Colin Heseltine

I also have been talking to Scholar as my engine filled No. 2 cyl. with water and I am looking to go the Evo 2 route. Having talked to Dave Jackson he was very happy with the work and the turnround. I may well pay them a visit in the very near future. Colin.

to Royce as well. Colin

Graeme, I think your idea re novice award as a percentage of class time is fairer than fastest time overall. As regards the upgrades to my car for this season, I felt that I was in similar position to Guy, trying to compete against BH and the Perry's in cars with much greater bhp. Add to this the fact that as it was in bits following blown head gasket it would have been criminal not to make it faster 😬. Regards, Colin.

First of all thanks to Graham for organising such a great championship. The competition in all classes has been very close, none more so than in Class 2. Congratulations Guy on Championship Class 2 win. As you say 63. something foot behind you by the end of the season. Must try harder next year job permitting. Thanks to everyone for making all the events so friendly. One particulat highlight was standing in a huddle at Loton at 11:30 at night watching video clip of Paul Ransom on Peter Carmichaels laptop. Once again thanks to all and see hopefully most of you at the Championship dinner. Regards, Colin

Yes x 2 Colin

Slightly off topic but not a lot. Following recent problems with No. 4 exhaust primary I found the thread stripped in the head. This is the thread just below the water manifold you are talking about. This necessitated helicoiling. Beacause of the inclination of the head it is very difficult to tap at right angles to the machined face. I had to remove the complete manifold and you would be wise to do the same. It is possibler when replacing the manifold to get the final bolt caught on top of the water manifold and for it not to screw in fully. To do this task required a right angle drill adaptor for rechargeable drill. In order to get at right angles to the face I first gently screwed a 5 inch long bolt into the damaged thread, and then (with nosecone removed) was able to look through the gap between edge of radiator and chassis and talk an assistant through drawing a parallel line (with steel ruler) onto the aluminium bulkhead panel. This line was then used as a guide (assistant advising up/down with drill until parallel with the line) whilst drilling and helicoil tapping the damaged hole. The job was completed successfully but required care. This same technique could be used to successfully tap and helicoil your damaged thread. Hope this helps. Colin.

As Kipper knows I also have the Apollo and Laminova combination, but with the Radtec ali radiator as well. I have the slight problem of not being able to get the Laminova to sit flat as the top hose pipe on the Radtec is in a different position to the standard radiator. Temperature wise the combination has made a great difference. I did also change to 82 degree stat and drilled it as well. I would be interested in knowing whether the one way valve is a Think Automotive product and its cost as the wait for oli pressure can be a bit disconcerting, especially if the car has not been used for a week or two. Regards, Colin.

Having left the car overnight on the conditioning charger it has started OK half dozen times in a row. I have check that the unit is not loose as that was one thing I suspected. Wondering whether I possibly have the start of a cell going down and the hot load is just a bit too much. Thnaks for ideas, Colin.

Guy, I gather from your posting you intend beating me at Aintree . Last time I was there was 21 years ago in a Formula Ford. Being the old git that I am can you show me the way round, I can't remember which way the bends go!!!!!!!! See you there Colin.

At the sprint Sunday, came to start car for second timed run and it would not start. Not the usual click and then nothing but a clunk as the starter threw the bendix gear into mesh and then nothing. Tried three or four times and then it started. Left it running till back in the paddock and then switched off. Similar problem again when came to start to put on trailer and again at home when unloading. Whilst still on trailer I switched the lights on to see if they dimmed down as tried to start the car, but this time it started and they did not go dim. Car is on original 1997 Banner battery and has been used with a battery conditioner fro the last 18 months. Any suggestions, Colin.

I have recently fitted the Lifeline QR with my exting MOMO wheel. Unless something has changed drastically the bolt centres for the standard steering column boss are the same as those on the QR boss. Mine fitted straight on, using the existing bolts. All I needed was three small metric nyloc nuts. Note that with the wheel all centred up on the column you may find that the wheels no longer point straight ahead. In my case I had to release the bolt holding the lower steering column into the rack. Remove bolt. slide out the column, and reset the wheels to point straight ahead and then reinsert the lower column. Regards, Colin.

I had mine done last year by BMTR at Perry Bar nr. B'Ham. I had not bought the tyres of them. IIRC it cost £10 +VAT per tyre. In fact I need two more doing now, so I may give them a call. Colin.

If you mean the Apollo tank drain plug, then as far as I am aware there should be an 'O' ring on the bolt. This will sqeeze down into the slightly tapered hole and seal it. The bolt IIRC has a slight recess turned under the head for the 'O' ring. 'O' ring certainly does the job on mine and does not leak. Best of Luck, Colin.

When I re bled my 1.6 K recently I used engine hoist to lift front of the car to almost chest height. Removed the top radiator bleed screw and then filled up via the expansion tank. When I could not get any more fluid in (at around 8 pints) I released the jubilee clip on the upper heater hose and partially removed the hose. Air bubbled out and then a steady stream of water. Put hose back on and then gradually lowered car down. As it came down water started to flow from radiator bleed so tightened up bleed screw, finished lowering car then topped expansion tank to the line. Not had any problems. What possible also helps is the 3 or 4 off 4mm holes drilled in thermostat. Hope this helps. Colin

Was interested to see the various solutions to the hot starting problems on K series starters. I suffered from this problem for 12 months. In the end I removed the starter and had a look at the threaded pillar that the starter cable is attached to. On close examination using bright light and magnifying glass it became apparent that there was a hairline crack in the solder wher the pillar is attached to the solenoid internals. Solution: Using jewellers welding torch and desolder gun I removed as much solder from the joint as possible. Then resoldered the joint using old fashioned spirits of salts to clean the joint followed by old fashioned stick of solder and soldering flux. Never had a problem for the last 18 months, whether track day, sprint or road use. Hope this helps someone. Regards, Colin R 7 CJH Yellow Supersport

If it helps anyone make their mind up, I can confirm they are well made. I fitted one last year to my 1600 K Series Supersport. It fitted straight in and I have not had any problems. Very satisfied customer. The price is good as well. Regards, Colin.

Richard. You have mail. Colin

Where can I get details on the Powerspeed Bulk Buy??

Recently bought Swift Shade from Airflow (www.airflow.uk.com) 3mx3m with 500D waterproof roof and ally frame. Can certainly recommend it, . It did a very good job protecting a number of people from the rain at the BMMC sprint at Curborough recently. As an added bonus it can be strapped across the back of a Seven (attached to the roll cage). Colin.