Selling our CTR Anniversary. '52 reg, 03 model, 60,000 miles, Nighthawk black mettallic. Full red Recaro interior. FHSH. Only 100 made in each colour. £8750.
One of me very last blats. All the way down the M6, from Cumbria to Cheshire and back, via Blackburn, and not one spotted. And whilst one t' subject, 7 years in the Lake District, and only one spotted, one I tell's ya, in all that time, and it's a crossflow.
My car has the 16" wheels fitted, so haven't tried the stickier things that can be fitted to the smaller wheels, but have run both F1's and Toyo T1S, and T1R's on me 7. Always preffered the F1's, which to me seemed to have a softer tread, but a stiffer side wall than the Toyos, better in the wet too. As said, perform better on a weightier car, and were outstanding on the Impreza.
Thanks guys, yeah removed caliper, split pin, castellated nut, plus washer. On most cars, certainly the disks usually do fall off at this point. Just needed to check before I started bashing away. A search on the subject revealed a post suggesting that there was a bolt ? holding the hub on, that needed removing.
Watch this space as I'm sure to be back asking how to drift out the bearings
Looking to replace drivers side front wheel bearing. Does the hub/disk usually come off the stub axle easily. Mine seems to be proving difficult, any tips ?
Looking to replace drivers side front wheel bearings. Got to the point where I need to remove the hub. Now, does the hub/disk usually come away from the stub axle, as mine seems to be well and truly in place. Usual trick is I miss a locating screw/nut somewhere.
Thanks
If I remember, there was a picture of a 7 with two bikes attached to the roll bar, in one of the old Low Flyings, looked very neat. I will try to dig it out and describe it to you. I guess a full roll cage set up would be ideal for this sort of thing.
Just to give you an idea of cost, TEG did a clutch replacement, (using STI HD clutch), along with cambelts and crankshaft oil seal, and drivers side rocker gasket, for about £600.
Is it the 2 litre engine as in the Impreza ? If so, you might try Townend Garage, at Carnforth, (Warton). They prepare the rally cars for the privatiers and did alot of work on my Impreza, check with them first as they only do Impreza's. Also Westgate Tyres at Morecambe do alot of work on Impreza's, the owner has one and is an enthusiast. After that, the 'stealer' I used was Palmers at Carlisle, always got a new courtesy car when mine was in, just got a bit expensive.
It's either the effects of the throttle bodies, etc , on the CTR engine, or the engine from the S2000, which as said has 240 bhp. The original Jap import CTR, with the LSD, did have the 240 bhp engine as std. Mind , my son has the std CTR, and with air filter and Magnex, seems to have alot more oomph than std.
I've used toyos' on my last 3 cars, from the Impreza to the tdi bora, have them on the 7 now. Top tyres, son also uses them on his Civic Type R. Used to favour the F1's, but the side wall is a little stiffer on the Toyos, and seems to last a bit longer. Always get them, fitted, for £70 a corner, 205/16/50's, Gates, Carlisle/Westgates, in Morecambe/Camskill, West Cumbria.
Just fitted a replacement to my car. You require a type 14, from a Spitfire Mk IV. Try Canley Classics, alot cheaper than Rimmers, at £42 for refirbished one, with yours in part ex.
Having struggled to fathom out why my x-flow keeps ejecting its coolant into the catch pot, especially after spirited driving, I am now wondering if the culprit might be the head gasket. The thermostat and the pressure cap have been replaced, 74°C, as recommended by the chaps at Redline, the system has been drained and refilled numerous times, with the front of the car well raised up on a trolley jack to purge air from the system, but althought the coolant in the catchpot appears clean I have noticed a brown greasy residue on the sides of the pot.
Question is, how difficult is it to replace the head gasket, will the valve timing alter by removing the head, or is it a case of just refitting the head after replacement, as long as the cam position hasn't altered.
Sorry, should have said, get your cap from Redline, or give them a ring and they will probably give you the part number, always had excellant service from them.
If it's a 1700SS then you have the wrong ' stat fitted, it should be 74°C. I've just finally cured my overheating problems on my car, regularly spitting out it's coolant into the expansion bottle, and road. It turned out that the pressure cap was U/S, simple really. I guess it was overheating at the start due to the wrong pressure in the system, then not sucking it back into the engine due to the lack of vacuum, due to the leaking cap. New cap, bleed system, at the radiator, new 74°C stat, unnecessary, but I now have 2 spares, and it's back to normal running temps.
Just about to fit my RH front calliper, and wondered if it was necessary, or even possible, to 'pre-fill' the calliper body with brake fluid to aid with brake bleeding once installed.
For info, Canley Classics supplied a reconditioned type 14 calliper for £42 + £35 surcharge in lieu of the old one.
Many thanks for the offer, but at the price I am being offered, and the cost of the refurbishment kit, I think I will go for the reconditioned item, and let someone else do the work. I do need to know if the calliper is a type 12 or 14 though, as I am dealing with none Caterham suppliers. Anybody ???
Had several posts on here re. replacement front drivers side brake calliper, due to sticking piston. Found a firm which supplies Triumph parts who will let me have a reconditioned one for about £42, so at that price not worth getting the re-build kit. Just need to establish if it a Girling 12 or 14, apparently it's differentiates between a bigger or smaller calliper bodies. No clues with the part numbers stamped into the calliper bodies themselves.
Any thoughts ?