Tiddy7

Don’t get me wrong Tom I hope it’s a great success, and the ev may well be the turning point, but when Caterham’s cost £10k it was accepted that they were built in sheds and needed looking after like a classic car, inspected after every trip etc, but now people pay £75k for a caterham so expect the same dealer/ reliability of a Porsche or merc

We don't buy Caterhams because of their great engineering and quality of manufacture, we buy them despite their poor engineering and quality of manufacture and hence why Caterham have produced an non seven shaped car they have never sold well as there are always better engineered options , and Im afraid that that is likely to happen with the new EV

you can specify a lightened flywheel on a 170 when you buy from Caterham so was just curious, as I currently have my engine and box on the garage floor and a flywheel change is only a 30 min job so i thought it may may be worth doing same way as I have re-engineered the gear shift mechanism to make it work properly I agree about the sprint spec but again just curious as what was done

you would have thought so, but finding any info is very hard, I did find some figures that suggested that the weight had been reduced from about 6kg to 3.4kg I would love to know what they did to the sprint engine to get a claimed 90 Bhp too, but cant find any details at all

Can anyone tell me the difference in weight between the standard and lightened flywheels for the Suzuki F6A, K6A and where I might get one. And does anyone have any real world experience of the difference in drivability? I always feel that my 160 is very slow to rev considering the tiny engine size and would like to improve this

Flush fitting caterham filler cap with 2 keys, gasket and bolts, no filler neck great condition, only removed as I have changed to a black one £80, including postage

I have this one going spare, proper enamel , not the plastic rubbish,

That picture is from the 170 build manual, the 160 does not use an a frame it has two trailing links on each side and a panard rod

You never actually finish building a seven, you can do it in a few days but I highly recommend taking it slow and enjoying the experience

Just bend the ends of the anti-roll bar out until the two sides are the same. The construction of the bar is so crude that +/-25mm tolerances are not unusual

As you are running direct to head throttle bodies there are no sensors to confuse, you may have an inlet temperature sensor but you do not have an air flow meter of any kind, the map will be based on throttle position and rpm, with maybe some temp correction. The oil on the filter will have no impact on the airflow as the filter has a many times greater area than the inlet ports, and the change in oil viscosity will be minimum So if the engine is generally running well I would be looking to see if any of your injectors are leaking/ not closing properly. When your fuel pump primes, before you start the engine, or after you shut down but leave the ignition on, you have 3.5ish bar of fuel pressure behind the injectors a small leak will put fuel into the cylinders and it will leak into the sump. is the sump oil level increasing? you can pull the fuel rail with the 4 injectors out and leave it connected to the fuel lines, then prime the fuel pump and look for leaks. or you may well be able to just look into your throttle bodies with the throttles open and see if there is fuel weeping into any cylinders (depends where your injectors are located)

Also always be careful with wheel balancing weights as they can often hit the dedion, I would suggest grinding off the suspect area to gain at least 5mm clearance as the whole tube hub/ wheel can deflect a considerable amount under load. There is no issues with the structural integrity of the de-deion tube in this area, (its quite likely to fail elsewhere, just not here!)

One of my closest friends died when he hit his head head on the unpadded roll cage of his sports prototype car, only 300metres from his front door, please use some proper padding, accidents by their nature happen when you least expect them

It really depends which way the loads will be, in a front end shunt you would be mostly putting the bolts in shear ( I.e across the bolt) , if the battery was mounted to the vertical bulkhead then you would be relying on the rivnuts not pulling out of the bulkhead in which case they are likely to come out. Wilts the tillets you have a driver and a seat belts holding the seat down too

This car started life as a 1.4litre K-series car, but has evolved over the 28 years I have owned it, and the current spec is as follows: The Engine was built from a new 2.0 litre Duratec crate engine and is currently producing 207 Bhp (Power plots shown in photos taken during a rolling road health check carried out on the 17th March 2023) The engine has a piper 270 cam, Jenvey Throttle bodies and Emerald ECU, . Race-line wet sump. Race-line stainless exhaust primaries with Raceco Titanium 7” silencer. This engine was installed in 2008 and has done about 10K miles since then and is in perfect health . Unlike the k-series engines the Duratec will produce 200Bhp, all day , everyday with little stress. ( this engine installation would cost over £10k in parts) Transmission: 5 speed BGH long first box, mounted on a Raceline short bell housing, Raceline clutch and flywheel, the rear end is de-dion and is fitted with a ZF plate Limited Slip Differential . The Chassis is series 3, standard width, It has a removable engine braces allowing easy engine installation.and under dash handbrake. it has never been crashed or damaged. Suspension: Narrow track, single pivot point front shock mount with AVO one-way adjustable alluminum shocks with adjustable spring platforms it has been flat floor set up and corner weighted for good road handling 6” front, and 8” rear 13” wheels with Toyo R888s Bodywork: New front and rear wings in black GRP. Standard flat floors (not lowered), The Side skins were replaced in 2003 when it was painted in Dodge viper blue FIA Track day roll bar S-type cloth seats ( leather shown in photo) Full hood and doors LED lowered 5” headlights Keyless ignition Stack rev counter The Car has done 74K miles, however it has been maintained and upgraded over its life and few parts have done more than 10K miles (since the Duratec engine upgrade) Full MOT (this is a kit built 1994 car so does not require a cat and requires no more than '1975 visible smoke emissions test' ) Optional extras also available, such as half hood, petty strut, set of track day wheels, and numerous spares (separate negotiation) ​​​​​​​ ​​​​​​​ ​​​​​​​