OldAndrewE

All the split rims I have had used nyloc nuts without problems.  

Graham, there is no transverse tube behind the seats of a short cockpit, live axle S3.  The rear bulkhead is single skin (continuation of the floor).  I will dig out some photos of mine taken during strip down before sending to Arch

2 hours ago, BenF said:

The longer the spring (all else being equal), the lower the spring rate. 

Slightly misleading statement there.  What governs the spring rate (assuming wire diameter and diameter of coil remains the same) is the number of coils.  So if you lengthen the spring by adding coils then yes, the rate will be lower but if it is lengthened by spacing out the same number of coils then the rate remains the same.

41 minutes ago, Skipper555 said:

Also would it cope with the coolant temps OK too?

I would think temperatures would be OK considering what temp wheels and tyres can get up to on a track.  

And as a backup leave the cap on the valve, that should stop any leaks

10 minutes ago, MarkD said:

Wow you forget how small they were.

And the saloons are even smaller.

19 hours ago, OldAndrewE said:

What type/size are the SUs?

For anyone interested, from the photo Steve sent me they are HS2 SUs

I think all 1275GT engines are pre A+. 

Laser 1793

For steering arm joints one of these works just as well and is easier to use in the space

What type/size are the SUs?

Dudley, if Ian does not want them I will take them.

OK, thanks Jonathan

JK has now uploaded quite a few documents (thanks JK) and they are easily found if you look as they are posted.  They appear to be located in Home/downloads/... as the attached screenshot.  However if you go to the Home tag there is no Downloads sub-menu so that makes the documents impossible  to find in the future (or am I being dim!)

Gunson Eezibleed does work but can be messy.

Like Jonathan I would be interested in the speed bleeders and also a vacuum bleeder that is attached to the bleed nipple.

On an initial fill I would see if you can get gravity to do some of the work, fill the reservoir and open the bleed nipples to see if fluid flows by gravity. The other important thing is not to be too enthusiastic and pump so much fluid that the reservoir empties and draws more air

Perhaps prime the 'hardboard' with external grade PVA, that should seal the surface and allow the double sided to stick

I would think the sender needs to be matched with the gauge.  That ebay one may well be but how would you know

I think the one in the ebay photo is 7T

Not familiar with this version of a 7 but a couple of observations.  The gearbox hard up against the chassis will not be good for noise/vibration. Also that g/box mounting plate would appear to have slotted holes so good practice will be to have washers under the nuts and they appear to be missing

The obvious answer is that the weld needs to be ground away to allow fitment which will of course damage the coating. You can also probably grind away a bit of the engine mount to minimise the amount of weld needing removing.

27 minutes ago, PlastererPete said:

Is this ok or should I find shallower nuts? 

Or get some longer studs

38 minutes ago, PlastererPete said:

Ok so next question (sorry 😬). Are those bolts, UNC, UNF, BSW, BSF? 

You are very unlikely to come across BSW or BSF on a Caterham. 

You shouldn't have any issues with the steering lock (as long as you unlock it ☺️).

Found this image online so it looks as if the answer to your question is it goes to the rear of the box

Yes

Top lid gasket: 2000E Bullet gearbox (burtonpower.com)

On 11/03/2024 at 16:49, Englishmaninwales said:

Good condition, free to a good home, collection only or could possibly meet by arrangement. Edit: located in NE Wales
 

Unfortunately for you this thread is going the same way as when I tried to give one away on here - just talk about the good old days! I ended up turning the board into a work table and scrapping the frame

4 minutes ago, Jonathan Kay said:

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