Rich Goddard

I know there’s loads on this in BC…over the last 8 weeks reckon I’ve read all of it. Truly an outstanding ‘encyclopaedia' of 1000's of years of combined experience!!! But, I’m still fishing for an explanation and DIY solution before committing £££££ for a fix. After periods of fairly spirited driving I’m getting very high pressure in my coolant system. After a trackday at Croft noticed the expansion tank almost full, although none of the coolant had been forced out (yet)….there was a small air pocket. Immediately after any driving the silicone hoses are rock-hard, and even after letting it cool for 3 hours or so the pressure when I ease the cap off is very high, forcing the coolant out…fast. Surely that’s not right. I’m well aware of the HGF issues with K-series (and in this case potential fire-ring damage causing a one-way path for compressed combustion gas) but wondering if they’re any other causes I can investigate for air being drawn/forced into the cooling system before I have it checked-in for stripping down. (Although I’m ‘ok’ as a car DIY-er, changing a HG is probably just beyond my knowledge/facilities….think it’s removing the cambelt/pulleys etc and reassembling all that accurately that's shaking my confidence). Thing is, I’m not experiencing any other symptoms. No white smoke on start-up, no emulsified oil anywhere. No apparent drop in performance. No external leaks anywhere. No overheating….stays around 80-85DegC constantly…that seems odd to me if there’s air getting in the system. Exception to that was immediately after a session at Croft on a hot day when the water temp peaked around 100DegC as I pulled into pits….that was first time I noticed the full bottle. My 7 has: 1.6 K-series QED top-hose stat housing with 82DegC stat (OEM stat ‘guts’ removed); LF cooling mod (Sept '12); QED bypass connects into the submarine stub (made redundant after the LF mod); Heater.I’ve tried the obvious and cheap solution, tried 2 new best-quality expansion bottle caps. No change. Cleaned out the gunged-up jiggle valve on the plastic plenum in case that was stopping air escaping from the head, or an open path for air being forced back into the head from the pressurised tank. No change. Pretty confident I’ve a filling technique which avoids air locks. Have bleed T’s in the top heater hose and at the QED stat bypass T-piece. Also bleed screw at the top of the vertical tank on the Radtec radiator. Heater gets hot, top hoses and rad top get hot. I’ve tested for combustion gas in the system at the bleed T’s at the heater and the QED stat connection….all negative so far (although going to try different method). Any advice very gratefully received……

So I’ve eventually had the cams identified from the hand-stamp by Kent Cams as one of their profiles, DH1020. Apparently same profile as Rover RS97101 (whatever that is). Lift: 9.00mm Duration: @0.1mm 286degrees; @1mm 211 degrees. Kent have also said this cam profile was just supplied direct to Janspeed/PTP as builders/suppliers of the K to Caterham, Lotus etc. so may have been a factory install rather than aftermarket upgrade as I’d assumed. Anyone any experience of these being used before? Seem to have less lift but more duration than the SS cam. Beyond my technical knowledge but I suppose that comes with pros and cons. Does anyone know if there are ECU map options to suit these?

Cheers Oily. Whipped the cover off and got the photos below. INLET: (including hand-stamp "KCDH1020" if that means anything) EXHAUST:

I’m trying to establish what cams I have in my 1.6 K series, because the paperwork I got with the car has no record of the upgrade. I do know it was a standard Roadsport engine when factory-built. When it was in the garage having work done recently I asked the guy to try and ID them and take some photos. He measured exhaust lift at 8.8mm, and inlet at 9.5mm (but I haven't got 100% confidence in that). He thought they were Kent, but having been sent the photos Kent said they’re not. Unfortunately, the photos aren’t great, but do show what I now know is a Rover part-code stamped on (LGC106970) which I understand is the code for a 'blank' camshaft casting (?). Not sure whether that visible stamp is on my exhaust, or inlet side. Can anyone help ID my cams? Or does anyone know whether the Caterham-supplied Supersport cams were ground from the Rover LGC106970 blanks? Thanks, Rich /sites/default/files/images/users/50443/Cam%203.jpg /sites/default/files/images/users/50443/Cam%202.jpg /sites/default/files/images/users/50443/Cam%201.jpg

It's the black powder coated ally version. CC part number 30G022A

Perfect condition. Can send photos if you are interested. CC part number 30G022A £50 + postage. Thanks, Rich

I'm using the Comma Red stuff, same as what was in it when I got it.

Thanks 7Wonders. They're 250 lb Eibach springs on SL wide track. Please can you explain what you mean by spacing the individual bobbins? Cheers. I'm thinking of trying 'waisted' bobbins rather than the standard cylindrical type. Might absorb a bit more?

