David aka Blue7

Plus I think SB47 were the first to make them, based on a design by a member here who designed something similar as a sun shade while touring the US (I think?). There was a feature in an old copy of LF

Quoting Roger Ford: 

Thanks Roger

Quoting Roger Ford: 

Yes, it's to limit the voltage, and therefore the current. The "forward voltage" is descibed on the Maplin web page as "9.6V (11.2V) ". I assume 11.2 is the maximum it can take. Any LEDs can be overdriven, but the current taken (and therfore power usgae) increases rapidly with voltage. You can get away with a lot of extra voltage for a short time, or a little extra for a long time, but eventually it will overheat and burn out. You can probably get away with 12v from a static battery, but you won't get away with the 14.4 volts that you'd get out of your alternator for very long (been there - when I first fitted one I had no resistor, about half the LEDs had gone after one session).

 

Thanks for your very good explanation Roger I have just bought and fitted one of these 12 v. led rain lights from Car Builder Solutions here

 

I emailed them to enquire if I needed to wire it through a resistor like their Respak2 25 watt here and they replied saying it was unnecessary and to just wire it into the brake light circuit.

 

Your comments have made me think that I maybe should wire it through a resistor but the Maplin one you are discussing seems to be 9.6 v. whereas this one is 12 v. ?

 

Incidentally, I was not looking forward to trying to split the junction box to fit the CC spur into the brake light loom, having done so on my last 7 it is so difficult to split the box with one hand and just about impossible for me to get both hands to it. However, I discovered 2 unused female spade connections close to the junction box on the loom so I tried connecting to these and to my delight and relief they provide a connection for a 3rd brake light

Quoting Ian B: 

 

I remember him, Ray's brother in The Kinks

Quoting Belper Cat: 

 

I bought the Evo Mk V lock nuts part no. BGO/E for my 2008 CSR. As said above, don't buy the CC ones, their Mountney nuts are really quite useless. The cap removal tool does not work and the removal plunger snapped on first attempt to use it (both plastic). Furthermore, I reckon it would be quite easy to force a smaller size socket over the nut to remove it.

 

I contacted Julian Maddison at Evo Automotive for advice about the correct nuts

 

Julian Maddison

Tel 01908 64 65 66

Fax 01908 64 63 62

email

 

 

 

 

 

 

Quoting Titanium7: 

 

I have used both and both have been effective and far superior to the substance CC use which is for holding windscreens in place. It is quite remarkable that CC will still not admit that there is a problem with the inadequacies of the substance they use for bonding wing to stay. I am on my 2nd CSR now in 5 years, both wings came off the first one and nearside came off the latest one within a few months of taking delivery. A polite letter to Graham MacDonald on the subject in July 2012 remains unanswered, which does nothing for his reputation IMO, let alone that of CC. Build quality and customer relations are two issues CC are going to have to come to terms with and improve upon if they think that they are going to be able to survive in a very competitive market.

 

Back to the question, Sikaflex is the real deal, much more expensive but easier to apply because it does not have the sagging properties of Tigerseal which is very susceptible to gravity and drips down all over the place.

Andy, is your immobiliser the proximity type with a transponder on the key ring? If so, with key inserted and switched on, take hold of the transponder between thumb & forefinger and point it up towards the aerial wire which is usually coiled around the ignition barrel, this should disarm it ... hopefully? I have had the same problem with both my CSR's although the present one is not quite so temperamental. The problem can be solved by uncoiling the aerial from around the ignition barrel and allowing it to hang down a bit.

 

Hope this works for you so you can get out on Christmas day 😬

I'm in Aberdeen so too far also but I can thoroughly recommend them. They are much more comfortable and provide a better more reclined driving position. One of my passengers remarked that they were a similar position to the seats fitted to his glider. They are fitted to my CSR which doesn't have a removable steering wheel but I have no problems getting in and out. The holes for the seat belts do allow a lot more wind to hit the back of the neck but it just means wearing a buff in a cold wind.

I have only just completed this operation on my CSR which is only a few months old having lost both on my previous CSR. On the previous car I used Tigerseal which did the job but it is very runny and drips down making it quite a messy operation. This time I have used sikaflex 292i which is not runny and very easy to use and spread.

