OldAndrewE

I assume you are talking about a Caterham supplied X Flow (how are they modified?) .  All the oil comes out of mine which is a front/large pan with a horizontal plate baffle.

What are you trying to do with the vertical link?  Are you not undoing the wheel bearing and pulling the hub off the stub axle?

The only thing I would add is that sometimes, once the head is drilled off you can come up against the remains of the steel "nail" and this can cause the drill to wander.  You do not want to enlarge the hole in the chassis so stop drilling and use a suitably sized parallel punch to (lightly) tap the remains in to the tube 

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/et101-8-piece-short-drivepin-punch-set/

Noted Stu, thanks

Thanks

Looking for some advice from those that have done this.  When separating the scuttle from the vertical panel and using rivnuts do you use neoprene strip between the scuttle and the chassis top tube?  Originally mine was sealed with silicone (in 1985)

May be possible Ian but they are more accessible on a mini.  On the Seven they are behind the dash and facing up at 45 degrees.  On a mini I just replaced them with socket headed screws and plan to do the same with the Seven

Thinking further about this although it is technically possible it will be quite a task.  Probably involves removing the scuttle to allow the lock shear bolts to be removed (I drilled them and used screw extractors) and also to drill out the rivets that hold the tube to the chassis rail.

I have just had a look at mine (an '85 S3 that is fully dismantled for restoration) The hole in the tube is not at the 9 o'clock position, more like 7:30, i.e. at 45 degrees down from the horizontal.  There is also a boss on the lock housing that fits exactly in the hole. As suggested Arch may be willing to make you the RH version.  The lock should be reusable on the other side.

The tube is upside down in this photo

From my old Spax dampers

Spring seat to spring seat

Front fully extended 227mm, closed to bump rubbers 171mm

Rear fully extended 357mm, closed to bump rubbers 236mm

Centre to centre bolt holes front 317mm extended, 261mm closed

Centre of bolt to end of rod rear 492mm extended, 371mm closed

Sean, I have got the original Caterham supplied dampers (Spax I think) tucked away for reference.  I will dig them out and take the measurements for you.  I will measure spring seat to spring seat open and closed and also centre to centre of the bolt holes open and closed for the front. What measurement do you want for the back (centre bolt hole to ???)

Andrew, PM sent

Elie, that would be easy if it wasn't for the fact that the car is spread out all over the place.  The newly re-skinned chassis is at the painters at the moment and the rest is in bits being sorted.  I am trying to source the new bits I need in the meantime

Yes the car is 1985 but it was built from one of Caterham's "modular kits" available at the time.  I decided to stick with the Ford English axle.  It is a Q reg.

Ian,

It is an Escort Mk1 English axle as modified by Caterham.  This was the standard setup before they moved to Ital axle and Escort Sport box.  I have a prop but it looks decidedly home made (I want to replace it) and I would like to know if it is completely correct.  There is a part no. in the Tony Weale book (02/506297) but no further detail.

Car is completely in bits at the moment so photos not possible

Regards

Andrew

Does anybody know the correct length (centre to centre of the UJs) for the propshaft on a standard cockpit, escort rear axle and 2821E (2000E) gearbox on a Xflow - 1980s vintage

Any info appreciated

Andrew

Thanks Roger,  when the car is back together I will do that

Seen about 17:10 this afternoon, presumably just going home.  I was too far away to see any further detail

If I have an electric pump with a stated pressure (on a closed outlet) of 4.26 +/- 0.4 psi feeding twin 40 Dellortos on a XFlow will that be OK or do I need to fit a regulator to reduce it?

Ref #7 I used to have to take a works car in to Kwikfit for tyres and while there I often saw people coming in to collect cars after an MOT.  I do not recall ever seeing one pass and the fails were usually for trivial items.  Not saying this was deliberate policy but it did seem unusual.  I would never take a car for MOT to any "national chain" company. 

I used to take my Mini to a local independent garage for its MOT (until it became exempt) and although is cost full fee there were never any issues. I will be taking the 7 there when the restoration is complete

Anyone got a decent under-dash handbrake lever they are willing to part with?  I am restoring my 1985 S3 and the lever was very second hand when it was built and it has not improved with age!

Thanks, it has given us (I built it with my nephew) lots of fun.  Regarding new shells it was a much easier decision when we started - a shell complete with doors, boot and bonnet was £1,800.  They start at just under £9k now. 

We also have a Clubman Estate on the go and there was no option but to get the welder out for that (got someone else to do it though)

Mine is a 1976 850 saloon rebuilt with a new Heritage shell (started 2000, on road 2006) and now fitted with a 1300GT engine.  It also has a SW5 cam and is bored +.040.  The rockers are roller but only 1.3 ratio - the SW5 works well with them.  It has a Calver Special Tuning head and twin HS2 carbs.  95 bhp (at flywheel) on rolling road.  I also run 10" wheels and I can recommend Yokohama A032s.  With the right wheels you can get 7.9" brakes and 4-pot alloy calipers under them.  Article in Summer 2012 Mini Magazine if anyone wants further info

I presume you are talking about the plate behind the timing gears.  The usual thing would be to use the proper gasket with a bit of Hylomar or similar.  No idea why Sikaflex would be used.  With all the timing gear and fixing screws removed (including the two countersunk ones below the crank I would use as much force/leverage as needed to remove the plate.  If it get damaged a new one is less than £30.  Try not to damage the block though - they are a bit more expensive!

https://www.minispares.com/search/classic/12g2626.aspx

Agree with all the other comments.  The best bet will be a hole of some sort on the sump unless there is far too much oil in the engine.

I don't know if the 1992 chassis is different but mine is a 1985 with a crossflow and you cannot split the engine from the bellhousing without removing the whole unit from the car.

Thanks both,  I have already tried Burton without success.  I will give Brakeparts a try