elie boone

AFAIK on a live axle the engine and gearbox have to come out together.

I guess it's a short cockpit then ? On Rally cars they use the round tube of the cage to fix the seatbelt, you can do it the same way but not with a Caterham spec harness.

If your heat shield is to close to the starter motor it will contain the heat, better to fix a shield to the primary closest to the starter on top of some wrapping isolation.

If the starter motor is not turning over while hot, i would start to check and clean all earth cables and + 12V cables see if they are not brittle. Did you tried to start with a cable from the solenoid direct to the battery in doing so bypassing the ign barrel.

This is what you need, just solder the wire ends, makes it a lot easier.

Malcolm, you should be able to find them at every electrical store or DIY shop

if you solder the cable end it's much easier on frequent changes.

https://www.electrical4less.co.uk/product/wago-221-412-lever-connector/

Very nice those tubed banjo axle but by the time Arch has finished with your axle you are at 300+ unless you do the brackets your self.

How about this one https://www.scooter-center.com/en/mirror-stadium-clip-on-chrome-round-lhs-7675939?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8bfEuczU7QIVic13Ch2APAPwEAQYAyABEgJ4l_D_BwE

To improve cold shift u can use ATF oil but it wouldn't change the other problems.

Yes the X Flow engine and banjo axle are worth saving but don't forget the leather covers for the seats !! btw it had an automatic gearbox and the parts that where not presentable he probably burnt in the fire on the background.

It has all the symptoms that the wrong oil is in the box, probably GL5, what you need is GL4 oil. I would drain the oil and put new GL 4 oil in and see what the result is.

The Ford axle is smaller than the Ital axle, so anticipate and mount longer studs on the Ford axle in order to fit spacers for a better look.

I don't know the age of the headlights but it had this connector for earth if i recall correct

I once found a duff connection between wire and bullet connector inside the rear light, as it had a little hole on the end of it all that needed was just a bit of solder to solve it.

A7 OOH, yes the Lucas LRS 110 is a straight swap, and the body is much smaller than the old Lucas or Bosch startermotor.

What you need is the Lucas LRS 110 1.4KW startermotor https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TVR-TASMIN-2-0-FORD-OHC-PINTO-BRAND-NEW-1-4Kw-HIGH-POWER-UPGRADE-STARTER-MOTOR/302343585246?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=

If the new 245mm disc has the same off set as the old Triumph set up the u can turn down a 260mm disc to 245mm.

Did anyone used the Omex mapping direct from Raceline for the RLD210 cams set up ? and how good was it ? i ask because i can't seem to find a rolling road in Belgium/Netherlands/North of France that can modify an Omex.

Here you can even choose the number of grooves http://www.reddotracing.co.uk/discs.asp they can also make bespoke pads / components

I can dig out the codes for the Hi-Spec rotors with allloy bell, first time it  cast the same as the Caterham disc but once you have the bell a disc is about 85 gbp

Why replace the disc ? if the run out is not in the bell you could have them resurfaced.

Thanks for the info, think i will go for the Raceline package, camshaft & omex ECU.

The Ital / Marina axle was designed to use a solid spacer not a crushable one.

The RLD210 Raceline cam doesn't need pockets, just upgraded valve springs.

Does anybody knows how much lift the R 400 cams have ? i need to upgrade a std 2.0 Duratec to R 400 spec and i have been looking at Piper cams but it's not stated if the pistons need pockets.