Rich Goddard

Just had the uprated front brake kit fitted (incl master cylinder) so the standard kit is for sale: solid discs, 2-pot radial calipers (incl Mintex pads), and standard master cylinder. All from a 2015 car, which has done 20k miles. All fully functioning prior to upgrade. All components look in very good condition to me. £250 + whatever the P&P costs. (Or collection from Newcastle upon Tyne)

Jonathan, thanks for heads-up on the gasket. I did think about seeing if it could be filled. Problem is the damage is in 2 parts, each about 6-8mm dia about 5mm apart. One of them has a definite small indent/hole in the outer surface, so could possibly be filled/repaired. But the other one has no such indent/hole - it's almost like the impact has caused an internal circular 'chip' or delamination, which I'd be surprised if it was fillable. I might be wrong. Maybe I should seek advice of windscreen repairer first.

Cheers Ian, I didnt think of that - but problem is I have studs for my half hood on the outside so they'd end up on inside.

I've a small chip in the driver's half of my heated windscreen. Not in my line of sight but I'd prefer to take the glass out and flip it so it's on the passenger side. (And move the centre mirror back inside of course) Never changed a screen before, is there any reason why I can't flip it? (Eg are the heat-trace connections polarity-sensitive?) Thanks, Rich

Thanks a lot Stu, yes it does look similar to #12. Slight difference with mine is one of the connector-ways is "D" shaped (other 2 are square). After many hours trawling late last night think I've stumbled on a match for mine: a "Tamiya L6.2" connector. Almost exclusively from China, only stockist in UK I could find was www.componentshop.co.uk. For the benefit of others in future I'll report back if it's the right fit. If it is right, seems like an obscure connector for CC to choose....unless of course these looms are made up in China. (Chinese spec sheet: https://www.lhecn.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/C6201C6202L6.2.pdf)

Resurrecting this one as I'm looking to install shift lights (in 2015 SuperSport R) and have found the same connector as in post #12. Hiding up behind my wiper switch. With photos below (including imprint in blu-tack) can anyone identify the type of male connector I need please? The female pins look like ~2mm diameter. One of the 'connections' is "D" shaped, the other two are square. It's been very tightly tied and bound up with the loom, no slack on it at all, and going to be very difficult to remove this female connector to replace with different type....so path of least resistance (and swearing) is finding corresponding male type if possible. I've searched internet but no joy. Cheers, Rich

Thanks chaps. That really helps put it in context for me. I'll try not to lose sleep over it!

#2, thanks Jonathan. I should've added, I use a battery master switch so should be no other drain. The CTEK is wired directly into the battery.

I've just fitted a hard-wired CTEK charging socket (photo below) which has a built-in battery indicator panel. There is no obvious way of disabling the indicator. Electrical theory etc isn't my thing really so can someone with better knowledge please help me understand what impact the continuous current drain (1.5mA; 1.1Ah per month) is having on my battery? (I have the standard 53034 Banner, 30Ah). In others words how long before the charge has dropped to a level where it might struggle to start the Duratec? Cheers, Rich

Interesting new information James. (Well, new to me anyway) However, I've just plugged my ECU in and been into Easimap 6 and I can't find the "idle speed status" or "target idle speed" panels so I think that may be because my ECU is a locked 992 unit.

#110: Yes I did, thanks John. I gave it a thorough flush-through twice, getting rid of an accumulation of dirty oily gunk. And as a result I've since installed the oil breather re-route (thanks to your other thread/parts-list on this) to the catch tank to hopefully avoid future oil deposition in the plenum. While doing that I realised that the throttle blade only sticks when the blade is fully closed and comes into (light) contact with the housing....and I determined that with the idle stop screw set to a position which allows enough air flow for my car to idle (albeit in a lumpy way) it never fully closes and so doesn't make enough contact to stick....which I suppose is obvious really.

