CtrMint

Thanks for the info Mark. I'm finding the chassis bracket is the first obstruction preventing the hose from fitting, so it's not actually the bobbin.

Before I email him, one thing that occurs to me, how was this R300 style rad used on the R300. I'm of the understanding the chassis hasn't changed, so surely the issue of being unable to get a rad hose on sufficiently has come up before? Of course I'm ignoring the original thread topic of the catch tank here and focussing on the limited overlap on the rad hose itself as shown in my earlier pics.

Does anyone have an email address for him?

Hi, I'm looking to compare my 420 R with other recent cars. I'm suffering major issues with the kit and particularly the radiator, top hose and catch can. I would appreciate the opportunity to compare. Of particular interest is S3 cars. Existing thread. https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/catch-can-questions problem areas Thanks

Makes the question of why they changed more puzzling My radiator shipping box came through with R300 radiator marked on it. Isn't that an old model? Are they clearing old stock, the answer is as simple as that?

JV, if by Dzus bracket you mean the rear catch for the nose cone, then yes the bend butts up against that too. i figured I'd be expected to do something creative with the CC fix for everything, a cable tie. Early on in the build I wasn't happy with the radiator and queried it with Derek. Initially the integrated bolts were way too long so I had to hack them down. During that email exchange Derek confirmed it was the correct radiator. Short of demanding an alternative I believe he is of the opinion everything is correct. My lack of mechanical experience and automotive knowledge doesn't position me well to argue the point. Plus I get the feeling Derek chooses to respond if he feels you have a legitimate point, if he disagrees he is less responsive. To add further complexity I tried to test fit the nose cone the other day and couldn't, guess what.... the radiator was too high. I put that one off for another day assuming it was me, although I do fear its just another issue waiting in the wings I've looked at so many blogs and articles and never found the radiator I have period. It is like I'm the first. CC did send me some photos of the rad, but it was mounted differently, using the cowling. See the image. Clearly the cowling or different bobbins behave differently as I can't get the hose on like that. The chassis bracket I have stops it, it is just in the way. Pic is from an SV, hence doesn't seem to have the same issue with the catch can,

For completeness I thought I'd post would the actual solution looks like, without the hose drilled and fitted. As you can see the top rad hose completely fouls the tank, pushing against the body of the bottle and hose in the tank. The fitment of the top hose on the rad is pretty poor due to the proximity of the bobbin to the port, as shown. Without the hose to show the clearance available. Not happy!

Have you spoken to Graham MacDonald? I wasn't aware it was even an option, does he even get involved with customer service and quality issues such as this?

Jim, I suppose I could, but why should I accept a lesser solution, I've paid the same money as others. If the rad was correct with the top rad port in the correct place the hose would meet correctly and the issue wouldn't be there.

Yes if others could post images it would be amazing. CC have provided some images but they are of an SV with differing dimensions and the use of a radiator cowling too. Interestingly I've yet to see any images from CC of my exact combination, The IKEA style guide was only supplied, but only goes to a 360, and fails to even acknowledge a Duratec, illustrating only Sigma installation and routing. So I've had to print out the old 2015 guide. CC didn't even tell me about that the other manual, lucky Google is more capable! I intend to ship the car at considerable cost back to the UK for Oakmere to do the Post Build check and then put it through a UK IVA, afterwards I'll export it to the IOM. I have family resident in the UK so can make it work. If I come to sell it back to the UK its already IVA'd and just goes back to the original UK plate etc. Considering the extra money this will cost and also the 1500GBP already spent on delivery to date, this car is rapidly becoming more hassle than its worth. My whole experience started badly, but that is another story, and I think its just going to end badly, under the heading life lessons!

