glasgow

My understanding, bluecol my be better for Radtec radiator but comma coolant is better for the K-Rover engine. Correct?

Charles, no need to apologies I was just joking about my English No particular noise in the clip it is just how the engine sounds. After some baltting I experienced the engine having similar sound to the engine in the clip (I edited my text in post 15 to try make it clear) So is areation danger? I am not really keen to do modification, is it ok to leave it?

thank you folks. Slapping may not be the correct word. My English is not my mother tongue so i asked Mrs Glasgow who said ticking may be a better word to use. I did some youtube search and found the engine sound in this clip very similar to my engine sound after some blatting. I have digital SPA digital oil gauge which is supposed to be very accurate in measuring the pressure and the temp. Temp on normal driving is around 88C. on blat usually around 92 but can go on occasions to 98,99 or even 102C on very odd occasions. Oil is changed regularly

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2947/15385443095_4b034aed38_c.jpg https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4474/37874947582_877119af4c_c.jpg https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3880/15385442855_afdb87d817_c.jpg

There is a sticker on rear of the car says X-Power. (Whatever this means )

Hi Ian. Sorry meant ant to say bar. No extra timing belt at the rear of the engine no apollo tank

Hello all. Was just reading the recent thread on oil https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/oil-7?page=1 and it made me wonder if I am using the right oil for my 2003, 1.8L, K engine. I "think" (but not sure) it is not vvc. I use comma 5w-50 and the car is used for road and blats. However, I notice a couple of things during recent blats: A) when the oil temp rises to let's say above 95C, I notice the oil pressure drops to 1.8 or 1.7psi on idle. (If oil temp is less than 92C, oil pressure on idle is 2psi or above) B) after hard driving in blats sometimes I hear some slapping noise on idling. This doesn't happen after every blat and certainly not with normal road driving. Are these normal observations or the oil is too thin? Could this be related to the removal of the sump foam baffle and may be the 2 modification holes in the gasket are not enough for corner acceleration? Car has wet sump and the oil pressure during driving range between 4-5psi. Is 5w-50 the correct oil for me? Regards Ahmed

Bought from Caterham cars

Thanks for the reply. If I take it to someone to do it. Is a bodywork repair shop ok for this job or it has to be powder-coater? (it is a new bar so can't see the need for a powder coater). Any idea about the cost please? A

Hello, all. Bought a new FIA rollbar to replace my standard one. I am thinking of having it painted in matching colour to the car (yellow). Is it just a matter of spraying paint on top of the existing black colour? any preparation needed? what to do with the 2 stickers on the diagonal bar? How much would I expect for professional painting? Could it be a DIY? (don't have a compressor) Regards Ahmed

Well, I have similar power and went for 8" rear in order to stop over-steering. Ahmed

No luck with search I can only find this http://www.lotus7.club/sites/default/files/images/Docs/Guides/Changing%20a%20radiator%20fan%20control%20switch%20to%20an%20ECU%20controlled%20fan%20with%20manual%20over%20ride%20switch-1.pdf which is not I am looking for. Anyone can post a guide to attaching a relay please. (And to complicate the matter I have a manual override switch that already has a relay. Hope this won't make adding another relay a complicated task). Regards Ahmed

Oops, thank you Ian. I should have read yesterday threads before doing an archive search

Need to buy a radiator fan switch (the switch that is attached to the radiator). Mine failed a few weeks ago and it was only just over 2 years old. Car is K series (1.8L, 140 bhp, mainly for road use). and radiator is Radtec. I can't remember was the switch 87-92C. or 92-95C Any suggestion for a good quality switch please. And what temp range to buy? Many thanks Ahmed

Sorry for the numpty question. How to re-map a 2003 K series engine for 97 Octane please? Ahmed

To fully release the reverse gear.

Paul, It is digital (DG201). But also have a 300mm hose to move the sender away from the engine block.

Oh, I had fun doing it especially the last 24h before I set off to Europe. AutoThink hose leaking oil. No time to replace the hose , decided to drive with the leak. Have done over 1000 mile so far and the leak is "OK". Didn't need to top up so far and only a minor "oil smearing". Also after I packed the seven and wife sat on her seat and waived to neighborhood the fan switch decided to stop working. Again no time to replace it and thankfully I have a manual override fan switch. I actually found the spa gauge quite useful here as it starts flashing red if I forget to turn the fan on.

Interestingly no mention of spa electronic gauge. Installed mine last month and very happy with it. It has more advantages compared to the mechanical sender. Ahmed

When I replaced my front pads I attached the soft sticky anti squeak pads that came with the mintex 1144. I don't think that was a good idea. A) they added thickness, therefore more piston retraction needed. B) the brake was squeaking so a few days later I had a look and found 3 out of the 4 pads were jammed. Took the soft pads off and everything is perfect. If your new pads are different type than the old ones, gently use number 80 sanding paper to remove the coating of the old pads off the rotor surfaces. Ceratec, may be better than copaslip. It doesn't produce static electricity and doesn't attach dust. Use only very thin layer. Ahmed

Many thanks Ian

And one for me too please, Ian. Ahmed

Ian, I changed mine last month and was not aware we need to notice the piston cross

One of the reasons for using silicone hoses is they can easily be remove and re-install when doing modifications in the car, but on the expense of they don't provide a tight fit