Richard_420R

Yes I assumed so but didn't know if it was okay to have a small gap. Need to get some smaller hands so I can get into the cramped spaces to adjust! So fiddly. thanks, R.

Hi all, I managed to snap my throttle cable at Blyton today. Trackside repair is working with full travel but there is now a 1cm gap behind pedal to the metal stop plate. Are you supposed to set it up so that the metal stop arrives exactly at WOT or is it normal to have a gap and rely on the throttle and wire tension to stop the pedal without it snapping again? I think I need a new cable but in the meantime not too sure how careful I need to be about avoiding WOT. thanks for any help! Richard.

Pump is pumping as washer fluid ends up on floor when pump is engaged. Looks like blockage at nozzle end ... will have to see how accessible it is - do you need to get into scuttle to access?

I have one but it's on windscreen for winter

Pump runs, but fluid comes out underneath car and not through nozzles. Have tried the old 'pin in the nozzles' technique but no good. Feels like fluid is getting pumped out of the reservoir so a blockage somewhere else - I hardly use it so might just wait for the next MOT ... unless there is an easy fix someone can suggest? Cheers! Rich.

checked again - was looking at buses or goods vehicles or something. This is what the gov.uk site says ...copy-pasted: Mirror requirements for cars and dual purpose vehicles Cars and dual purpose vehicles - after 26 January 2010 - external (offside) - yes - external (nearside) - yes - internal - yes (unless the internal mirror cannot provide an adequate view to the rear) from https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/mirrors-on-motor-vehicles/summary-of-requirements-for-mirrors-on-motor-vehicles Seems clear to me - but happy to be corrected if I'm looking at the wrong thing again. The text for pre-2010 first use for offside/internal says what you said - one or the other: "One external (ns) or one internal (at least one mirror fitted externally on the nearside unless a mirror which gives the driver an adequate view to the rear is fitted internally)"

Although I've just read the Gov site again and looks like cars after 78 need no internal mirror as you say ... I seem to read something different each time I go there. Getting old and stoopid :)

Re legality, I've read the rules a few times and I'd say it is in the grey myself - the regs talk about the need for an interior (is it inside?) mirror so long as it provides an adequate view of rear - which could be considered either way. My view is Mr Plod will have his own ideas and, rightly or wrongly, I feel like enough of a plonker in a helmet and aeroscreen on the motorway that I don't want to give him or her any more excuses to have a nose. I actually think the rear view is pretty good from it and mine is a little higher than I'd like aesthetically but means it doesn't really obscure the wheel view. I agree you don't need one though for visibility so long as you adjust your mirrors to give a good view directly behind you.

I have one and as others have said, the visibility is great and works very nicely on track. Few points: 1. I used a thicker rubber strip to help the fit - couldn't get the gap to scuttle small enough otherwise 2. I found it a bit tricky to get a good fit - with some bending and fiddling to install. 3. Centre mirror - I have one and have it bolted but it's hard to avoid contact on the scuttle and hence a glue/tape option might be better. I guess it would fine without but for driving to/from track I didn't want to take the risk of being stopped. 4. I have the captive bolts and switching back and forth to full windscreen is about 15-20 mins including the inevitable mirror readjust. I cut the heated screen wires and fitted plugs with crimper - works well. I find the fiddliest bit of the process getting the wipers off - I use a pry tool but I generally spend 5-10 mins on that step alone. Overall I love it and wouldn't want to lose the extra visibility vs a solid/carbon one but at the end of the day it is just a wambly bit of plastic so fit isn't perfect - not that it affects use at all. Richard.

I ended up getting a new wheel set with some part worn ZZS tyres and put on ZZRs to replace my worn ZZSs. Having just completed the first track day with the ZZRs, I've come away impressed how close the ZZS is to the R - grip levels are very close - the R doesn't go off as quickly when hot but it shows that the ZZS is a excellent all round tyre. I must admit I was expecting a bigger delta given the nearly slick tread on the R but I guess the ZZS has a pretty aggressive tread pattern itself. Edit: not sure if it was me but the R also feels a little more compliant on the road and softer on turn-in than the S. Not sure if it is a softer compound or not but it feels quite forgiving and the tyre wall feels softer to me,

FYI I spoke to Avon and they said they have no ZZS tyres and it will be early September before they have stock again as production was shut down for two weeks over summer.

