elie boone

Your fuel pump wire i running along the RH side of the lower chassis rail, maybe it gets trapped between chassis and DD tube causing your fuse to blow.

Once i used M4 bolts instead of rivets when the load is high on the floor.

I know that you can replace the ball only, however where to find the right part i don't know.

Forgot to say that you will need plugs where once the injectors where or just leave them in place. 20 years ago there would be plenty of advice on non original modifications but these day's are long gone afraid.

The poly bush comment was only about the A frame.

Just google Y9 or Y16 and you have plenty of sources, just beware as i bought once a pair of Y16 plastic orange bushes from e-bay and they didn't last 1 track day, i had some made in teflon and will see how they get on but i expect they last a long time.

On the first DD tubes with underslung mounting point  i have seen some very poor welding, besides that there are better ways and easier to manufactor to fix an underslung mounting point that doesn't compromise the tube it's strength, some people may think that when something is welded it's strong but in fact get it wrong and it becomes weaker.

Raceline does a manifold to suits DCOE carbs, you can use whatever cam you want and ign need to be 3D but apart from the TPS everything is already on the engine. For track use there won't be too much difference with a fuel injected engine.

Y16 is the A frame bush. 

I have engine mounts, and a complete Sprint exhaust.

#3 Gary May & Caterham data doesn't say to set the rake with ballast. BTW  how much weight difference is there on the front axle with or without driver ?

Most important is that it's mounted stress free, you may need a number of washers to fill up the gap between rad and rubber bobin. Even copper radiators can start to weep if there is to much tension in the rad when mounted.

Before i used Champion 5W40 full synthetic oil but now i use Valvoline 5W40 full synt. and it's much quiter cold or hot.

Home made tool fit for purpose 

7 oaks, if you send me a PM i can send you a base set up written by Gary May. Set the rake as per Caterham figures but you can alter it to change the understeer/oversteer to your liking.

Cat graham, a few mm on the exhaust side will may give you a cm on the carb side. Doesn't the diagonal on the exhaust side is removable ? if so you could flatten ( oval) it a bit that it would give just that little bit more clearance.

It's a long time i had a VX2.0 to look at but from memory the engine sits as high as possible so it just doesn't touch the nosecone and if my memory serves me well there could be a support before the engine on the nose cone so it can't drop onto the timing belt. 2 oil filters and 2 oil coolers seems a bit much BTW the big low oil pressure light on the dash is called an idiot light.

Long shot but maybe some part on the suspension is pulling or touching the electrical loom ?

94 chassis should have metalistic bushes but it's easy to spot, if you have a 1/2" nut on the front lower wishbone then it's metalistic, if it's a small bolt the you have Y9 bushes.

If you don't mind that the steering wheel sits 30mm closer to you https://www.direct-autoparts.nl/products/universal-billet-aluminum-thin-version-auto-steering-wheel-quick-release-kit-with-security-lock-for-modified-and-racing-car?var

If you are on a budget, the Jag V12 used the Lucas rally amplifier so maybe you can find one at a breakers yard, then you need to find a decent secondhand dizzy and buy a new pick up.

The problem with alloy is that it's heavy due to the extra thickness needed to make it rigid. I see that your exhaust is repackable so i guess your Q is more related to cosmetics ? 

If the oil reservoir in the bell housing overheats the clutch wouldn't it be easily overcome by drilling a number of say 40mm holes  and glue some mesh behind in the bell housing to let the hot air out ?

On the front vertical tube that holds the top link suspension there is a T piece on later S3 chassis. You can basically place the T where you want at the front as making new brake lines is very simple.

The Lucas Rally ign. kit is very good but pricey. Aldon would be the best value and has a modifyed advamce curve to suit your cam. BTW if your distributor says unleaded that doesn't mean you have hardened valve seats most X Flow engine from the factory didn't had hardened valve seats.