 

Because of the shape of the CSR wing I couldn't get the 12mm bighead cable fasteners to straddle the stay correctly and could not get the 15mm bigheads. So I have glued a bighead fastener to the wing either side of the stay and when dry I have fed a heavy duty 10mm wide cable tie between the two bigheads securing the stay in the middle so now glued and cable tied.

 

I have also glued 4 bighead ties to either side of the stay on the intact wing and run 2 10mm cable ties through and across the stay so that should keep the other one in place.

 

I like your P clip idea though, hadn't thought of that but the P clip might sit too high on the stay with a CSR pushing the front section down towards the tyre.

 

If it happens to me again I think it will be a fibreglass job for absolute peace of mind.

Quoting rgrigsby: 

I changed from MSM to REIS 4 years ago because MSM required a tracker on any car valued £40k+ but now REIS, CC and others all seem to insist on a tracker if the car is £40k+. I didn't try all insurers because I eventually thought it was a reassuring security feature.

Quoting sjmmarsh: 

 

Steve, I had the same reservations but there is now a tracker that is powered by it's own battery, specifically for classic cars and motorbikes (and se7ens). The battery lasts for up to 5 years. CC list "Tracker" in the Partner section of their website, this is what I had fitted here

Stu

 

I tried quite a few and they all required a tracker to be fitted as it seems to now be an insurer (as opposed to broker) standard. There is a place to fit it but for obvious reasons I will not divulge the location on this list. TBH given the attachment we have to our cars I think it is a worthwhile 'extra', I think it is £250 for installation of cheapest version including 1 yrs subscription. IMHO go for it

 

Edited by - Blue7 on 7 Aug 2012 21:38:45

I agree with Croc about the 5 speed box being better for long hauls but I wouldn't ever be without the exhilaration of 3rd in the 6 speed box, which is where the warp power starts, drop into 3rd at 50-60 mph and the animal just sings as it overtakes at warp factor 7 😬

 

When it comes to resale values, I think most people interested in a CSR will probably expect a 6 speed box and LSD.

 

I have LSD and lowered floors and one part of my spec I would definitely recommend are the GT leather seats, which are like leather tillets, they are expensive but offer a better more reclined driving position and better lumbar support. I could drive forever in those seats, the standard leather seats used to give me a sore backside after a few hundred miles.

 

I also went for Spa side mirrors attached to the windscreen rather than the standard mirrors attached to the sidescreens that vibrate so much, rear vision is awful. It means that the sidescreens do not open fully and only open as far as the mirrors but I have got used to it now.

 

This is my second CSR, both cycle wings came off the first one after about 9k miles and I have just lost the nearside one on this car after only just over 1k miles. If I ever bought another one I would get CC to re-route the side indicator cables to the outside of the stay and have the wings bolted on straight through the stay.

 

The self cancelling element of the indicators failed on both cars after a few weeks, a small white plastic dowel acts as the spur to self cancel and somehow it falls out of it's retaining sleeve so if your self cancelling fails look out for the small white dowel on the floor

 

I think you will have your work cut out for you driving in rush hour traffic, the CSR does not like slow moving traffic, it is an open road animal and just wants to be unleashed all the time 😬 Enjoy, you have chosen a great car.

 

 

My mistake Mike ... it is Chris that does the aero macho' stuff 😳

 

Enjoy your 650 mile run it looks like you may get some decent weather for it. I thought about tagging along but getting too old for doing the wild thing, I'll be content newsing with all the other old bearded farts at Glamis 😬 We did the Ullapool / Dornoch run on Diamond Jubilee day in scorching weather, it was the penultimate run in my old CSR. Remeber to fill up at Ullapool because there is b*gger all else for many miles north or west after that.

 

 

Hi Mike

 

I wondered if the post was from you but then thought it must be someone else because I thought you went aero with helmet? Must be all this dire weather that has forced you to seek the protection of windscreen and sidescreens 😬

 

I don't understand why you have an inch gap, my doors pull in flush using just the armrest popper. I recall when I collected the previous CSR that Nick Potter said I wouldn't need to use the straps just the armrest poppers.

