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CtrMint

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Everything posted by CtrMint

  1. Thanks for that, That looks like what I'm trying to do. Do you have an SV or S3? Mine is an S3, and the proximity to the chassis rail seems to prevent getting the connector on straight. A few extra mill and I might be able too but not matter how I push, pull, twist I just can't get a straight fit.
  2. Yes the images are the pipes of concern, though I have managed to get them on now, i just think it is pretty poor to stress the hose in the manner required. To be honest I'm now trying the one which runs from the bottom of the engine to the bottom of the tank. That one is impossible. You simply cannot get the hose on straight to the joint at the bottom of the engine due to the engine mount. I'm seriously getting to the point of calling it a day with this whole idea. I should have stuck with messing around with JDM cars.
  3. I spun the hose around, and tried fitting on the cooler first. This has allowed me to fit without the hose collapsing, but I still had to force the hose at the tank clockwise by about 45 degrees. Not totally convinced. I've moved on and got the other cooler oil line on, but I'm now struggling with the tank to sump line.
  4. Thanks aerobod, unfortunately I seem to have a horizontal connection and vertical position hose.
  5. If you rotate at the engine, the 90 there will be out, I've tried that.
  6. Both are elbows. I've tried both orientations, there is just now way you can make it fit without forcing it.
  7. Sorry John, you'll have to forgive me but I don't follow what you are suggesting.
  8. Hi All, Me again, another build issue, have to say my patience is running thin at the moment. If you recall my woes in an earlier thread over the radiator bobbins and the R300 race style radiator/oil cooler supplied with my 420R, https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/silly-confusion-over-rad-install Well I've managed to get to fitting the oil lines and hit more issues. As far as I can tell I've been supplied oil lines which would be designed to fit a car with the separate oil cooler, where inlet faces vertically downwards. My cooler inlet face horizontally towards the engine, however the cooler lines are expecting a vertical union. As a result I have force the line through 90 degrees which requires tremendous force on the thick lines. If I do this the line collapses near the cooler, not good. I'm sure the hose joint won't last long either. Couldn't photograph the result. I'm no expert for sure, but surely this is wrong, and potentially dangerous if the joint fails. Could you please suggest if I'm missing something. Thanks all
  9. Really, there is no mention in the assembly guide of that,, hmmm.
  10. Hey All, Anyone got any ideas over the following wire? I found it tucked into the side panel under the dash. Thanks
  11. Having a look on the parts site, https://caterhamparts.co.uk/hoses/2849-hose-header-tank-to-engine-a-heater-feed-sigma.html So this appears to be the expansion tank to engine and also the heater feed. We know its defo the heater, and header tank sounds like what I refer to as the expansion bottle. I'm wondering if I have accidentally done the correct thing, I'm just expecting a better fit????? I basically have 2 of these, one J for the header and the other for heater.
  12. Thanks I've gone with the solution which I feel is the better solution, regardless of the cryptic manual. I've used the 90 between the heater and submarine, the off cut between the heater and T. Much tidier. That leaves me with 2 J hoses, which I'm convinced is incorrect, regardless I only need to sort the bend from the expansion to the T. I could hack the spare J hose to fit, but the bore is massive even though it reduces, won't be a great seal. I'll focus on solving that as the problem rather than deciding on the bend by the submarine. The other J is clearly the inlet next to the submarine.
  13. Checking the Caterham parts website also confirms the 90 deg hose should be used for the heater and T. This is crazy..... https://caterhamparts.co.uk/hoses/2832-hose-t-piece-to-heater-sigma-r400.html
  14. That image looks like a far sharper curve than I can achieve with a straight section. I've tested fitted, and I'm even more convinced now. 90 degree bend -- good fit. Straight hose with large radius curve. Of course I need the 90 for the expansion back to the T.
  15. Guys, I need more help. I've been having a dialogue with Derek @CC over coolant/heater hoses, and to be honest not really happy with the outcome. Thought I'd bounce it off here. The crux of the matter is that Derek has instructed to me to use a straight hose from the the heater valve to the submarine and not the 90 deg L shaped hose which I only have 1 of. Derek's response, To me this seems a terrible solution as the hose will curve horribly, especially in comparison to a 90 degree elbow which would be far more appropriate. I dont want to cut the hoses and then find its a terrible setup and I have unusable off cuts. Thanks
  16. I'm still struggling with the whole electrical stuff at the moment. I've managed to connect the positive onto the starter motor and run it back, although the cable does seem to be on the limit in terms of length. I'm now trying to tidy the ECU plug and excess wiring, but I just can't seem to get it tidy where I'm happy it won't rub. Does anyone have any good build images of how they solved this bit? Unfortunately I can't go see a car at a dealer etc so images would really help. Thanks
  17. I ended up emailing Derek @CC regarding my positive battery lead as I couldn't find i, so I asked about the terminals. Turns out the connectors aren't used. Thanks all!
  18. understood, again completely learning here, thanks for that. Any thoughts on the other spade connections?
  19. thanks Jim. Is the left stud left disconnected then?
  20. Ref 420 R LHS wiring Hey All, Unfortunately another build post from me, seems I’m hitting loads of dead ends at the moment. I’ve tried this evening to finish off the LHS wiring but the manuals, 2015 and newer one don’t seem to make any sense here, well not to me. I’ve also looked at a couple of reference images I took of a 310 and that seems to differ too. Prior posts are unfortunately not specifically helping and I’m still unsure. Hopefully you can help. Basically I’m trying to sort the wiring for the starter motor. With the exception of the red/white cable attached to the lower thread (hidden in the picture) I’m unsure what I need to attach to the top two main threads of the motor. I seem to have these two cable tied to the chassis and I’m assuming they attach to the starter motor given their ring termination and proximity, but I’m not sure which connection. Given the larger brown wire was already connected to right hand side I’m assuming that would be the logical connection??? Is the brown negative or positive, I’m assuming negative ?? Does anything connect to the left hand connection? Is that the positive from the battery? I then have these as part of the engine loom?? No idea with these. Thanks all.
  21. Thanks for the response, yes the one fitted looks like the one you posted. Yeah CC confirmed the part isn't required. Good job I didn't swap it over. :-)
  22. Guys, While I was working on the build today I found a clutch hose in a box of misc bits. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/clutch-parts/3277-hose-clutch-cylinder-to-bellhousing-rhd-csr.html My clutch etc came pre-installed with a longer clutch hose, and so I'm wondering, no panicking should I have swapped this over??? Anyone offer opinion? Have I royally screwed up? I can't find any reference to it. Thanks
  23. Guys thanks for the info and continued contribution. CC have supplied a set pre-installed now and I've successfully fitted them. My comments about pulling one apart, particularly the one I damaged was merely for education, i.e. to better understand their construction etc. I'm pretty confident of what is inside but fancied taking a look. I wasn't intending on using the bearing.
  24. ahh man really, thought I was done with the radiator and bobbins Mind I still dont think I could drill straight.
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