Chris Perry

Dear All, Does anyone have a spare S type seat which they want to sell? It can be cloth or leather, condition does not matter, broken or cracked seat frames ok. Thanks, Chris Perry

Dear All, I have two part worn CR500 175/55R13 tyres going for free if anyone wants them? They have about 2mm to the wear indicators at the centre of the tyre so only good for trackdays. Collection only from Kidderminster. Thanks, Chris Perry

Dear All, Wings and side impact bar now spoken for as well.

Dear All, Seat and Diff are both spoken for. Wings and Side impact bar still available.

Dear All, Garage clearout time! Buyers to collect from Kidderminster evenings or weekends. Front and Rear GRP Wings Full set of Front and Rear GRP black metric chassis wings. Pair of front wings are cracked and scuffed. Pair of rear wings were brought at recent Caterham gumble sale but the holes drilled in the mounting flange did not line up with my car. Wings have been drilled for stone guards. Would suit trackday warrior, racers/sprinter types where condition is not important. All free to a good home. Low Back Caterham GRP race seat Not tillet but the narrower ones that pre-dated them. Scuffed and scratched but has brackets. Would suit trackday warrior, racer/spriter types where condition is not important. Free to good home. Caterham supplied Quaife Sierra Rear Differential, Not LSD Came fitted to my 2010 Academy car. Usual clonks, groans and knocks. Needs a rebuild. Think the ratio is 3.91. £50.00 Caterham Metric Side Impact Bar Used for one season. No damage but a few scuffs. Free to good home.

Andrew, You could take it to McMillan Motorsport near Hinkley. If your car is ex-graduate they will probably already know it! http://mcmm.co.uk There is also Bookatrack at Donnington Park who are a little further away. Both are good. I guess the set up is personal and depends on your car. But i have front, 1mm toe out, 2 1/4 deg camber and 2 + 2 caster. There is 15mm rake front to rear. Tell McMillan/Bookatrack what you use the car for and they may be able to offer some advice. Hope this helps. Regards, Chris Perry

Dear All, Thanks for the replies. Today on the Northampton Motorsport rolling road my car made 143 bhp with 120 lbsft of torque. The max figures were no different to the standard Caterham 140 ecu and map but certainly my car now drives a lot better from lower down in the rev range now and idles a lot better than the standard Caterham ecu and map. They did comment i may be able to get more power if i used 98 octane fuel and cooler spark plugs. The standard Caterham ecu cannot be re-mapped and is locked. I was only able to re-map my car as i have brought a new MBE ecu. Hope the helps. Regards, Chris Perry

Dear All, I am off to a rolling road tomorrow to have my 140 Sigma supersport re-mapped. Before i go, can anyone confirm what the caterham quoted max bhp and torque figures are please? I have found 140 bhp @ 7200 rpm and 120 lbs/ft @ 5790 on the net and blatchat. Can anyone confirm? Thanks, Chris Perry

Dear All, Does anyone have any surplus Caterham carbon wings or nose which they no longer want? Water damaged parts are ok, but they need to be Caterham original parts not aftermarket and preferably from a metric car. Regards, Chris Perry

James, Dampers and ride is all subjective. One persons magic carpet is anothers shopping trolley. Before you spend the money i would try and get a passenger ride in a car with the set up you are being offered. I have an old Low Flying article written by Gary May of Juno Sports Car/Freestyle motorsport which may be of interest to you and i can email with regard to spring rates. You could try putting some zip ties around the damper rods on your car and go for a drive. Find some pots holes and bumps and see how much of the current suspension travel you are using. This may give you an idea of the spring rates you may need if you buy some new dampers or if your car is just too stiffly sprung. If all this is too much effort, start saving for the CSR! Regards, Chris Perry

Dear All, I recently had some electrical issues with my 7 which i could not fix with regard to high oil pressure and a bouncing rev counter needle. After may hours of head scratching and discussion on blatchat i gave up and called the experts at Bookatrack Caterham. Bookatrack collected my car and fixed the problems which was a broken connector in the oil pressure sender loom plug and a plastic clip which was missing from the ecu connector. So i thought i would post about what excellent service i have had from them. Chris Perry

