Foxy Smith

It gets better and better. Thanks for the info. Alan

Bazwaz, Have you got contact details for Courtney Sport please?? Alan

Thank you very much Gentlemen.

I need ball park figures for the modulus of elasticity for mild steel as in an I profile RSJ and also for stainless steel (structural application). TIA Alan

Anthony, Using the front bottom corner of the scuttle as the datum, the centre of my cut off switch is 110mm back (x axis) and 85mm up (y axis). This is pretty central in the triangular opening of the windscreen stanchion. The other thing to watch tho' is that the bottom stanchion bolts are used to secure the switch internally, so may need to use the fixing holes to help line up and confirm switch hole is correct. Hope this helps. All the best Alan Just thought. Don't suppose you're going to put a windscreen on anyway? Edited by - Foxy Smith on 11 Jul 2003 08:40:52

Try www.cromwell-tools.co.uk or J+L Industrial Supply on 0800 66 33 55

You're not the first person who has had to take an engine out five minutes after putting it in. Its all part of the learning process. Bad luck nontheless. Are you happy it is bled properly? Also watch out for master cylinder doing funnies especially if the fluid is in a grotty condition, there is a ball valve at the bottom of the fluid reservoir that can get jammed open if there is grot in the fluid.

Hill Billy, Why not come along to the meet on Thursday night at the Six Bells East Chiddingly and see at least one car that has had its spare carrier amputated ( but not permanently). See details on thread in Chitchat.

Also meant to say, don't know how critical that gasket is but easy enough to knock one up from gasket paper using back of the bell housing as a patteren and a ball pein hammer to tap it out.

Beej, The bleed nipple is tapped into the bellhousing casting on the nearside (passenger side) symmetrical to the tapping for the connection for the pipe to the clutch master cylinder. Don't like the sound of all that swarf in there, can't see why even the roughest of workmen would'nt clear that out. For peace of mind I am sure I would take the cover plate off just to eyeball the fly wheel. Any doubts replace the lot. Balance the cost of a new friction plate and cover plate (less than £100??) against your time and effort getting the engine out to say nothing of getting it back in, a pleasure yet to come!! Before you take the cover plate off check for allignment marks or dot puch your own cos sure as sure it will have been balanced. For clutch plate allignment on reassembly appropriate socket on short extension bar with masking tape to shim up as necessary works well.

Undo the 4 19mm head bolts, and tap off the bell housing with a rubber mallet. At this point all the hydraulic fluid pi**es all over the floor. With the bell housing up on a bench release the larger circlip and use a big socket and extension bar and gently drift out the whole thing. Fitting is the reverse as Mr Haynes says.

Wouldn't be Danehill would it Hill Billy? Spotted a seven out of the corner of my eye on the way back from the Coach and Horses on Sunday. Alan

IMHO the hydraulic clutch is superior to cable for many reasons it's just a pi**er when the slave seals go. The word is the new seals/piston assembly is much superior to the original and less likely to be a problem. My car was 11 years old when the slave gave up it was just unfortunate we were hundreds of miles from home in the South of France when it happened. If you are local'ish and want a hand let me know, I'm in Ardingly in West Sussex. 01444 892555 Alan

Its a Caterham only part, so get direct from Caterham or Redline. If your car is pre (I think) '96 replace the whole unit i.e. not just the seals, costs about £60. Good oportunity to give the bellhousing tank a good clean out!! and have a look at the clutch while your at it. You also need a decent set of circlip pliers as there are two meaty circlips to wrestle with.

The Comprex is/was quite an interesting device. Strictly speaking its a pressure wave supercharger. It has a rotor driven by the engine crankshaft as per superchargers but also uses exhaust gas to compress the induction charge. This allows it to be efficent at low engine RPM. Somehow the compressing exhaust gas manages not to mix or heat the induction charge and is scavenged prior to the induction charge being admitted to the cylinder. Used on lorry diesel engines and as Bare said on Ferrari formula 1 engine way back when. Mid 80's??

If they are still legal after a week then they are only soft. Alan

Depends how you want it. I was told that some engineering students in years gone by once calculated the optimum settings for a Seven chassis and the answer was 22.75 minutes toe in. Track oriented people seem to like toe out for better turn in. I do lots of motorway miles so I like toe in for straight line stability and lack of tram lining. Weight of engine has to be a factor too, consider the different requirements of a Vx vs a Fireblade. I reckon once you have a baseline, eg wheels parallel there's no harm in trialling different settings based on counting threads or rotations of the track rod ends to find what you preferences are. Oh yes, tyres make a difference too, I run 021s for winter/touring and 032s for summer, without changing the tracking changing to 032s makes the car much more sensitive to road uneveness and tramlining. I reckon as long as you are not extreme there is no wrong answer to your question.

Nick, I've got pretty much the same set up as you. Raceco silencer made a big difference to exhaust noise and I would thoroughly recommend one. Still leaves the horrendous induction roar which sometimes I love and sometimes makes me cringe. Can't say I'm qualified to advise on what you do about this but air box with remote intake like the Reverie(sp) box for R500's could be one direction to go in. The other thought I'd had was to glue accoustic blanket to the underside of the bonnet to stop it acting like a giant loudspeaker cone. I'm reluctant to change the K+N's as they look right for my cars age and afterall they are very good filters. Alan

Match ?

Hoopy, What you need to do is remove the brake calipers , two bolts, but keep the pipework intact. Release the hub carrier/upright whatever you call it from the bottom wishbone, single nut. If you back off the locknut one the top ball joint you can now wind the whole thing in or out to adjust your camber without having to pop that taper joint. By the way I don't take credit for thinking this one out it's a Peter Carmichal idea. There also was a neat adjustable joint that I think Blackbird motorsport developed.

Dynamos also need voltage regulators whereas alternators are self regulating(I think)

Anthony, My e-mails to you keep getting bounced back. Basically I'm saying yes please will take alternator at £40. My Email is brookhsenursery@aol.com My address:- Brookhouse Nursery, Hammingden Lane, Ardingly,West Sussex, RH17 6SR Please advise as to where to send cheque Alan

Anthony YHM

Just to contradict the above, the gaiters can be got as spares from Redline. But also just to repeat my earlier post, you don't need to pop the the top ball joint to adjust camber.

Depends on what type of floats you have. With the older round brass type the settings are 15mm droop and 7.5 with needle and seat just touching. With the plastic floats its different and I can't remember what the settings are which is ironic cos' my carbs run plastic floats.