#108 Alastair, I'm very interested to hear what info you manage to get out of CC. Does anyone else with a Duratec (plastic plenum, standard locked ECU) find it impossible to permanently set their TPS/idle position to anything less than Site 1.0? By slightly slotting the fixing holes on my TPS, I can rotate it a small amount and get Easimap to temporarily show Site 0.0, but then every time I use the battery master switch to power-down and power-up it seems to reset and defaults back to Site 1.0. Interested to know whether others with similar set-up have the same issue, or whether I’ve got a hardware or software problem. Is it a standard default reset setting by CC? After a LOT of trial & error, rude words and steep learning curve (thanks to threads like this) I've managed to get my car to start and idle from cold, but it's pretty lumpy.

Wanted: very good condition / nearly-new single throttle body for Duratec. (For fitment to plastic plenum, if that makes any difference?).

Thanks for the advice chaps. It's a brand new TPS, so I'm going to try find a nearly-new throttle body to fit to see if that's the issue. Good point James about possibility of an over-tightened clamp on the air intake. Think that could be the case. It was still sticky when fully closed with the air intake removed, so might be permanently distorted. I'll put a post in "Wanted" but if anyone reading this has a spare throttle body in very good nick (maybe after fitting TBs upgrade) then I might be interested in it. Cheers

Hi Hijacking the post slightly, but it’s a related query. Just acquired a 2015 Supersport R (with 210bhp conversion). It won’t idle from cold without some throttle…just stalls. Have fitted new uprated TPS and coil sub loom as a precaution. So, reading advice here and other threads I’m aiming to reset the throttle position at idle, because I assumed it was just set wrong. I’ve made sure throttle cable has slack, wound the stop screw right down and plugged into Easimap. And was going to adjust back up from there. But I'm getting some results I don’t understand. At rest the throttle normally sits at Site 1.0 (~0.86v), but when I press on the throttle mechanism (cable retaining part) against the stop screw I can get it to read Site 0.0. Another time I plugged in I was getting 1.05v at Site 1.0 sitting on the stop screw. Very inconsistent results. I’m now thinking I must be doing something fundamentally wrong but don’t know what. Also sometimes when i open the throttle and let it return back to rest on the stop it’s resting at ~Site 2, up to ~Site 3 even. I thought it might be a sticky valve blade so I flushed a light-ish coating of accumulated black gunk out of that. Very clean now. Made no difference. The valve does still appear to get very slightly stuck when it’s completely closed. It operates very smoothly otherwise, from being just cracked open to fully open. I read above CtrMint (#71) that you’d set Throttle Angle at 1.21v, and this corresponded to Site 0.0 for you. If I adjust to read around 1.25v it’s showing Site 8.7. Is that wrong? I’m a bit lost with this and would appreciate any advice. I’ve clearly got a problem somewhere but don’t know where to start. Thanks, Rich

Hi Graham I found this useful from the MX5parts website (How to refresh the transmission on a Mk1/Mk2 MX5 - MX5 Parts Info), and the You Tube vid embedded within: https://www.mx5parts.co.uk/information/how-to-refresh-the-transmission-on-a-mk1-mk2-mx5/ Rich

Thanks Alan, PM sent.

Thanks very much KnifeySpoony and Jonathan I'll keep on the hunt for a 360 graph. Rich

Hi Can anyone share power & torque curve graphs for a 360 both before and after conversion to 420? Preferably the standard CC conversion, without any independent/third-party tuning/mapping. Cheers. Rich.

So all fixed and back on the road again. Turns out it already had a head saver shim plate and original/older style MLS gasket fitted, and looks a lot like the combustion gases were leaching between the saver shim and the MLS gasket. The hot gas had blistered the coating on the underside of the shim and the top of the gasket leading to a waterway at cylinder 1. I'm hoping I caught it early enough. Head looked (and tested, by specialist) fine after cleaning up. I don't know what year the shim/MLS improvements were introduced, and whether they were added to the later new K engines (mine is 2004). Either that or the original elastomer gasket had previously failed/replaced.

