AMBO

Ok, thanks Graham!

Thanks to Graham for the email today with details for us newbies! Our car has a FIA cut off fitted to the right side within the triangle of the screen support, which I've marked with an off direction sticker. Do I still need a sticker on the dash indicating ignition off, or is the big red key sufficient? Thanks! I though I'd put the question here, in case others are thinking the same.

UroGlas Ltd in Bromsgrove, Worcestershire have just sold me a heated screen for £225. They'll deliver for £65 plus VAT. I collected last week, good bunch there and would recommend them!

SOLD. I bought this with another part, but it doesn't fit my FIA rollbar! For sale then on ebay, item number 184651661034 Thanks Nick https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184651661034

Thank you again Richard! Car is 2001 and as far as I can see the 4 pots were fitted from the start... Interesting point about the difference between speed and trackday events. I wouldn't have thought of that, at least not yet! I've always tended not to think too much about the back brakes, as long as they were in good working condition (with go faster Clio's). I'll have a look at both the suggestions for rear pads and get some ordered. Interesting and much appreciated! Hope to meet you all at Anglesey or later in the season...

Thank you for that! I will look into standard front pads and have a look at the rear calipers too. I've got good experience with DS2500's, but not on a Caterham.

Have the 4 piston upgrade calipers which I presume are the AP items, although they are branded Caterham. What pads to do people recommend for trackdays and the speed events please and is Redline the default place for them? Thank you...!

Myself and Mrs Ambo will apply for MSUK licences next week and then register for the championship, Thanks Graham!

Thanks Richard! Will await arrival of the strut and go from there and will contact Bruce at Arch As it looks like I can use the existing tyres and roll bar, I won't be too disappointed if the strut turns out to be wrong and I have to sell it on and buy another! Your help is appreciated!

Thank you gents for the replies! Currently it's fitted with CR500's, 175/55R13 and 205/55R13's. I will check and see if they are E marked and if so, my understanding is that they will be ok. If not ZZR or ZZS in 185/55 and 215/55 seem popular, or any other road legal E marked or 1A or 1B tyre... The petty strut is a used item which hasn't landed here yet! It's allegedly a Caterham part, but I don't remember seeing any stickers on it, in the photos... Does the roll bar look like an FIA item? Not convinced myself, but would like a definitive answer! Doesn't have any stickers therefore do I need to add...https://caterhamparts.co.uk/track-day-bars/2728-roll-over-bar-fia-s3-l-a-rhd.html Thanks Nick

Greetings all! Am looking at joining in for 2021! Road legal 2001 car with 225bhp, so assume class 4. It has the roll bar with one diagonal brace which I understand is ok for club trackdays, but advice on whether it's ok for this please? Have got a petty strut to fit... 1B tyres.... although having looked at the regs I'm a bit confused as somewhere it implies that and 1A, 1B or any road legal tyres? Need suitable helmet, suit and gloves as minimum. Have got a timing strut. Pay the £30 registration fee and acquire a MSUK RS Interclub licence. Have just got a trailer and will sort a tow vehicle... Anything else please? Thank you, Nick

Is this still for sale?

Tried a sense wire from the S or D connection to the battery +ve, but it didn't make any difference... Engine running but no electrical load gives 14.3 V at the battery whilst idling. Add mainbeam, hazards and heated screen etc and battery V dropped to 13.3 to 13.6 V, again at idle. With revs up to about 2000, the battery shows 14.4V, with or without the sense wire connected... I'm a happy boy now! Cheers Nick

14.3 volts was measured at the battery. I will try what you've suggested... Really appreciate your help and explanation! Best Wishes, Nick

As it seemed to be working ok, I wasn't feeling brave enough! If designed as suggested, presumably the alternator will charge as required depending on battery voltage, if I connect S to +ve?

At 15-1700 revs it was 14.3 Volts...

Good comments! Hope to meet Luke sometime at Anglesey where I often am on duty and good to hear that all the race teams are willing to help! Cheers Nick

The conclusion is that I connected the wire that originated from Brown/Yellow to the L and the White wire to the IG and we now have a working ignition light, which goes out with the engine running and the battery is charging well, but not too well! The Green/Blue I've left disconnected as before as it all works without. This leaves the S or D as per Brise diagrams not used. Thank you again for all your help chaps...and hope we all get to enjoy some summer driving, even though it looks like it could be a good few weeks away yet... Best Wishes, Nick

Right, my ECU is repaired and the car runs again, so I'll update this thread tomorrow regarding the alternator wiring...

Really pleased to say that these guys have fixed my ECU, so my Caterham lives on... Luke Stevens was recommended to me and he got Clint at BHP to repair my Alpha ECU, which I damaged by shorting the back of the isolater switch to the body...doh Clint sent it to me to try and I was delighted today, when the engine ran again Clint doesn't have a test rig for my aged Alpha ECU, so said try it and if it works, pay me, if not send it back and he'd try again! Was happy to pay him! I have no previous experience or affiliation with either company, but have found both very helpful and reasonable to deal with... Right, now back to my alternator wiring! Best Wishes to all, Nick

Not yet Jonathan! Will update as soon as possible...

No, totally seperate issue!

As promised, an update... I've moved the Brown/Yellow from S or D (depending on which of the Brise diagrams we go from) to L and the red (LED) ignition light comes on...fantastic chaps I can't unfortunately go any further yet, because my ECU maybe faulty...the engine will not start! But once that is sorted I can check for volts as suggested with ignition off, on and engine running. Then I can report back and take your advice on whether to connect a wire from S/D to erm, somewhere! Regarding the 3rd Black wire that I found disconnected, but is connected to Blue/Green on the 14 pin plug....I think someone suggested that it could be to do with the water temp gauge. Gauge works, but the wire was by the 'H20' connection, so I wonder if the was originally connected to a different CTS or that when the engine was removed much more recently, someone just got confused or couldn't be bothered to work out, what you chaps have helped me work out... Thanks again chaps! Nick Oh and comments noted about use of crocodile clips!

Perhaps I'll try a wire from the big fat starter terminal as described...I've now bought some small crocodile clips to make some test leads and will report back...

Think was i was just seeking clarity that I was looking at the right connector! The grey has the 14 holes for wires and 9 on the loom side with 7 on the engine side, so now I'm confident that I was refering to the correct plug and understand the terminology...thanks you again!