 

The new CSR is great but haven't had much chance to get out in it due to waging war on the garden. My wife complains that I never let her drive it so for her forthcoming birthday I have booked her a day out in one of Boyd's 7's (Open Road Hire) but I won't be her pax, I will take the CSR and we will go for a run somewhere in hopefully sunny weather.

 

I hope to get down to Strathmore Vintage Rally at Glamis Castle on Saturday or more probably Sunday, then the following Sunday the CLAN charity run to Lecht and back to Treetops Hotel with all the Porkers, Astons, Ferraris, Lambos but in particular an MP4-12c that I MUST at least have a seat in 😬 😬 I think it would be my dream car if only it didn't have a roof

Quoting Mike Eamer: 

 

Hi Mike

 

I never have to use the straps, the armrest fastener closes my door flush? In any case there are some pics of my fastener here

 

If you need better images pm me with your email address or if you need to see the actual fitting there are plenty of guys around Aberdeen including myself, in fact there is a meeting planned later this month, take a look at Events at Jock7s here

Quoting Paul Seymour: 

Nice one Paul, they both came off 😳 nearside replaced by yours truly and offside secured "temporarily" by a cable tie but CC have obviously discarded both and replaced with CF versions and looks quite good.

She was mine, great car 🥰

 

here

I fitted an additional power socket to my CSR similarly to power a sat. nav. My choice of location was next to the heater control, there is a spare spade connection on the ignition barrel that is handily isolated when the ignition is turned off. I earthed it to the heater air intake assembly attached to the bulkhead.

Quoting Luegonigel: 

 

Hi Nigel

 

I was thinking about your problem after our chat last night and from what you say the clue seems to be that it only occurs when all components are at running temperature and suggests to me that some component is overheating for whatever reason. Also all other gears can be easily selected hot or cold and it only happens in reverse, which I think has no synchromesh. I would have thought that if it was a linkage adjustment problem you would have difficulty engaging 1st gear also ... if not all forward gears? On that basis, if I had a similar problem I would try the simple solutions first:

 

1. It may be that gearbox oil level is too low or needs to be changed so I would drain the gearbox oil and refill to the correct level with replacement oil.

 

2. If I am correct in my assumption that reverse gear has no synchromesh, then when the engine is hot and you are shifting from a forward gear to reverse, try doing so by double de-clutching i.e. depress the clutch pedal, move from forward gear into neutral, release the clutch pedal then depress clutch pedal again and select reverse.

 

If this didn't work then I would book the car back into Dreadnought Garage, who replaced your clutch just last year. The problem should not have recurred in just 2000 miles so let them sort it out. It is a bit of a hassle but they are a good crew with excellent facilities and the expertise to find and rectify the problem quickly.

 

In my younger days I would have dropped the gearbox and replaced clutch, pressure plate and release bearing (again) because one or more of the components may be faulty and it would have been the quickest and cheapest solution (hopefully). Hardest part was lining up the clutch & pressure plate for the 1st motion shaft ... usually using a suitable carved old broom handle

 

One further consideration is that your 7 is envious of Lee's Toniq Fireblade and now secretly craves the freedom and liberation from a reverse gear 😬 😬

 

Hope you get good weather on Sunday ... I think the forecast is 7" snow down there ... but you can't "back out" now

 

Good luck

Blue

 

Edited by - Blue7 on 18 Apr 2012 09:52:53

Quoting HCH: 

 

Welcome to BC Boyd, I hope you get yer comfy seats 😬

Has anyone tried these CC rear light clusters with the clear lens and using the CC led bulbs?

 

here

 

They look better than the standard lights but I wonder if they are as bright when used with the led bulbs? I was also considering clear lens on the front indicator to replace the standard orange lens and using an orange led bulb.

 

Any thoughts / experience, most appreciated.

Quoting pebblebuoys: 

 

If you don't carry a spare wheel, which would allow you to use the standard CC bracket, there is another CC bracket here

 

It's upside down in the pic so you will have to turn your monitor or stand on your head to view

 

 

 

Edited by - Blue7 on 30 Nov 2011 20:31:13

Kevin

 

The CC post regarding CSR oil levels is here