Adam, I have done this conversion. I brought a handbrake cable off a csr from caterham. This has the correct end fittings, however it is too long. I fitted it to the car to work out the correct length of inner wire and outer casing. Then sent it back to speedy cables who shortened it and fitted a new end fitting which matched the original. If you want to re-use the existing cable, you could try contacting speedy cables who may be able to cut the old end fittings off your existing cable and fit the ones you need. When mounted at the 12 o'clock position on our de dion tubes, the golf mk4 caliper's bleed nipple is below the top of the brake cylinder. Meaning you will never get the air out of them on the car. Took me and my brother 1.5 hours to work that one out! The only way i could bleed them was to fit new flexible brake lines, so you can hold the caliper with the bleed nipple at the top off the car. I brought the brake lines from Hel as you can specify the end fitting and thread sizes. From memory, the golf calipers have a different thread where the brake line screws into the caliper in comparison to the sierras so the solid caterham de dion brake lines dont fit anyway. If you are using caterham 13" 8 spoke anthracite wheels you will have clearance issues with the inside of the rim and brake caliper body without grinding the top of the caliper of making a new de dion ear or caliper carrier. 15" 8 spoke anthracite and MB mag alloys will be ok though with no grinding. Hope this all helps! Regards, Chris Perry

Hello Jonathan and ChrisC, This morning i checked the rev counter plug earth and engine loom earths and all were ok. I had my engine upgraded from 125 to 140 bhp about two years ago and still have the old 125 bhp MBE ECU. In desperation i swapped the 140 bhp ecu for the 125 bhp ecu and the rev counter gauge stopped bouncing. I think i have an ecu problem. A eureka moment! Thank you both for your help over the last few weeks. I can feel another upgrade coming on. Regards, Chris Perry

Hello Jonathan, Yes i think it matches the car. Regards, Chris Perry

Hello Jonathan, Yes that is the wiring diagram in my build manual. Is the ground (earth) G79? Excuse my ignorance when it comes to electrical stuff and being able to read circuit diagrams. I understand hacksaws and hitting things with hammers much better. And im not ruling them out soon! Regards, Chris Perry

Hello Chris C and Jonathan, I have checked the three plugs between the chassis and engine looms and they look ok. The pins are all straight and the plugs clean. I have rigged up a long wire so i can check the continuity of the earth from the rev counter plug to the earth on the engine. There are a lot of wires on the back of the rev counter. Am i correct in saying that the green and green and white wires would be something to do with the earth to the gauge? Thanks for your continued help! Regards, Chris Perry

Hello Jonathan, Thanks for the reply. The second gauge was brand new from caterham. I swapped them by removing the gauge from the dashboard and un-plugging the gauge. Both old and new gauges do exactly the same thing. The car idles at about 1000 rpm. But the needle will start to jump to about 3000 to 4000 rpm even though there is no change in the engine revs and then drop back to 1000 rpm. Like it is being revved. The revs do not drop to 0 rpm. Thanks for your help. Regards, Chris Perry

Dear All, My electrical issues still confound me. I changed the oil pressure sender and sub-loom to the main loom. I have 5 bar of oil pressure. Result! However. The rev counter needle keeps jumping. I have checked all the earths, engine block to chassis, under the dash board near the wiper motor and front passengers side near the front lights. All are ok and sound ok when i check the continuity with a multi meter. I have also tried a new rev counter itself and also changed my battery cut off switch but the rev counter needle still jumps. The connections on to the alternator look ok, but i have not had the unit tested. Any ideas what it could be. Im am going to check the earth onto the back of the gauge and also may investigate the wheel speed sensor earth. Any other ideas would be appreciated? Regards, Chris Perry

Dear All, Thank you for your replies. It is very much appreciated. I have ordered a new gauge and sender unit from Caterham. I agree, the gauge looks a lot easier to replace than the sender unit! I checked the wheel speed sensor and the wire is intact and the speedo reads ok. With any luck it will be the gauge and i will let you know how i get on with it. Regards, Chris Perry