Thanks John. CC don’t seem open to much of a discussion on the topic when I previously questioned the setup. It has left me feeling the car is a complete turkey. If I didn’t live in the Isle of Man I’d pay them a visit to seek answers but that is sadly not practical. I am of the view the parts supplied should be appropriate and tested for longevity, neither is the case here. I shouldn’t be redesigning it, thanks for the support though, I was near calling it a day during the week with regards the oil cooler lines, but now even more so. I know the forum members here are fans of the cars, but as a new owner I think they’re a joke and ripping people off, I’m in for 42k in total, and they can’t even engineer hoses and radiator brackets properly. I shudder to think what else is wrong that I can’t see through lack of knowledge. It’s funny as I bought the dry sump option as I thought the wet sumps were too exposed. I saw Youtuber MonkeyLondon damage the sump on a press car today, kinda reinforced my concerns. Am I the only new member that’s been through this pain and openly questioned the kit?

To be honest the rad is totally unacceptable, the bobbins are so close to the top hose port you can barely get the hose over the initial bit, basically just the width of the clamp, that’s it. How Caterham say that is acceptable is beyond me. According to the packaging my rad is a R300 unit, so I’m also concerned whether it will have sufficient cooling too, it’s a smaller core for sure, and don’t the 420 Duratecs run hot too!

Yes, your first image is the one I’ve been provided and I’m not happy about. If you have a look at my earlier posts you’ll see the nightmare I’m having with the radiator. I’ve spoken to Derek at CC and he tells me it’s correct. Getting the hose on the rad with the tank there is an absolute pig and interferes a lot. Of course as per my original post you can’t remove the tank either.

Hi All, Couple of questions on the catch can please. Describing my S3 engine bay as tight is an understatement and I've noticed in order to get the catch can in you need to remove the top radiator hose. Which I therefore assume you have to do to remove. If I need/want to drain or inspect the can that means interfering/draining the coolant? That seems to me to be a royal pain in the butt? Is this correct? Does the catch can 'catch' a lot of vapour from the engine and need much attention? I'm also still working out what I need to do with the can. It came with a hose sticking out as shown, but which is a smaller diameter than the fitting on the side of the tank. I'm assuming I need to fit an additional hole for the correct diameter, or could I use the existing one and just widen it, do I need the existing one? Thanks

I've not worked out how to adjust the throttle body side, I can see the threaded section, but it seems to stiff to turn. I guess I pull the clip out and rotate. But also won't that increase the slack where it hooks in?

I did wonder how it would affect the linearity of the throttle, I made sure I got a screwdriver down to the joint to ensure I eliminated any curve at the top.

Thanks Jim, I thought about it a bit longer and went with the bend approach. Logic being less potential for cable slippage and an issue when you don't need it, i.e. miles from home and no tools. I've now bent the pedal and its worked out fine.

Evening All, Today is going a little better with lots of finishing touches being added to the engine bay. I've got to the point of adding the throttle cable. As expected in lots of documentation it seems very long for the application. I understand the recommendation in the manual is to bend the throttle pedal. However I've seen alternative approaches where the end is trimmed and a cable stops fitted. I wonder if members would give me their opinion on the best approach. Thanks

Thanks for the help everyone, I appreciate it. I guess my expectations with regards the build aren't where they should be. I really do hope it is worth it in the end.

Ended up slackening off the bolts on the block by about 2-3mm, plus the rubber mount. Doing that gave me sufficient to get the bolt in and down a reasonable distance. I then carefully wound the block bolts in carefully quarter of a turn a time. Seems to have worked a treat. I am absolutely destroyed, I look like the wife has been beating me, arms and hands are black and blue! That has to be one of the worst jobs I've done on any car period. Way more difficult than mounting the diff in the Caterham and the engine.

Ok, so I’ve got the hose on and the engine mount, but I can’t get the main bolt down through the engine mount to secure? Ideas please?

Not sure but I only have the hose I have. im bruised and cut to ribbons, seriously considering selling it as is at the moment!

So I spent all day on this. This morning trying every combination to make this fit, but no joy. In the end I've spent the afternoon removing the mount, I can now get the hose on, but the rubber mount is clearly in the way and I can't refit that. I have had one response from Derek telling me to route the line between the chassis and the body work, then nothing more. I'm seriously now at the end of my tether with it..... Truly wish I'd not sunk 40K into this,,,,

Tried that one Jim, it hits the chassis rail

Did you remove your mount?