Thanks Jonathan. It weeps at the top corner where one or two of the horizontal veins meet the vertical side tank. After the first leak I read on the forum about his, and I've used various numbers/thickness of steel washers to take out any vertical-plane misalignment in the 4 chassis brackets so that it didn't "twist" the rad when I nipped it up. (Or so I thought)

Bought a 1.6K SS a few months ago and have since suffered 2 (very minor but annoying) rad weeps. Had one professionally sealed and pressure tested, but now have another. I notice the type of rad fitted is noted on CC Parts site as "not to be used on the road with race springs fitted". (RADIATOR ALLOY TRIPLE PASS K-SERIES ENGINES. Ref 73159) Obviously with stiffer springs make the rad want to shake itself to bits on cr@ppy roads. Can anyone recommend a suitable rad for use on a (mainly) road car with race springs? And/or more flexible bobbins? Also, does the rad need to be bolted up tight to the frame, or would it be ok to leave a small amount of movement in the mountings? Cheers, Rich

HaHa yeh, not the best advert, but thankfully that ain't mine.

Very good, no problems at all with my phone at least (heavier one might be different). The Bellini clip is very strong and nice grippy rubber on the jaws.

Taken plenty of advice from this forum, so thought I'd share a bit back. My own solution to the mobile/satnav holder question. (For all I know this could've been posted on BC before, but I didn't see it). Not everyone's cup of tea of course, but works for me on the occasions I use my phone for satnav. Basically it's just a 'tab' that pops out from under the dash, everything else hidden, and I clip on a phone holder whenever I need it. As the photos below show, 2 components required: 1. Clip-on holder. (I used Belkin F7U017bt) 2. A steel angle (50mm x 75mm) - I used a 2mm thick stainless masonry tie, flat bar, bent to 90Deg, with a red silicone debonding sleeve on (just for neater finish and visibility but might change to black sleeve. Figured this would also prevent vibration noise, and it does). Got this from Speedy Fixings, search "Stainless Safe End Debonded Flat Tie". Sure there's plenty of other suppliers. I drilled a 4mm hole through the angle, put 3mm pilot through the chassis tube behind the dash and used a single self-tapper to secure. It's firm, but if it had some 'wobble' movement in it I was going to put 2 screws through. Could use pop rivets I suppose, but screws easy to remove. The long end of the angle is sitting against the back of the dash and up against the underside of the fan switch so gives it some 'bracing'. When clipped in, the phone position is just low enough so doesn't obscure the fuel gauge or switches, but high enough not to hinder gear changing at all. Larger phones than my iphone 12 Mini may be a problem though. (The smashed phone in the photo is one of the kids' old ones btw, not mine!) /sites/default/files/images/users/50443/phone%20holder%201.jpg /sites/default/files/images/users/50443/phone%20holder%202.jpg /sites/default/files/images/users/50443/phone%20holder%203.jpg /sites/default/files/images/users/50443/phone%20holder%204.jpg /sites/default/files/images/users/50443/phone%20holder%205.jpg /sites/default/files/images/users/50443/phone%20holder%206.jpg

Thanks for the replies everyone. Roger, I've stuck in photos of the primaries below - does this help ID'ing the system? Yes, I did wonder whether the bolted flange had been done to allow a cat section to be swapped in. I have paperwork from previous owners, but not related to the exhaust. Cheers, Rich /sites/default/files/images/users/50443/primaries%202.jpg /sites/default/files/images/users/50443/prim%202%20rot%20in%20phone.jpg /sites/default/files/images/users/50443/prim%201%20rot%20in%20phone.jpg

Hi I'm hoping someone can help me identify the make / type of exhaust on my 1.6K S/S? Unable to find any images exactly like it on the interwebs. Thanks, Rich /sites/default/files/images/users/50443/ex1.jpg /sites/default/files/images/users/50443/ex2.jpg /sites/default/files/images/users/50443/ex3.jpg /sites/default/files/images/users/50443/ex4.jpg

Same problem with an old & cracked scavenge hose. I've just got a length of 1" Suction & Delivery hose (100S4-16) from Pirtek. About £10 vs CC's £39. Does anyone anyone know how easy this is to change? Looks straightforward, but things rarely are as simple as they seem! I've got the standard K dry sump kit, no external oil tank, (so using bell-housing tank) so does that mean all the oil will drain when I disconnect the hose, or will it remain in the bell-housing? Also, was thinking of getting things warmed up beforehand, to make the old hose more malleable to get off, or is that a bad idea? Cheers, Rich /sites/default/files/images/users/50443/tempsnip.png

Hi, both of my original Caterham harness quick release turn-buckles have seen much better days....red paint chipped to bits and looking pretty bashed and knackered. According to Corbeau they (Luke) have discontinued these and have replaced them with the rather cheap looking (imho) new version below.... /sites/default/files/images/users/50443/luke%202.jpg Does anyone know where I can get a pair of the original style replacement red turn-buckle handles same as this below......? Don't need the whole QR box, just the red handle parts. /sites/default/files/images/users/50443/luke%201.jpg Thanks, Rich.

Hi, I'm a relative newbie and looking for a recommendation for a trusted mechanic / garage in the Tyneside or Northumberland area. Any suggestions most welcome! Thanks.