Graham Hutton

I'm feeling like I need to try some more combinations to work out the optimum! In my SV with a windscreen, it is great with no crash helmet and the sidescreens on, but if I put my helmet on it is horrible and my head bounces around like a windsock! If I take the doors off and drive with my helmet it is great too but completely unmanageable without a helmet as you can hardly breath at speed. So, Has anyone got any experience of driving with half doors, a windscreen and no helmet? And has anyone got some old half doors for an SV I could try/buy? I guess the only other option is to go for an Aeroscreen. I'm keen to give that a go too but it does rather commit me to driving everywhere in a helmet. Do people switch between the screen/aeroscreen regularly and if so, is it a quick job? I've assumed it might be fiddly with the heating screen connectors etc. Lastly, whilst I am sure the wind deflectors on the side of the windsceen stanchions may be an answer, I don't like the look of them. What a ramble for which I apologise but I would welcome any thoughts. G

I absolutely agree and the noise in mine has always been worst in 4th gear on overrun. I put the redline MTL oil in over the winter and i'd say it is about 20% quieter as a result. ie, still bloody noisy :-)

I've had the CORE 1 way adjustable upgrade on my 310R SV which is good. The front feels amazing but I'm not settled on the rear settings yet and I am interested to know what settings anyone on here might use? I have been running at -14 on the rear but there were some pretty big whacks up the arse on the Taffia last weekend. I appreciate everyone has different tastes and weights but I thought it'd be interesting to know what others are doing :-) I'm going to try some different settings on the same road as a test track when I get a moment next weekend. Thanks....

Ooooo that Rapfix one does look nice! I notice it says the PCD for the bolts is 50.8mm Any idea of the PCD on the ones??

Does anyone know if the bolt spacings on the go race boss are the same as the standard raceline one that came on my car? I don't like the slack that the standard quick release boss has and was thinking of changing it. However, I might not bother if it means buying a new steering wheel too! I've also been thinking of getting a leather steering wheel too so that I don't clog my suede one up when pootling around between trackdays. Decisions decisions! Anyone know how the diameter fo the wheels are measured btw? The suede mom that came on my 310R SV definitely isn't 260 but it doesn't seem to be 280mm either unless you measure to some spurious point? Outside diameter? Centre of rim? Anyhow, i appreciate that was all a rambling stream of consciousness but any comments warmly received. Oh, and are there any other great boss options?

Ian - I've been trying to email you back but your mailbox is full so no more private messages can go through. Can you get in touch again? Thanks Graham

Having just upgraded to some snazzy new CORE adjustable suspension, I have a full set of height adjustable bilsteins which I have just removed today. They have done just under 6000miles and are in fine condition other than a little bit of light surface corrosion. Only problem is that they weigh a tonne and I live in Exeter! Anyone interested? Any sensible offer considered. Graham

thanks everyone :-)

Thanks Steve. I notice they are a reasonable amount cheaper elsewhere but they are available in different gap settings. Do you know what the correct gap is? 0.660mm? Thanks Graham

What plugs do you guys use? I have a 310R with the variable timing and was just going to use the ones from the caterham parts website https://caterhamparts.co.uk/spark-plugs/2376-spark-plug-all-sigma-variants.html Anybody got any recommendations? Also what gap do you set them to? Many thanks Graham

I had a total nightmare trying to replace the dust cover. In the end I made a tool on a lathe to press fit the new cover cover on but it was still ridiculously tight even after filing the rebate on the ball joint a bit. Even being careful I got the 3 replacement covers!!! No chance of doing it without removing the balljoint from the chassis so the tracking needs checking anyhow afterwards. I would definitely just get a new ball joint next time and save the hassle. Sorry to contradict some of the other excellent contributors here but that was my experience.

Thanks Si! I'm looking forward to the upgrade. I saw a picture of the rear of my car (310R on normal bilsteins) at Graham Hill bend last year and it looked like it had the same roll as a renault 5!!

Hi! I think I am going to commit to upgrading my suspension to some Nitrons and that got me thinking about how easy or difficult it is to change the settings on a track day. My car is mainly used on the road and so I imigine myself rocking up to Brands and needing to make a few click adjustment. Looks like it'd be easy on the front but is it a wheels off job on the rear? I'll be ringing meteor motorsport tomorrow but if anyone wants to shed any light beforehand it'd be appreciated. Thanks :-)

Take some tools too. On mine they asked me to remove the pedal box cover so they could inspect the throttle and brake linkages. Overall it was a terrific experience and I was please not to get wet as I had left my doors at home. 2 years ago now and the time has flown by. Enjoy!!

Thanks chaps, all very helpful. Replacement switch arrived in the post today which I have just fitted and...........it makes no difference! I 'll have to wait until the weekend to delve into the motor further. At least I am armed with all your wiring info though. I'll report back

Yes, that's it, exactly like that

Thanks chaps. I will have mother look when I get home from work but given the low cost I have ordered another switch to try. It is the modern switch as the car is only 2 years old. No work has been done on it by anyone, the wipers simply stopped working mid use. I have the wiring diagram for the car but I guess it'll either be the switch or the motor as all the fuses are ok. from the diagram you posted, would you expect only one of the connectors in the connector plug to be live when the ignition is on and the switch not connected? It looks that way but there are definitely two with 12V, on connectors 1 & 3 I think. thanka again

Me again! Having stripped things out ready to remove the wiper motor I thought I'd do some checks on the switch because that's be a hell of a lot easier to change! Anyhow, if I remove the big white connector block on the back of the switch, two of the terminals are live when the ignition is on and two are not. However, if I connect it to the switch, all 4 are live all of the time regardless of what position the switch is turned to. Does that sound iffy to you guys?

That is so helpful, many thanks!! I'll pull it out fully so I can see the part number and see if I can get one easily but if not, putting me in contact with the race teams would be amazing. Thanks again

Do any of you lovely people have any experience of replacing a wiper motor? Mine is dead and I notice that the whole wiper assembly from Caterham Part is £295! It'd be good if it were possible to buy just the motor. I'm going to join a yoga class to develop enough flexibility to do the job now :-)

Great video as always, many thanks for sharing. I originally filled my diff in the same way as you when I built the car but I think this time I'm going to try sucking it out with a big syringe and refilling the same way. Once I rinsed the diff oil out of my hair I'll let you know how I got on.......

That's really helpful Stuart. My oil is arriving any day now and I'll be doing my diff and gearbox. Diff oil stinks!!!! Anyhow, loved all of your videos, brilliant! Graham

Thanks Wrighpayne, I don't think it does but I will check!

It's a 2 year old 310R SV. I have the all the wiring diagrams and a multimeter but not spent much time fault finding yet. I'd be surprised if it was the switch given they stopped working whilst running. I will nonethless check it out. If it isn't the switch, isn't the fuse and all the cabling to the motor seems OK then I can't think what else it could be other than the motor itself??

I wonder if any of you could offer some advice. My wipers won't work! All fuses are intact and the washers squirt OK which I understand are on the same fuse. The wipers did work but I ran them across the dry screen whilst checking the length of a new blade and after 2 wipes they stopped. Is there a relay of some description somewhere that I am missing, maybe a fuse in the wiper motor itself or is it likely that the motor just got overloaded and expired? The car is only 2 years old. Any advice appreciated as I'd like to contort my 6'3" frame upside down in the footwell for the minimum amount of time to fix it. Who needs yoga!