TallTim

SOLD!

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PRG minisporter XW New in 2020 did one academy season, bought by me in 2022 and used for one CSCC season XW model apparently makes loading caged cars easier, as you can still close the lid if slightly off centre. Extras include Wheel chocks High level tyre rack Jerry can storage Winch Locking hitch This trailer is over £7.5k new with a long wait. Trailer available now. Located in Reading. £5250 Please call Tim 07789 221774 for more photos / information

I have this setup on my car... Oil in from the bottom of the tank to the angled connector and oil out to the cooler / top of tank from the straight connector at the front of the sump.

I've got a an unopened 5L bottle you can have for £10 if you're near Reading any time soon. Drop me a message.

A full set of Avon Caterham slick tyres, standard 6” and 8” sizes. Used for testing. Plenty of life left. I’m now running different tyre size on the rear so these are unlikely to get used again. Collection from reading RG4 I will wrap in pairs for postage, but you have to arrange your own courier. please pm me your number or email if you want more info or photos. £200 Thanks Tim

Now sold. Thanks

C2 Blue Single axle Brian James Trailer. 3.20 m x 1.80 m bed. Lock fitted in coupling head. New heavy duty jockey wheel. 5 years old. Located in Reading. Tows great, easy to move about. I push it around a gravel drive on my own. £1495.00 Photos here Photos Please drop me a message and I'll send you my number. Thanks Tim

Thanks Both for the advice, Went out and had a quick check around the car this morning. I have some play in the propshaft and also some in the right hand driveshaft. Made a couple of videos of the issue. I'm assuming that play in both is way too much and should be sorted (the left hand driveshaft has no play that i can feel)? https://youtu.be/KDnMIsYRTyI for the driveshaft https://youtu.be/EeFiUEG6LSw for the propshaft I have a race next weekend, so realistically only the driveshaft could be sorted before then. I need to take the diff out and change the ratio, so i'll do the prop and gearbox seal at the same time. Thanks Tim

Hello all, Found that my gearbox oil seal is leaking. Has anyone managed to replace the seal without removing engine and box? Assuming it can be done in the car, I'm also wondering if I'll have to remove the diff to extract the prop from the gearbox? it's a Sadev gearbox if that makes a difference, but I think they are the same output arrangement as a type 9. Again glad to be corrected if I have made an incorrect assumption. Any help or advice gladly accepted. Also, on a possibly related note, I am chasing down a vibration that occurs at high speed. Over about 110 there is a reasonably strong vibration through the car. I'm going to get all the wheels rebalanced! But the prop oil seal leaking makes me wonder if there is some vibration there that has caused the leak. Any thoughts? Thanks Tim

Hello all, I’m looking for a set of 6” / 8” wheels. 8 spoke or Apollo. If anyone knows of any coming up for sale, please drop me a line. Many Thanks Tim

I’ll take a set, assuming they’ll fit a 2009 SV Thanks

Hello, please can you confirm which grille it is? Or post a photo? https://caterhamparts.co.uk/nose-cones/4727-sv-nosecone-grill-2010.html https://caterhamparts.co.uk/nose-cones/791-mesh-grille-with-7-sv.html I’ll likely take it either way. Thanks Tim

Thanks JV, I’ll have a good go at cleaning up the pin before fitting the new loom. Good find on the connector, thanks. I want a few other bits so will probably go with the pre made loom this time.

https://caterhamparts.co.uk/looms/4586-sub-loom-fuel-pump-sigma-r400-c400.html Looks like the ticket... thanks for your help Jonathan

Thanks, Thats kind of what i expected it to be... but the diagrams i am looking at dont quite work out as i would expect. I think i am trying to marry up the R400 chassis loom drawing with the "main wiring harness for all standard instrumentation, Ford Sigma Variants", which is why the numbers dont quite work out (colour codes appear applicable to both). The fact that i have a car that is neither an r400 or a sigma, doesnt really help... its a bit of a hybrid that someone else has pieced together, which makes this kind of faultfinding fun. On the plus side, unplugging and replugging the fuel pump connection for the 30th time, appears to have fixed the fault and the pump now runs! I think i need a replacement small loom that goes from the clear square connector on the chassis loom to the inline black fuel pump connector

Hi jonathan, From right to left in the photo: yellow/green (with 12V on it) Green (possibly Green / black) Sender out Black (Thin gauge) Sender Ground Black (Thicker gauge) connected to ground The sender wires have 34Ohms across them I have the wiring diagram in the r400 manual, understand the colour codes, but i dont get the wire numbers next to them. Thanks

hello all, I think my fuel pump may have died. I have a Duratec 2.3 with what appears to be the standard Caterham in tank pump (part no 36T004A) i have 12v across the outer pins on the pump connector (think the inner two are the sender), but no whining pump noise and the car won’t start. The ground pin on the pump appears a little tarnished and the corresponding pin in the connector appears blackened the pump measures as 0.6ohms across its pins on the connector, meaning a 24A draw if connected but the battery voltage doesn’t dip or even flicker when the fuel pump circuit is energised. I’ve put a clamp meter on the power cable and it’s drawing no current. im thinking the connector pin is knackered and not making a circuit Any thoughts would be most welcome? hopefully this link to photos will work thanks Tim

Pm sent

Now sorted, thanks

As per title really, Perspex / carbon / grip... anything considered. I have a black screen frame (glass has a crack in the lower corner) that could do with some TLC which could be made available if someone is planning a swap. Doors with armrests also could be made available. Thanks Tim