elie boone

Give Phil At Road&Race a call  https://www.rrtransmissions.com/ he sure can help you. BTW i don't think there is a visual difference or any difference between an Ital and a 1.8ltr Marina axle.

You can always use a drill and a punch.

If you have a lathe it's easy to modify the tool, alternatively use a M3 nut between rivet and tool that will give just enough clearance.

It is important with a 6V system that your cables are thick enough, thicker than a 12V system. Equally important is to run the main negative earth direct to the starter motor to avoid current losses. Used to service the odd Jeep and Minerva derivative in military service and never had problems cranking, even a 1947 EMW i did some work on had no problem with cranking on 6V.

If i remember correct a coil with resistor is a 9V coil but is powered by 12V but only while cranking.

U can reuse the fittings with new olive's and just replace the hose. From memory the chassis side is UNF

Make sure your crankcase breather function is adequate 

Is it leaking oil from the inner or outer surface ? First port of call would to look for any damage or wear on the housing or camshaft.

I use Longacre scales, as proper corner weight scales they are fit for purpose. At race car direct you can find them sometimes sec.hand. The cheapest new one's are about 1K.

You can also use a Clio expansion bottle https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Renault-Clio-Mk2-1-5-dCi-2-0-16v-Sport-Radiator-Expansion-Tank-Bottle-Cap/163231324908?fits=Car+Make%3ARenault%7CModel%3AClio&

If you look at your water pump you will see that both are before the impeller so there are no pro's or con's for both way's

For a closed system you don't need a T in the lower radiator hose but one in the 16mm hose that exits the water pump.

JonT, yes you have overdone it

A Duratec R300 with a new Sigma peashooter can still passes a 98db noise limit. A K series 1.6 SS with a 20 year old std exhaust didn't.

Caterham big brakes : calipers,rotors, and pads are 13kg

Once i tried to cool the rears by a 60mm tube starting next to the roll cage and blowing direct to the caliper but it didn't had much effect.

Something like this maybe ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Exhaust-4-x-2-x-20-Silencer-Kit-Car-Resonator-Muffler-Back-Box-304/323472103515?hash=item4b5070985b:g:8WUAAOSwMVdYGwqN

i still receive messages and did reply to all of them.

Replied 

BTTT

Due to a change of plans i have a complete big brake set, disc's,calipers,new pads and flexible hoses. the disc's have been resurfaced so virtually new.

400 GBp for the lot and 30 GBp P&P, 

pic to follow

i want to operate a wipermotor with a on/off/on toggle switch and want to use a 5 pin relay for it

so if i connect the toggle switch  slow speed to 86 and 87 of the relay and 30 to the wiper motor slow speed and position 2 on the wiper connector to 87A would that work ?

I could answer my own question but that would be like lipstick on a pig would it ?

The vibration the brakes produce should be addressed but the sound seems to come from the scuttle area,  could it be something that is slightly loose that is fixed on the scuttle ?

On a Manual gearbox you should use the spring version clutch, the solid plate suits better a sequential gearbox.

If his chassis is short cockpit it would have this pedal arrangement. I don't know what year the short cockpit was faced out of production maybe 1996 ?