SamC
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Posts posted by SamC
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Pete, I fitted diff struts to mine last year and when I was doing so I had to remove the riveted boot panel that sits behind the seats.
I refitted it using rivnuts so that it screws in and out easily. With that removed changing the socket is a piece of cake. (As is diff oil replacement, cleaning etc.)
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I've not heard a dickybird...
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What an absolute beaut.
Bargain too…… An awful lot of car for the cash.
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I would. Mine constantly leaked until I put a non sensor cap on.
The bellows prevent leakage by sealing the reservoir whilst still allowing the fluid volume to expand and contract with piston travel, temp etc.
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Grease between the stud and the wheel hub is fine. That will help removal if it is ever needed.
The threads that protrude out of the wheel hub that the nuts are fastened onto should be dry and not have grease on them
The reason is both due to reducing thread friction, meaning the load in the stud goes up, and the stirring motion created by a rotating, loaded, wheel has an increased chance of loosening the nuts.
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You know you’ve made it when you’ve had damper settings named after you James!
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I’ve stuck one of these to my windscreen. Works a treat (unless you have an aero screen of course! 😂)
You can position it so that the phone just obscures the bonnet so you don’t lose any visibility and it’s pretty unobtrusive when there isn’t a phone on it.
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Example from a Facebook post (not mine). Mine has a small horizontal crack but no vertical.
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Yep, I agree, just warning that it appears a crack can form both vertically and horizontally in that location, so worth heading the next failure point off at the pass.
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I’ve noticed the same this winter although my crack runs perpendicular to yours along the fold line to the chassis panel.
I bonded a 90 degree doubler along the back, but seeing yours I suspect it’ll just run vertically now.
A doubler behind the hook that runs round the return looks to be the best plan then!
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If the cones are the same, your new nuts are 100% fine.
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The cone angle looks different to me? If the angle is different, that’s a big problem.
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There's no downsides in terms of strength/untightening/etc. for an over length nut, so if they look tidier, then I'd stay with them.
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Pete, are your new wheels the same thickness through the stud mounts as the old ones?
The CSR studs on the front are shorter than the ones on new Caterhams and the nuts on mine (with standard wheels) are longer than the stud length.
Im going to replace the studs on mine for longer versions at some point, but it isnt a 100% necessity. It may be in your case though if your new wheels have reduced the thread engagement.
As a minimum you will want 10mm of engagement of an M12x1.5 at 85Nm, but ideally you’d have 18mm (1.5x diameter)
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UNF (24TPI)
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(Cover the shank in copper slip or equivalent when installing to help prevent corrosion)
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They are a 5/16 x 3.25” cap head (2” shank). Caterham don’t stock them…
I’d deffo say have a go. If you can’t get the bolt to turn then bail out if you don’t fancy it, but if you can get it out it is an hours job.
(@PlastererPete Edited to include thread and shank length)
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Errr, let’s go with ‘yes’! 🤣
In theory that is correct, but in practice the lower bolt through the wishbone had to be cut out of mine on both sides. I then had to order replacement top hats (Caterham parts ref 60F008A)
If you can, soak that junction in PlusGas for several days before and liberally heat it with a heat gun to give yourself a fighting chance.
Once the pushrod is off, don’t forget to measure the eye to eye lengths before dismantling them so you can just refit them and not have to worry about re setting it up.
Once the lower bolt is out it is a straight forward job.
One thing to watch for is the bolt clearance to the rearward leg of the top wishbone. It is flippin’ tight, so make sure you put the nut on the same side of the rocker that it was before.
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Pete, they are M10x1.5 threads. Left hand thread one end, right hand the other.
Part numbers are:
Fluro GALSW10 (LH)
Fluro GASW10 (RH)Half the Caterham Parts price when bought from Autosport Bearings.
Fluro are a good brand of bearing. I fitted them to my CSR last year.
Sam
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I’ve lined my arches with the 2mm thickness option of this. It’s held up really well, stopped any stone damage and the clattering sounds on back roads are massively reduced.
Saves covering the arches in goop.
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A couple of people have asked me to print and post these to them.
PM me if you would like a set while I’m at it. £10 inc p&p
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Ref the other thread, if you want me to print you a pair, I'd be happy to for postage + a pint!
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Out of curiosity arising from this thread, and looking at how naff the banner covers looked on my car (!) I thought I’d knock up a cover out of PETG and see how it looks. It looks pretty decent for a first attempt, so I think I’m going to keep them!
I get the liability concern from @graearea, but the material is good for 70/80 Deg C and it clips on nice and firmly, whilst being easy to remove if needed. It doesn’t feel like there is much risk with them. Obviously having just done it tonight I don’t know how it would survive a mid summers trackday yet, but it’s hard to imagine it becoming a puddle.
I’d happily provide the CAD files if anyone wants to print them themselves. I’m not really up for doing loads/making money out of this but if any of the people on this thread who have needed the covers would like a pair pm me and I’d be happy to help you out.
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If you can’t get hold of the originals, they are an easy thing to 3D print if you remove the need for the hinge (ie make them easier to slot in and out of the holes.)
@graearea Generally covers all mods like this, so I’m sure he could help.
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Standard Master Cylinder Degradation
in TechTalk
Posted · Edited by SamC
@Dom Williams, Firstly, Love the filename that comes up when you open the CMM file. Glad it isn't just me that gets grief when I get 'homers' done at work! 😆
Secondly... From experience, the corrosion will have put pits in the surface. This will just give the fluid somewhere to wipe past the seal, having a more negative effect than the bore simply being oversize. Typically a hydraulic sealing bore of that size (0.7"/17.78mm) will have a maximum tolerance of 50microns ish, so yours seems on the upper end but not outlandish. You could try getting it honed out to clear up the corrosion and see how that ends up?
There is a company called Hone-All in Leighton Buzzard that are good - may be worth a shout.