Hello Jonathan, Thanks for the replies. Yes i have a multimeter. But not sure what to do with it. Do i check the connections for continuity of the sender connections? I believe all the gauges are linked, so if one plays up it may cause a fault on another one. I checked all the fuses and they are ok. Thanks for your help. Chris Perry

Dear All, I once more call upon the wisdom of blatchat for enlightenment! Whilst blatting this morning my 2010 S3 1.6 Sigma engine momentarily cut out then came back to life with the oil pressure gauge reading 8 bar. I pulled over and stopped the engine, looked for leaks and checked the oil level. All was in order so i restarted the car but then the oil pressure gauge read only 1 bar at idle and did not increase with revs. Fearing doom i called the AA who confirmed there was nothing wrong with the engine's oil pressure and that it was either a faulty gauge, sender until or wiring. I 11 miles drove home but as well as the oil pressure gauge only reading 1 bar and in the red, the rev counter occasionally spiked at 5000 revs even though i was only cruising at 40 mph where 2000 revs is the norm. I think the culprit could be the gauges as my temperature gauge also under reads. I have heard other owners remark that the gauges Caterham fit could be better. Is there a direct replacement for the caterham electrical oil pressure guage or is it a fairly simple job to wire a Stack or Racetech guage on to the current Caterham plug which goes on to the gauge? Or could it be the oil pressure sender that has gone? I dont really want to fit a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Thanks in advance for any ideas. Chris Perry

Dear All, Once more I call upon the wisdom of blatchat for enlightenment. Last year i had my Sigma 125 upgraded with caterham 140 Supersport cams and ECU. Since then it always seems to run cool. Today i have replaced the thermostat and also the temperature sender near the coil pack for new parts from Caterham. The thermostat has a bleed hole with ball bearing which was installed at 12 o'clock. Alas, it is still running cool. When stationary the fan comes on at about 80 degrees and the temperature gauge does not fluctuate. But when on the move the temperature gauge can drop to about 50 degrees when i give it the beans and fluctuates with speed. I have hunted for another temperature sender on the engine but can only find one. Is a running temperature of 50 degrees something to be concerned about and do other 140 Supersports run at a similar temperature? Do i need to consider blanking off some of the radiator? Thanks in advance, Regards, Chris Perry

Hello, I am looking for a set of Caterham original equipment carbon nose cone and front plus rear wings for my 2010 metric narrow bodied S3. They do not have to be showroom condition and water staining is not a problem. No cracked or chips parts are acceptable though. Thanks, Chris Perry

Dear All, I have my Quantum One Zero one way adjustable dampers for sale which were supplied by Meteor Motorsport in June 2015. Spec is a follows: Front Dampers Wide Track, Post 96 upper damper bolt mount. Double digressive damper pistons. 7" long x 200 lbs linear Suplex Springs. Dampers and springs are all black. Rear Dampers Below the de dion tube mounting. Double digressive damper pistons. Supplied with 7" long x 200 lbs linear and 8" long x 150 lbs linear Suplex main springs together with Meteor Motorsport progressive helper springs to be used with either the 200 or 150 lbs springs. Dampers are are all black. Main springs are black, helper spring is grey. Dampers have covered approximately 5000 road miles and are in good condition. No leaking seals. Selling due to upgrading to two way adjustable dampers. Cost approximately £2200.00 inc vat in 2015. Selling for £1250.00. Buyer to collect or arrange to meet. Sold as seen, no returns accepted! Thanks, Chris Perry

Hello Martym, My first 7 was an 1.6 vx 8v. Yes the jetting as supplied by caterham can be improved. I followed the instructions on how to jet Weber DCOE on Dave Andrews website and brought the jets from Redline. http://www.dvandrews.co.uk Looking for more improvement i later took the car to a rolling road and after 1 hour they could not improve on Dave Andrews recommendations. I cant remember what i purchased from Redline, may have been the main jets and emulsion tubes. I sold the car in 2009 so cannot check for you. Hope this helps. Chris Perry