C7 Owl

Sounds worth a try. I'll see if any machine polishers local and how price difference to a full refurb. If not will try wet and dry then polish, and relaquer, make a hash of it then full refurb. Thanks

Thanks. Thought probably a full refurb. Just thought I'd check if could polish it out. Oh well.

All 4 of my minilite two colour wheels have what looks like oxidisation on the chrome / silver outside rim. Black inners perfect. Is there a product or technique to remove without full refurb. Would love wheels to look undamaged when I change tyres shortly. See pics in link. https://photos.app.goo.gl/jkPYeP4EVPwhEhWU6 Thanks.

Below is a picture of the cross member at back which there are one at front, middle and back. The vertical lip photographed runs from back shown here the length of deck to front.

I am going to add Phenolic Ply centre deck to my BJ Minno trailer. I was wondering if anyone else has done this? Where did you drill though the galvanized steel deck or the cross members? The square cross members are very thick so don't look ideal. So drilling through the lip on the tyre deck and screwing into side of ply looks best to me. Should I also put a screw through the thinner cross members into the face of the bottom of the deck surface? Should I treat the surface I've drilled with anything to avoid rust where screw is securing deck? What sort of fixing would be best?

It's all fitted now and looks much improved on dash with self cancelling working well from testing. I'll give it a road test tomorrow morning. I will do a idiots guide fitting instruction for those like me. The ones that came with it assume your not daft. In PGM defence they were very responsive via email. Very happy with it. There were a couple of issues, before fitting I realised existing indicator hole in dash bigger than new indicator fixing rings. Used washers (PGMs idea) that I drilled / filed inner hole to size the indicator switch would just go through to have minimum extra metal on dash. After fitting switch and module it did not work, checked everything simple then did extra hard squeeze with pliers on the piggy back splice connector for 12v live and ground. Must have been cautious in first place as then worked a charm and now operates as advertised.

Iv tried to use a screwdriver to turn the bezel by pushing counter clockwise on that nook shown in picture. It seems solid and not going anywhere. Do I need to lubricate / secure rear then turn? Is there a better tool to use?

Can anyone give me tips on removing the old indicator switch? For a 2000 kseries car. Other switches it's normally a nut at back. This does not appear to have one. See pictures. The assembly guide does not seem to give guidance on this part of car. Not really keen on pulling off and hoping. What is fastener type used, how can I remove it and be able to reuse? See links to pictures. https://photos.app.goo.gl/YCwyes2rMEaPZNCV6 https://photos.app.goo.gl/B511Tisb8CDrcVnf8 Thanks

Here are the pictures of the unit. I think I have concept of wiring just trying to work out whether to use a piggyback onto 12v power and earth cables or just find a place elsewhere it's easy to wire into. https://photos.app.goo.gl/yjNXCYPx297n9dSD9 Once iv done it I'll post pictures of each stage and how I chose to wire it up.

Yes this is same person. Thanks for your reply, I think I've got my head around wiring now. Although I haven't quite worked out which guage or exactly how I tap into 12v power. Ive done a bit of playing about with 12v so should be able to work out. Before I get to that, I'm having a slight issue removing the old indicator. I'll probably take pictures and do a step by step for the whole process on here once I've done it. Unless I decide better to pop down and ask you guys fit it. For now I'm gonna crack on.

I think I'm never gonna program my thick skull to consistently turn off indicators after use. So have purchased the handy looking PGM module that self cancels the indicators and has a snazzy metal indicator switch to improve dash. Install instructions a little sparse but can follow up to the final instruction no 6 on PGMs sheet. That advised to remove the connector to the closest guage and connect the power and earth as follows. Vehicle loom green to pin 1 Red then vehicle loom black to Pin 7 black. Could anyone whose installed this translate for me which guage, closest to what, should the guage I disconnected be left unpowered? Iv emailed PGM but thought I'd see if anyone on here could help as theyv not responded yet. If I hear back from PGM I'll put answer up.

Hi Alan Thanks that was what I was hoping to hear. I mainly drive on the road on twisty stuff when poss and currently its really nice for that no need for extra grunt. So no desire to spend on engine mods unless i really enjoyed sprinting and was nowhere near the pace. So thats reassuring. Nearer the time and before I buy some new tyres I will check with organiser how many in class 2 or 3. Ive got two sets of wheels so might get a road set that has the Yoko and another with trackday tyres and can decide nearer the time. I was weighing up what to replace my nankang with and was either Toyo R888r or Avon ZZS for sprinting are they similar or are the Avons massively preferred? Is it possible to enter 2 classes and have twice as many runs?