Thanks very much for your help Andrew, and the offer of an ECU fix. Turns out ECU was fine and there were a couple of breaks in rotten wiring within the injector sub-loom running below the intake manifold (damage must've happened when manifold was removed, pulling loom out of the way). New individual cables added and re-wrapped. Someone has since told me it's a fairly common problem for older cars and some folk been known to extend the injector connections and move the sub loom cabling from beneath the manifold and tie to chassis side-tube out of the way of repeated heating/cooling As I said I'm not so knowledgeable on auto-elecs but I'm surprised it was still idling ok, but just not responding to throttle. Anyway, sorted now. just in time for Croft TD on Friday. Cheers again.

Done some work on the engine this week (inlet manifold off, cam cover & carrier off, sump off etc) and now it's all back together the throttle won’t pick up from its steady idle. I should say auto-electrics isn’t my thing at all really. First tried a replacement TPS without success, but then established there’s no power / signal to the TPS. Something must’ve been knocked or damaged in the recent work but having had a thorough hunt I’m at a loss. Any suggestions very welcome on where I should refocus my attention, which part of the loom or sub-loom, and any test I can do to determine more accurate location? (1.6 K EU3) Thanks Rich

Hi Mark, just these little dudes from Classic Car LEDs: BA9S 233 989 SIDELIGHT GAUGE DASH CLOCK INTERIOR DOME LIGHT LED UPGRADE. Super-simple straight swap. Not much 'escape time' involved here I'm afraid! Rich

Haha great thread! Love my time in the garage....Radio 5 on, maybe a beer on the go (but I do need a fridge in there). I find it especially 'therapeutic' after a crap day in the office. This is what I've farted and faffed around with over last 2 years. Some most definitely 'unnecessary', some slightly more so. Think the most satisfying was stripping and overhauling the gearshift lever (using CL7C tech guide). Dragged it out for a few evenings last winter, with a very satisfying result....went from being quite 'sticky' to riflebolt-like. Bleed ‘T’ fitted at heater. Replaced thermostat New rear badge Aero fuel filler cap LED headlamp inserts (JAL) Ignition toggle switch – replaced switch and flip-cover All gauges new rubber ring seals New water temp sender Moved fixed passenger Tillett seat back Quaife gear-lever bearing, grease and fit rubber gaiter Re-fitted loose speedo sender Replaced corroded exhaust clamp with stainless Harness QR box overhauled, including ‘handles’ powder coated red Painted nosecone “7” grille, and mesh. New black 6sp gearknob Fit net map pocket Tunnel pocket Scuttle IVA trim Pedals adjusted forward Heel & toe throttle pedal extension Pedal stops (clutch and throttle) Tillett seat rubber edge-trims Re-covered Tillett headrest pads, new badges Replace wiper blades Fuel and water gauges LED bulbs Stack mechanical oil gauge and hose Fit armrests Phone holder bracket Dry sump oil scavenge hose change New door hinges and pins Carbon battery master switch cover Exhaust primary-collector retainer springs replaced Replace front indicator cones (both broke during strip & grease headlamp mounts) ECU re-mapped by K-Maps New battery (Yuasa U1) Union flag badges on bonnet Front ARB – removed, cleaned, new boots, new brackets. Replace fuel sender gasket top of tank Replace fuel line grommet through boot support bracket Refitted boot liner with anti-vib foam Third brake light LED Wedges for reverse and fog lights Front upper trackrod end boots QED remote thermostat. Watts link replace rod ends. Rear ARB – replaced drop links.

Thanks Dave, Paul & Andrew, much appreciated chaps. That seems conclusive then, no other cause for air to be drawn/forced into the system other than past the fire-ring. I'll find out for sure in a week or so when Jeff @ HWR Motorsport strips it down.