the JPE from Japan and teh Carbon cycle wing from USA, both purchased via EBAY because I couldn't find them in UK. Each cost me approx £180 delivered. There is a JPE and a clamshell BDR on EBAY at the moment. John

Optimax may well give a higher level of clean, especially with all the detergents it is meant to contain wink.gif I'm not sure if Millers make CFL, Competition Foam Lubricant tongue.gif Personally I'd recommend using 95 UL unless you have a filter ECU which will correct the ignition curve to take advantage of the higher octane. I think you may be disappointed with the results if you have to go to Dave Walkers for a remap biggrin.gif biggrin.gif Seriously first of all I would give the filter a good vacuum and then wash from the inside out with petrol. Collect the washings and if you can filter them to remove the crud and continue re-using the petrol (well this is what I'd do but then again I am a Scotsman tongue.gif John

The other thing that the ITG site fails to mention is that if you decide to clean the foam using chemicals other than petrol is that you run the risk of breaking the PU foam cell structure down. Degradation of foam is commonplace if incorrect solvents are used and in the case of an airfilter the foam could be ingested into the engine. Secondly you may also break down the flame retardant chemical which is used in the manufacture if the foam. Common sense prevails when handling any chemical substance and petrol in occasional contact with skin will not do any harm. Prolonged exposure is a different matter. You should be more careful handling used engine oil as it carries a far higher percentage of potential carcinogens and mutagens which can be absorbed through the skin. Blatman, stick with petrol as the cleaner unless you know what type of foam it is eg ether or ester based, the polyol, catalyst, foam density, flame retardant chemical used etc etc John

Opps, Its actually www.itgairfilters.com. John

Hey Blatman, have a look at the ITG filter web site http://www.itgfilters.com. This is what they say CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE The filters can be cleaned using petrol to wash the dust out. After washing, allow the filter to dry and then re-coat with Dust Retention fluid. Take precautions against fire when using petrol! Do not use a filter until the petrol has dried off. The adhesives and materials used in the filters are petrol resistant, but the adhesives are not completely water-resistant. Washing in warm soapy water is tolerated, but the filter should not be soaked, and it should be shaken and allowed to dry quickly. The water encountered in normal use of the filter ie. rain, spray etc) has no damaging effect. We always recommend the use of Dust Retention Fluid, which is supplied in CFC free aerosol cans, Part No. JDR-1. The fluid gives a significant improvement in filtration efficiency, with a negligible reduction in air-flow capacity. Dust Retention fluid should be sprayed all over the outside and a little on the inside of the filter. The fluid has a white dye in it to help show where the filter is thoroughly coated. After spraying, 'massage' the fluid into the depth of the filter foam. HTH JOhn

I'd check the fuel pressure is not over-whelming the needle valves, you only need 3psi fuel pressure. Regulate the pressure with a fuel pressure regulator (funny that) John

I concur with Water Wetter reducing coolant temps, however I would be very very surprised if the chemistry is similar to washing-up liquid. Washing up liquid is mainly made from surfactants, either anionic or non-ionic and their primary job is to remove grease etc in washing up adn hold it in suspension. The liquid is 'charged' so you don't re-deposit the crud back onto the plate. There are no anti-corrosion inhibitors in washing up liquid. Thus using in your engine will cause problems because very washing up liquid is different As for Water Wetter I'd expect that to contain phosphonate chemistry. Phosphonates are designed to control scale formation, corrosion inhibition or sequester transition metal ions out of solution to stop them interfering in a reaction. However certain detergent formulations use phosphonate chemistry as a component. John

Got a thermal imaging camera in my tool box as well, everyone should have one tongue.gif I wouldn't worry, exhaust gas temps can reach 600C, so if the exhaust isn't glowing you ain't driving it hard enough biggrin.gif JOhn

Hey, maybe we can start up a clockwork ignition & carb club. idea.gif How about the Luddite Lotus 7 club wink.gif John

thumbsup.gif thumbsup.gif, thanks Steve, been thinking about buying one of these for ages, but found £40+ a bit steep. Got a crappy Gunson effort and have borrowed one of these Synchrometers, quick, simple and spot on results. Well worth buying one. Cheers JOhn

teeth.gifteeth.gif Not sure if you are aware Arnie but Kylie is in the latest issue of EVO. She's helping FORD in their promotion of the StreetKa. John