jradley

Hi, Just wondering what the purge valve actually does ? Reason for asking is that it seems to have two functional hoses - one going to the plenum and one going off under the transmission tunnel, presumably to the fuel tank ? Reason for asking is I'm thinking of replacing my plenum (the plastic type) but the one I got as a replacement is very slightly different to mine. The new one doesn't have a fitting for the hose from the purge valve. If I go ahead with the replacement, what am I supposed to do with the hose ? Cheers, John

Hi, I'm certainly interested but it is dependant on me finding out how much it will cost me to have a courier collect/deliver them, assuming you would be happy that arrangement. Will try and find out and will get back to you. Cheers, John

Hi, Having acquired a plemum to replace my temporarily repaired one, the time has come to fit it as I'm replacing coolant hoses and heater valve, which has sprung a leak. Just a couple of queries - is there any specific order the nuts have to be slackened/tightened and to what torque ? Also, the plenum I've got is in good shape but a bit grubby internally - any idea how best to clean it out before fitting ? Finaly am I right is thinking the correct gasket to use is the green one, not the black one ? (ie use part no. LKJ101110SLP) Cheers, John

Thanks Simon. Knowing what was needed helped a lot. I got this resolved now. I'm gobsmacked but buried at the very bottom of my toolbox was an ancient large allen key which I never knew I had - lo and behold, bolt removed :) Cheers, John

Hi, I want to remove the battery earth strap where it attaches to the bellhousing - I'm removing an old and unused battery conditioner cable thing. The bolt on the bellhousing is round with a knurled finish, and seems to be keyed with like a large allen key hole. Bigger than any allen key I have though :) What is the appropriate way to remove (and refit) this bolt - surely not mole grips on the knurling ? If I need an allen key can you tell me what size ? Cheers, John

Oh, dipstick or not, she was all lady The guy assisting her seemed to know exactly what to do with a dipstick - I think he was explaining which hole to shove it in 😬 BTW, Mark, now I know it was you behind I don't feel so embarassed at how long it took me to get strapped in and get out of your way John

Hi, Yup, that be me ! That was the cars first outing on its Y plates after the previous owner reclaimed his cherished plate. Was also the first outing after fixing the fuel leak in the fuel tank (which really does seem to be fixed) and the air leak in the plenum. It wasn't you assisting the young lady with her dipstick or something was it ? Cheers, John

Hi, As you might have seen in my other post I'm in the process of taking out my feul tank to repair a leak. While I'm at it I want to replace one of the hoses which has a nick in it where it's been trapped beneath the honeycomb boot floor. I think it is the return hose (it goes from the side of the filler tube to a thingy (haven't a clue what it is). Photo here It's attached to the thingy with a weird hose clamp - how do I get it off and can I replace it with a standard jubilee clip ? Also, is there any lubricant I can use when putting hoses back on as this one at least just doesn't want to come off ! Cheers, John

Hi, Tony, just to confirm you were meaning the petro patch putty stuff, right ? It's just that I've stumbled on another Granville Petro Patch product which is a cloth mat and some resin. It seems Petro Patch (putty or mat versions) is getting harder to find and most suppliers now seem to suggest chemical metal or quick steel as an alternative. I'd always thought chemical metal worked well as a filler, but was worried about using it to patch in case it just fell off ! Do you just put a thin layer over the hole or shove it on with a trowel (figurativley speaking) ? Cheers, John

Hi, Do you mean this kit here I was blissfully hoping for something a bit cheaper and simpler, like a patch to glue on the outside I only got the car a week ago - could do without major expense right now. Cheers, John

Hi, I know this topic crops up from time to time, but I've not been able to find some specific info, so here goes... Fuel tank has a leak from the right hand side where it sits on the support rail. The rubber strip is in place so not sure yet why it's leaking - could be punctured or maybe corroded (it'll be the weekend before I can get the tank out and have a proper look). Assuming it's a small hole or seam that has opened up, what is considered the best product to patch it with (and where do I buy it) ? I know some have successfully used chemical metal but I was wondering if there are any products specifically for fuel tanks. Does glass fibre work ? Any gotcha's I should be aware of when trying to remove the tank ? Cheers, John

*If* my temporary fix works (and holds) not massively urgently, but it's a job that will need doing sooner or later - I'll BM you some details. Cheers, John

Hi, It is just the plenum I need - I can re-use my injectors and TB. Cheers, John

Hi, I have a need for a plenum to fit a 1.8k series supersport (EU2). It's the plastic type not aluminium. If you have one available please let me know. Cheers, John

I would question why a 2 month old battery needed charging in the first place ? Depending on your moral standpoint you could just take the battery back under warranty. John

Spooky - I spent almost an hour searching google last night looking for this info, couldn't find it, and all I had to do was search here - duh. My need to know is not as elaborate as a lift - it's just so I know how wide I need to make the carpet for the garage floor so the tyres won't lift the paint when I collect the car on Saturday John

Hi, Just to close the loop on this - sadly I have to walk away from this car. The bodywork corrosion was a big concern, if only because it is difficult to know what is going on with the chassis rail underneath. However, the oil leak I had spotted turns out to be from the head gasket. Although that will be sorted before the car is sold it put some doubt into my non technical mind over the engine in general and I therefore have declined to purchase it. Once the gasket is sorted I am sure it will make a great car for somebody. Cheers, John

Thanks for the link Mick - waaaay out of my price league I'm afraid, though it looks like it is a nice car. Cheers, John

Rumbled :) I wondered if someone would put 2+2 together. I guess the discussion that you are referring to is the one about the suitability of such an engined car for a newbie, which was indeed posted on my behalf before my membership came through - unless you know of other discussions about it too ? If this is indeed "Nifty's" car then I would really like to contact him to have a chat, or indeed whoever's car it is then I would like to make contact. Cheers, John

Hi, Many thanks for the replies so far - it is really helpful. I wish I'd known some of this before seeing this car; it was unfortunate that my mate who drives and knows 7's well wasn't able to join me when looking at this one. Re the chassis condition - I didn't spot any visible nightmares but then again I'm not sure I really knew what I was looking for. I didn't get many photos either. I did take 2 photos of the back end here and here. Doesn't look too bad to me for a 1997 car with >30k miles. Re body corrosion, this is a concern as there was one patch on the drivers side - photo here which could spell trouble. I suspect it's the known grot trap by the footwell. I'd really rather not have to have a reskin as I don't have the space to completely strip and rebuild, besides the expense. The value of this car is evidently not in its overall condition, but rather it's engine, which is rather special. I don't want to say exactly what as it could identify the car and maybe jeopardise a future sale after negative comments here, but it is awesome. Seriously awesome. There were a couple of other faults though - an oil leak, which the seller is going to investigate (it may be a simple fault introduced by the very recent service (by a garage), or maybe not) and also a smell of petrol in the boot, which is probably not too expensive to rectify, even it it means a new tank. I'm beginning to think it may be better to buy a younger, lower mileage car with less spec engine (for the same price) and upgrade the power at a later date rather than this one and deal with bodywork/chassis issues at a later date. Any thoughts welcome. Cheers, John

Hi, I'm in the process of looking for my first 7. I went to look at one today which mechanically is very good and is all the spec I'm after, but the chassis and suspension was in less good condition than I had hoped for. I'm not sufficiently experienced to know if the corrosion I found would be considered serious or superficial, and if serious what would be involved in putting it right. I know it sometimes can be hard to tell from photos, but if you could take a look and give an opinion that would be much appreciated. Photos here here and here Many thanks, John