regroo

Must be the first time 'interesting' and 'protons' have been included in the same sentence 😬 I can only hope that when the rig hits 1.2 gigawatts the entire Swiss and French Police forces are transported back to 1955.

2005 Audi TT 3.2 V6 For Sale

It’s no more brutal than how it is already connected. The only difference is you are removing a bunch of contacts and (more importantly) a fuse. The solenoid will only pull the its rated current (unless it is faulty), the shorter the path to it the better. I can’t get my head around just how poor the Rover electrics are. Every contact/connection in the signal wire is a potential loss, check all the contacts to see if there is any corrosion/pitting as this reduce the current getting to the starter. I currently have a click which I am going to fix by wiring a relay direct.

Sounds good to me. Why not go the whole hog and change the software in the tills to only accept 10 scans? It would brighten my day to see random knob jockeys behind sent to the back of the queue to pay for the eleventh item 😬 All they need to do now is get rid of the self scan lanes. Edited by - regroo on 1 Sep 2008 18:00:44

Cheers Mark Can I grab both from Partco, as there is no chance from CC this late in the day ☹️

After an uneventful drive to Dunsfold this weekend the level in my header tank dramatically changed, this was right after some hard use. The tank was completely full up so I thought I would leave it overnight before going any further. In the morning the cap had leaked slightly and when I released the cap there was a good cup full of coolant that came out. I filled to the line then ran it last night, it appeared to be slightly warmer than usual but I put this down to paranoia. This am took it out for a last and all appears fine? Temp at 80 or on the 0 and no change in level. Tomorrow I have booked Cadwell Park and am really unsure whether driving 300 miles + track time is going to be ok. Reading various things on here it seems that the first thing is an airlock somewhere, although it has been fine for the last 6 months since a rad change. Next the cap, could it be leaking? I don’t know what thermostat is in there and this morning the bottom hose was lukewarm after about 15 miles of driving. I don’t want to think HG as it seems unlikely and also an easy thing to say and overlook the obvious. Opinions?

Here are the parts needed to convert. You dont have to go to Think Auto and TBH when I fitted mine they had run out of gauges so I went to Demon Tweeks instead. Also take a look here for a really good installation writeup It is better as it is a true reading of the oil pressure fed from the filter housing. Oil pressure is acting directly on the gauge. Caterham senders are notoriously rubbish and dont tell you much about anything. With the mechanical gauge you will have an accuracte reading and a much more useful device. Adding a switch into the system gives you an early warning of low pressure, although be careful of which switch you buy as a 30PSI one will almost certainly be active on idle after a hard blat. Edited by - regroo on 19 Aug 2008 13:59:16

Check the cable isn't shorting on the block?

Pete, The drive home revealed that the new settings have; Reduced the steering input needed to turn Made the front feel 'softer' and a big reduction in bump steer. Overall the car feels planted and much more compliant. Have to get used to it all but I reackon its a winner. WIll seek out more rear camber in the future, prolly after the track day. Anyway thanks again for the help today

In my experience if there is a fault with the cooling system it usually gets worse. If you think there is an airlock then bleed the system first (have a quick search on here there is lots of info on good methods) If the HG is leaking then you have to lose water. I would also guess that if you lost some water out of the rail it is unlikely that this would lead to an airlock. No discoloured coolant or water vapour from the exhaust points to mist. You said 'steam' but could it be oil mist? After a run remove the oil filler cap for an idea. As long as you keep an eye on the temperature and levels you should be fine whilst you are looking for what the issue is

Is the car still losing water from the header tank?

Definately headed for the bin. I have gone for RS14/RS4-2 so it should be a fairly big change in performance

Bingo I just wanted to make sure I never ended up with them again 😬

I am swapping the pads out (4 POT AP calipers) and am wondering what have come out? They have a black painted back and have nothing written on them. The top of the pads have M1202-50601N in white ink. Does anyone recognise these? As for how they feel think of birch crossed with oak 😬

I was going to order from an eBay shop but after reading some of the feedback am wary of them. Anyone with suggestions of a decent supplier.... CC dont seem to have a complete 'kit' so have been looking at Merlin/Demon Tweeks. Thanks.

Had the same issue with mine recently I got it 'ok' in the end by opening up the side mounting holes a little. The centre holes have quite a pronounced effect on things and I had to open those up as well. TBH I think most scuttles are slightly different. Last resort you could always put another 2x mounting screws into the base?

I would check the connections to and from the ecu/coil HTH

No problem David, let me know when you are free sometime as I would like to take a look at your car (BTW I have lost your number!) Alan, if I could borrow a gun off of you that would be great, let me know when and I will come over and pick it up

I am in the process of changing my dash. A quick scan in the archives shows the general opinion is to remove the scuttle and replace the std rivets to make it easier to get to things in the future. Has anyone purchased some (tool and rivnuts) recently and got a contact? Lastly just to double check the sizes I am looking for it looks like M4 for the scuttle? Thanks

I have a std CC tacho lying around. If you want to try it out mail me. edit - Also have a Stack ST200 which will soon be surplus to requirements Edited by - regroo on 31 Jul 2008 14:45:57

RJ, Its a CC dry sump, I was hoping there would be an M10 in the bellhousing? Will search tonight, its bound to be raining 😬

Anthony, David Have just spoken to Stack. The dash is an 04 and one of the last before SS switching. Its good news actually as I have everything to install and won't be needing any new sensors. There is already a remote as I used a 'T' with a pressure switch when I installed a mech oil guage. Need to sort the oil temp location and stick a remote water rail in to take the extra water sensor then it will be good to go 😬

I used to have lots of flames and banging on the overun before it was found that the throttle pot was out leading to fueling all over the place. Even on/off throttle would do it! Lots of fuel and slighly leaky collectors seem to be the way forwards.

Thanks Its a Stack branded unit so fingers crossed I can use the SSR

I am changing my dash to the (8130?) and am running a Racetech mech oil gauge which I like but obiously with the Stack it is back to a transducer unit. My question is are the Stack units better than the CC versions? I really cant be doing with false oil pressure readings now I have found something reliable