Miker7
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Everything posted by Miker7
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To just wrap this up - used the Redline website to make an inquiry late at night, quote through at 8:30am the next morning, I confirmed my address, invoice generated, payment made and confirmation of order received all within 30 minutes. Parts arrived before I'd got home from work the next day. Fantastic service. Bolt pack ZRB05 (from the build manual) is serial number 23A - Fastener Pack - Roll over bar (DeDion FIA)
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Now I've got a FIA Imperial roll bar, I'm after the bolt pack ZRB05. Caterham have no stock. Does anyone have one OR have the details of the bolts. Googling this site hasn't brought up the details of the specific pack. I'm guessing the key bolts are the cut down bolts which i think are these (but its not clear if these are metric or imperial) Bolts - FIA Roll Over Bar - Special (caterhamparts.co.uk) (can't find the delete topic button but i've had the brainwave of Redline and am now about to send off a request to them for the parts which seem to be in stock)
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Silly question, did the engine spin over faster or slower? I'm wondering if you've started and stopped it in the garage within a few seconds if you've got bore wash. Therefore no compression. It's easy to tell. With a full battery the engine cranks with a nu-nu-nu-nu sound as the starter spins and hits compression. If you've got bore wash you've got no compression so it spins really fast, more like a constant whiz sound.
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I don't know about MEMS but I've coded open source engine management. If we don't get cam signal we run batch injection and ignition. Id assume Rover did the same as a limp home mode (to be honest it will run almost as well so it's hardly a limp mode).
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IIRC A539 are the control tyre in a number of race series - eg locost.I believe they're a good tyre .I've got some on capri laser alloys i'm about to try fitting to see how they go once I stop panicking about wheel stud length.
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I didn't realise until now you could get r888r in 14" - now that does create a dilemma when it comes to replacing tyres.
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Could I take third place in the queue please
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Do we know if the tyres have been selected because they're the same size or similar / better grip levels? I'm specifically thinking of the 14" as I've got 14" wheels on my road car and "comfort" tyres doesn't inspire confidence.
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Computer wise a VERY old windows laptop that must be 15 years old and it never gets powered up. For seeing under or around things I use a wifi endoscope from amazon that connects to a tablet or phone. I originally bought it because I needed to see up our chimney so its got 5m of cable but i figured it "would be useful". Reality is its no good for pushing somewhere long distance as the cable is either too rigid or too flexible (I taped it to a chimney brush to get round this). For 99% of jobs 1m of cable would be fine. The big issue is getting disorientated as you're still relative to the ground but it can twist so down becomes up.
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The reason the ECU had two terminals is so that the ground signal goes back to the ECU which is more accurate. You could fit a two terminal coolant temperature sensor for the gauge and just use the signal terminal - assuming the sensor responds the same as the single terminal sensor.
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I can guess where this is heading - swap the sensors round and see what happens. They're only an inch (*) or so apart if i remember correctly so i doubt location will be making a difference. (* imperial chassis so this is a valid unit of measure)
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Pm being sent on the pulley
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Unfortunately as i was told by the legal team at a company a long time ago, under british law you can't disclaim your responsibilities. All those signs you see in car parks are to dissuade you from pursuing the car park owner, they don't legally indemnify them.
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I've been meaning to reach out to him as I know he helped the previous owner of my car out, id like to understand more what he did. I'm also interested in speaking to him as I've developed the code for speeduino engine management to support Rover ecus so we seem to have similar interests. I'll now add gauge magic to the list.
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Went out for a little run at lunch time. My temperature gauge is reporting around 80 degrees but when I connect to the odb2 port its reporting around 95. As I'm a computer nerd i'm assuming the odb2 port is more accurate. Any suggestions on how I can get the gauge to report the temperature more accurately or prove which is the correct (accurate) temperature? Also my fuel gauge has a mind of its own, its frequently reporting empty when i start the car. 20 mins into a run it decided to report just over half full. Cars a 01 k series.
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If i can do it with a seat base, then i can keep the adjustment mechanism and my wife has a chance to drive it (if she ever wants to). Bag seat is my fall back plan, i've already got the foam from a project 20 years ago (assuming its not gone off).
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I'm too big to sit in the drivers seat in my recently purchased seven (I knew this before I bought it). I'm currently sitting on a old blue piece of foam. I'd like to make my seat a little more professional looking. Does anyone have an old (imperial if it makes a difference) drivers seat base that is knackered which i can try to remake into something that I fit in?
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I'd second the brake fluid tester. Got one from Aldi or Lidl for about £6. Tested my new to me Caterham and it was less than 1% moisture so good (hopefully) for at least a year or two & saved me a job ....... after i'd bought the replacement fluid
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Fancy a swap for 4 hepolite xflow pistons I've had in my garage for 15 years? Id love them but I'm trying to avoid starting a k series collection having just bought my caterham. (I've got 4 xflow engines, 2 fully built and 2 in bits cause I can't help collecting bits for projects. I've also got a zetec cause it was a potential upgrade at one point).
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How do we get your guides updated. The screen shot is from a rover service manual listing much lower (and currently seems more likely torque settings)
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Unfortunately the bolts / nuts are already a lot past 10nm. I'm debating leaving them as they are, tightening up the sump and crossing my fingers for a few thousand miles. Not sure what the alternative is.
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Guess who can't sleep? Their is oil in the threads so hopefully that will save me. Wish I'd stick with 10nm now. Ho hum.
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This is the site that had me worried about the torque settings above https://caterhamsuperlight106.wordpress.com/tag/torque-settings/ I've got all bolts / nuts at 15 to 17nm and chickened out going further as it doesn't feel right.
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Foam removed and gallery modified...... However......slight to major issue. The head of one baffle thread is stripped. I've read on here that newer engines use a bolt. I've cut a M6 8.8 down to size. Now trying to decide what torque to use. Now I'm threading into the depths of the engine im worried if I get this wrong and strip the thread I've got a world of pain. I'm used to old xflow iron not Ali. Also worrying the torque listed above is too high and that's why I've stripped the thread on the stud (can't promise it's wasn't me cross threading it but I'm sure i did it finger tight earlier in the week) Ho hummm it's no fun when it's all just works ☺️
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If you get to cutting a hole, swaging it will add back some strength. You can 3d print swages these days so they're not very expensive.
