Tiddy7

I never had any issues with vibration with a slimmed down pulley, but I never went above 8k revs

what's the second set of grooves driving from the crank pulley? , I machined my pulley down and saved about half a kilo

I’m looking for a harness to match the one below, caterham don’t sell them any more, had anyone got one available, must have black metalwork and red latch, drivers side preferred but will take either

Try charging the battery, or testing the battery voltage. my car (160s) before I bought it, apparently use to give these codes when left for a while and the battery voltage dropped, fine once reset. I fitted a master cut out switch and also ditched the ignition key, never had the problem since

Bill, I'm in just north of Bristol BS36 2SL let me know if you want any help. Dave did a very good job of fine tuning my Duratec which was running on an old standard of emerald and TBs, (I did the original mapping ) I have done many map corrections at home via my laptop, but as I have now sold that car and have a 160S I no longer need access to emerald ECUs except for helping other club members. your welcome to borrow the laptop for a few months. Simon

If you are near bristol, Dave at interpro will sort you out, he’s well versed with emeralds , I can also lend you a laptop, cable and adapter if needed

It does annoy when the answer to how expensive public charging is, is 'oh you should never use a public charger' and that you should always charge at home on your special rate from your bank of solar panels. That's all very well, but over 75% of all car users in the uk will never have the ability to charge their EVs at home due to not having off street parking, or living in a flat, or living in rented property etc . So we are basically saying that if you are rich, own your own house, have nice off street parking and charging facility then running an EV is cheap, however if your poor then you have to pay 6x more per mile....

many people say that but its really hard to find any hard detailed of what people do, I have found an 800cc stroker kit though

so from the wiring diagram we have 244 and 235 which I have confirmed to be +12v and ground but the WB207 pin is connected direct to the ECU but seems to only give a constant 2.5 Volts, I was hoping for either a switched ground or switched +ve, but may be it needs to be initiated in the ECU, Anyone have any experience of this ? I do need to check what it does if I go up to the rev limit though

The guy I bought the car from had been having lots of throttle pot/ maf fault codes, especially when the battery was low, I junked the ignition switch and replacer it with a single switch, the problem went away, so may be it was just coincidence, but the switches/ steering locks caterham fit are notoriously unreliable from my experience

I believe the sprint has a replacement turbo to get to the claimed 100 bhp

Benton, as you say it's just a Caterham part, not specific to the ACEs unit , but I do like your suggestion of going in through the taco hole in the dash. I've only just put the car back together, following a full respray and although I did replace all the scuttle rivets with threaded inserts I still don't really want to disturb everything and run the risk of damaging the paint. I was too keen to get it all back together so now have to suffer the inconvenience

close but no cigar I'm afraid, the J.S.T standard was the obvious place to look but there is nothing similar in their catalogue , and that standard only defines the pins, everyone has a different take on the plastic bits and how they clip together. As you can see in the photo they are round pins, not flat spade type and its the odd T shape part that doesn't seem to match , maybe I need to get a photo of the other side As you say fitting a matching pair would have been easy when I has the scuttle off but now its a pain in the ass, hence why I thought I would ask about before I went down that route

Can anyone point me to where I can get a plug to mate with the one shown below, it’s the ace shift light plug under the dash of the 160, I’m struggling to find anything to match

The MAF sensors are about £15 off eBay, I carry a spare with me, ( not that I’ve ever had one fail ) and I have changed the fixing bolts as they are secured to the housing with security torex bolts ( torex with a small pip in the middle) just replace with standard hex bolts or carry the right tool I will say thought I did get the throttle mismatch error when I first had the car, and it was due to a dodgy ignition switch and nothing to do with the maf