Super useful thanks. However I have the 8" rear wheels and currently I can find any R888R or AR1 tyres in a sensible width and profile for the rear for the 8" Apollo. The only like-for-like 215-55-R13 for the rear seem to be ZZRs. Maybe I'm going to have to try those and get another set of ZZS when they become available again ... hmmm.

Thanks I'll try the suggestions. Any views about key differences if I tried the R888R or the Nankang AR1 instead??

Hi All - my ZZS set is nearing its end and it seems like they aren't available currently - can't see anyone with stock in the next month or so... it seems like the only (good) options around are ZZRs or Toyo R888R for my 6"/8" 13" rim config on the 420R. The Toyo seems appealing as sentiment appears to say more track focused than ZZS but not as sketchy on the highway as the ZZR. But sizes are a bit off - can someone confirm that the 185/205-60-R13 would fit the Apollo 6"/8" x 13" rims? Also diameter will be a bit off so might cause some gearing issues?? Follow-up question - what else should I consider? The Yoko A052 seem to be available in 14"+ only. Also is there any love for the ZZR on a car that will be 60:40 road:track? I'm sure I'd love it at Cadwell where my ZZS just gets too hot - but sounds like heat-up on road means they'll be lairy even in the dry. Cheers, Rich.

Thanks Andy. Turn7 have had a good look at it and looks like exactly the same issue - although they think extending the drop link will allow running in softer setting whilst maintaining enough clearance. Changing CV boot and extending drop-link is the plan. Richard.

Hi AG2728, this looks like what has happened to me. I've just softened the ARB to the last hole and this is the first trackday following that change. Seems a bit rubbish that we can't use that setting but I suspec I will reset to the previous setting as a precaution given there is no other reason I can think of why this has happened. Richard.

I did a quick check of the rear left and there is a lot of grease/oil on the inside of the wheel rim and on the ARB and lower suspension parts. Can't see an obvious source and will get a better look with the wheel off later on but any tips on where to look to diagnose? R.

Thanks - will try and take a look this weekend.

Thanks all - much appreciated - will investigate some more!!

Hi all, During track day at Blyton yesterday, I was getting some grauncy noises under hard left cornering - I didn't get it unless flat out in the dry as seems only to happen at grip limit. No such noise when turning right. Ideas and should I be worried about it? Not super loud but it is audible on my gopro vid I did when I'm not on the throttle. Car is 2.5yr old on 4k miles with LSD ... is this a sign the diff needs servicing soon? Richard.

... and a bent tube is a possibility as I manhandled the blades in a forlorn attempt to get them going when stuck in rain on a motorway. This was on the trip that got the motor replaced but maybe there was damage to the mechanism that they didn't spot. Eyeballing it would be handy but can't see an easy way to do that and my googling so far hasn't unturned an easy video/how-to guide. Any pointers would be gratefully received - including a "don't try this at home if you're not very good at it" advice and I can find someone to take a look for me :)

Thanks. Is there a noddy guide somewhere to get into the scuttle to access and take a look? My maintenance abilities are pretty weak - changing brake pads is about all I'm doing for the moment. Oakmere is too long a drive for me aside from my annual service - and for some reason I didn't ask them to look at this issue when I took it recently - must have been working fine for a bit! Rich.

Hi Jonathan, it was done by Oakmere as I had it done under warranty. How smooth should the mechanism sound? On mine it sound a bit 'grindy' - once it's running to and fro it goes quite smoothly and it's normally on first/cold operation where it can move about 1cm and then stop - if I give it a bit of a push it will run okay but that's not really an option when on the move. I wonder if the mechanism wasn't correctly lubricated during factory build or something - suspect first motor was burnt out due to inability to move the mechanism. For once this doesn't quite seem like a "they all do that sir" which was what I was expecting ;) Rich.

Hi all - hope everyone had/is having a good festive season! I had my wiper motor replaced under warranty but it's always (and still is) a right pain. It just sticks and needs a firm prod to get it moving again. This is hard when strapped in and on a motorway etc. I've just had a fiddle and looks like the posts are grinding a bit so just popped in some wd40 and ran them for a bit. They seem a lot better now but am wondering if there is a standard maintenance procedure for this. Ie a particular type of grease or a way of cleaning/oiling to ensure this doesn't happen. Any ideas or suggestions? Am thinking the wd40 might be too thin etc and it needs something different. Rich.

Thanks for the tip AG2728 - looks like a bit of risk running at the 4th, softest setting then. When people suggest disconnecting, are they removing the arb part or just disconnecting and leaving it in place? Does it not rattle or cause any issues in situ?