I fancy having a run on some hill climbs and sprints this year. So I have started prepping the car and getting the safety equipment. I have a 2000 superlight 1.6 K series. So have been looking at the class my car will qualify in. The superlight special edition had the caterham 6 speed gear box so it looks like it needs to be in class 2. The power limit in that class is 155bhp. The power stated in launch material and the performance car magazine review is 138bhp. So Im wondering with the aeroscreen Im just installing and trying to get some kilos off the lump of a driver down to about 85kg. Will most other people have maxed the power to 155bhp or there abouts and it will be difficult to match times? Or will driver technique and tyres etc play more of a role. For the first sprint im sure I wont mind but want to plan expenses if I enjoy it etc, should I plan to breath on the engine to be on about par with those at the top of class 2? I know if im competing I would not be happy to not be in the mix due to machinery limits. Are there more important mods I should be considering to get the car competing with those in that class ie flat flooring being other thing I can think of. I dont really want to mess with the suspension other than fine tuning as really like how it drives on the road.

Just measured it and looks like it fits, so ive put an offer in. So from conversation above if the sticker is on the Petty strut it looks like I should be ok?

Thanks if I get it, I will. No harm having more stickers if they will issue them.

That sounds promising then that is should be a match. Thanks for quick responses. The sticker is on the strut from the sellers pictures. The seller has said his was 988mm between the fixing points. Im going to give a quick measure tomorrow.

Im prepping car to go to join the club sprint and hill climb championship. My year 2000 superlight has an FIA roll bar but did not come with a petty strut which I need to pass meet regs and scrutineering. There is one on ebay for an S3 FIA single diagonal from 1992. Im pretty sure it should fit mine which also has the single diagonal and is from 8 years later. Does anyone know the measurements of the petty strut for my car? Or is there a measurement I could take from my car that I could ask the seller to confirm so I know that it will fit.

Id like a set. I have a 2000 S3 Kseries 1.6. Is there anything i need to check that it will fit. Standard original lights. Is it still £45 inc postage? Is there a thread with fitting instructions? Thanks

Took it to Morleys Auto Services in Redhill who did the 2nd test that failed. This was the free retest. They are who I took it to for the previous 2 years.

Thanks for all input on this. Really appreciated. So had another crack at finding an exhaust leak over the weekend. After fair bit of searching decided not leaking in the exhaust system. So I replaced the lambda sensor. Took a fair bit wd40 and running the car to get it hot. But got it off. Was a bit disconcerting after refitted the new bosch part that when the engine was running there was some fumes emanating from near the sensor . Didnt have MOT so couldnt take it for a run. So I crossed my fingers that it was the preapplied grease and some residual WD40 burning off. Took it for a decent run this afternoon on way to test centre. After the run there were no fumes coming out so decided I had tightened sufficiently and was not exhaust gasses. Passed the retest with Lambda of 1.030 so well below the max 1.090. Very relieved because it didn't sound like many more things to try other than getting more experienced mechanic to find an exhaust leak.

I have not driven it much this year due to time it took me to replace binding rear calipers, but noticed on the way to the MOT test centre that their was hesitation at low revs and felt a bit lumpy. No misfire though from what I could tell. Im going to have another go later in the week and use soapy water on the joints hopefully will bubble up if there is a leak. Will also listen more carefully had mainly been looking for smoke forcing its way out.

Opie oils sounds like a good shout. Thanks for confirming that MHK10006 it looked like it but nice to be sure before ordering.

Didnts manage to find the leak. Gonna give it another shot tomorrow, was a bit windy so made it a little tricky. Will the fumes be quite obvious if exhaust is blocked up? I'd blocked it but a bit was still coming out through the rag. Could not see anything escaping from any of the joints.

Yes saw the Rimmer Bros one too. The posts on this site keep referring to the 1.8 K series but I reckon will be same part for 1.6. I'll drop Rimmer Bros an email to see if they know.

If I dont find a leak. I have had a quote from redline for the lambda sensor. It seems a bit high though at just under £200 inc vat. I have found this Lambda Sensor. I can see that EU2 1.8 k series definitely work with this. But it seems that any pre 2000 k series should also. I have found even cheaper ones on ebay but not sure they are genuine bosch parts so will stick with the OEM equivalent ones. Does anyone know if MHK10006 is the right part number for the EU2 1.6 K series?