Saltyhair81

Thanks for all the replies, I'll have another look later. It seems much better since adding oil to all the moving parts. Prior to me purchasing my car, for the last quite a few years she had done 50 miles a year, each year (mot station and back) so hoping it's just teething probs from lack or use and sitting there. I'll have a test run later so fingers crossed

I've lubricated everything just now, all wires and pivot points. If anyone has any other ideas before I test run the car tomorrow, let me know and I will do those now. I thought it would be pretty straight forward but you never know if there are hidden problems!

I thought I would ask here before my investigations. For a while, I thought I have been imagining taking my foot slightly off the throttle and the revs not decreasing. Today, my suspicions have been confirmed. I got the car to 3k and dipped the clutch. The revs stayed at the same RPM before I blipped the throttle and the idle then went down. Any ideas before I start looking? Cars a 2006 Sigma 150 Superlight. It's also still under CC warranty so if it's not a simple fix, I'll be adding it to the list with the service. Joe

No seats stayed in so that's where the extra time went, plus there was two of us. Also, I knew what drill bit size to use and looked at your pictures for reference so that sped the process up somewhat. Thanks for the guide and picture on Instagram, it made it a much easier process! For anyone else fitting the popper in the carbon, when drilling we put masking tape below the hole in the body. We marked on this the location vertically of the hole and then pushed the bow protector over the tape tight. We drew a line round the outline of the protector on the tape. We added tape to the bow protector and marked a line that linked up with the line already on the tape showing position. Remove the bow protector and then measure the outline on the masking tape to the hole. It should be around 7.5mm to 8mm. That's your hole, 4mm if using a rivet or 3mm if it's a self tap screw. Hope this tip is useful for anyone else.

Firstly, thanks to Alan for his help and Garage. Was a pretty straight forward procedure, no issues. Massively improved the visual appearance without doors, I would recommend the product. Took us about an hour and a half for both sides taking things nice and gently.

Second Guys post, that was the same mistake I made when I purchased my car.

I'll have a proper look on Saturday but doesn't sound like I have much hope

Has anyone found a Paintless Dent Removing company that will work on their 7? I know it's a nightmare of a job because you cant put much pressure on the Alu. On the rear of my car, where the boot is, I believe the older gentleman that used to own it must have knelt down and rested his knees on the back whilst doing the poppers up. You can see his bloody knee marks in certain light which is really upsetting me. Any advice appreciated, I have a feeling it maybe a respray job though

I've been following you on Instagram, I thought it was a weird coincidence when I asked you about the popper yesterday! I didn't think about the tillets. I have lowered floors and the leather armchairs , so I think I will be ok.

Looking at my kit that I am due to fit, doesn't look like the seats need to be touched. Fitting mine sat so will let you know!

I will be hopefully fitting mine on the 12th so will update with pictures in due course

You can never have enough carbon lm looking forward to fitting mine now, but I understand why I have only ever seen one Caterham at CC with them on!

http://caterhamparts.co.uk/protectors/7107-carbon-bow-tube-protector-kit.html?search_query=Carbon+bow+protectors&results=124

That's what I thought someone would say! Madness, £188 only to finish the product yourself!

No idea! That's why I thought I'd ask before starting. I might have a better look at it tomorrow. All those rivets

Has anyone fitted these? I have just purchased a set from Caterham. Before I start drilling the rivets out, fitting and drilling the carbon before re-riveting, it looks as though you need to notch out the carbon for the door press stud. Is this the case as that's a seriously crap design, or can anyone advise if it misses them? Thanks in advance. Joe

Mine did exactly the same and turned out to be the wheel speed sensor. Would bounce around and then completely die. Mine was done under warranty but I've been told it can be a bit of a tricky job. Hope that helps

Sold, in under 24 hours I will really miss that car

Thank you, completely forgot to link it correctly

Bit of an unusual one for here, could be useful for someone towing their Caterham to events, and has plenty of room for tyres in the load bed if that's your thing. I've treated this car as well as my Caterham and it needs nothing. It's VAT free and also is classed as commercial meaning commercial vehicle tax which is a blessing. Plenty of torque with those twin turbos. Full details on the eBay ad below https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203043128263 PM me on here if interested

Sent you a PM a while back, waiting a reply!

https://dragymotorsports.co.uk/ It's a GPS box that registers your 0-60, 1/8th mile, 1/4 mile etc. The box sits in your car and the app registers times on your phone and is meant to be accurate within 1/100th of a second. It's interesting for feedback and you can take the box with you and use in any car you like. Most of the youtubers running car channels use them!

Interesting comments. I was curious if it would be quicker with my doors back on? Taking the screen off I can understand as it's like hitting a block of wood. I want to keep it as realistic with everyday driving as possible though. Having the 6 speed means you really need to be in 3rd for 60 unless you want to hit the limiter which doesn't help things with the extra gear change. I am just interested to see where Caterham got their claimed time's and what factors they take into consideration. I've had this conversation before about MPG figures too.

Has anyone used a Dragy, and if so, would be interested to see what real life times people are getting with what set up. I purchased one a few weeks back and on a SV 150 Superlight with no doors and a decat, I'm struggling to break 5.5 seconds confirmed. I know I can improve once I sort my start and gear changes. I'm very mechanically sympathetic so I don't like doing too many runs! Interested to know if any others have had any experience on the matter?

PM sent