Kpcseven

Thanks, Jonathan. I already have the Assembly Guide, hardcopy that originally came with the kit as well as a pdf that you kindly provided previously! This thread just made me think that there might be a better wiring diagram with some more details on the original ECU (long gone from my car).

I stumbled on this topic while just surfing around. I have a '93 Vauxhall HPC on carbs and would really appreciate the wiring diagram if anyone still has one around. Thanks, Ken

Very interesting. Thanks!

So a question, what was the purpose of all of the rest of the plate that is now discarded?

Thanks for the replies. I think 60mm will be just right.

Thanks for the reply. I just did the search and none with a Caterham logo, which is what I would like. I guess my real question is what is the diameter of the Caterham wheel center cap or stick on nose badge (not stated on the parts website) so I will know if it will work in place of a horn push button?

I'm putting a 12 1/2" Momo from EBay on my QR hub to replace a smaller wheel. It didnt come with a horn button, nor would one work with my QR, so I'd like something to fill in the 5.5cm hole in the center of the wheel over the hub. I'm sure someone has put a Momo wheel on before. Was there some Caterham wheel center cap or perhaps nose badge that was the right size to fit and look good?

Passed on it because shipping from UK to the US didn't make sense. Good deal for someone else.

Sent a pm to buy.

Alan, Thanks for the information. I didn’t know that there were so few Swindon engines sold. I’m located in the US so your engine builder suggestion, while appreciated, would be a bit far! The Vauxhall was engine wasn’t sold in anything in the US so it’s a fair bet to say that nobody near me is going to be familiar with the engine! thanks, Ken

I have searched but not found anything. Searching the Low Flying archives is not easy.

Thanks for the replies. I knew it was a long shot question.

A bump here just in case anyone with a Vauxhall has any information. I did inquire Caterham as well as Swindon and no information available.

I know the real answer is to put it on a dyno but I’d like to avoid the expense of that and even if I do the closer I start to correct the less time and money it will be. I have a Vauxhall with Swindon 218 hp option setup with Webers and the ecu was replaced before I got it with an Electromotive XDi wasted spark system. Seems to run pretty well but I wondering about optimizing the advance curve as the curve now is just the suggested curve for a 4 cyl engine from Electromotive. . Does anyone happen to have an advance curve for this engine or some guide on how much advance to run? Long shot question I know but I thought I would try. Thanks.

I would inquire Arch about getting a replacement chassis, already skinned, and then do the math on using what's good from yours and replacing what else is needed. The money might still not add up, compared to replacing but I would think it's worth the time to ask and consider. Most importantly, glad you weren't hurt.

So I had a close look at the floor from below and noticed that there is some deformation of the aluminum mostly under the rear attachment points. I used large washers under the seat runners and an aluminum plate below the floor. My suggestion now would be to use something larger under the runners to spread the load on the floor more. I put honeycomb aluminum in now on both sides and my aluminum plates under the floor for safety in case of an accident. I do need to lose some weight but do people with plain floors who have simply bolted through the floor and not added more support really not had any problems?

What I remind my son of every time he drives the car is to consider any accident in a Seven as likely fatal.

Agree, I'm no engineer but drilling into the bolts very near to where they would be most stressed when in need doesn't sound like a good idea. If poppers onto the bolt heads is the best place, perhaps they might stick well enough with epoxy, doubtful, but worth an experiment. Adam, I'd replace your bolt heads if I were you. Thanks for the comments though.

Thanks for the replies. I have an S3. Ken

Simple little question here. I'm going to have my tonneau modifed to add pockets for tillet seats. With the addition of the harnesses and the hardware for the shoulder straps, how are people attaching the back edge over the boot cover? I was thinking of having heavy velcro sewn onto the edge of the boot cover and the back edge of the tonneau with holes and grommets to go over the harness bolts. I'm in the US so just sending to Softbits is out. Am I better off just getting a showercap from Softbits?

Odyssey PC680 should be widely available in Canada. Fits easily in space below the carbs, in and out without removing carbs. I have a 93 HPC Vauxhall on carbs and it fits without a problem. Ken

pm sent

Finally had the time to pull the engine. Turned out that the problem was that the release bearing carrier was not the correct height. My friend suggested that I order this alloy one from Burtonpower which is taller; it was almost an inch taller than what was in there, and when fit it solved the problem. The clutch arm is now in the center of the hole in the bellhousing. The clutch wasn’t fully releasing before and hence the problem getting into reverse. Here’s the link to the Burton part, http://www.burtonpower.com/carrier-release-bearing-ex-long-alloy-mp315.html. Curious, have you all fit clutch pedal stops for fully released and fully depressed? I had previously fit one for fully depressed, and now I don’t like that you can go under the clutch pedal with your foot and move the pedal way up - it would seem possible that the excess slack in the cable could cause the fork end of the cable to come loose. Thanks for all of the help and suggestions.

That would make sense, but there are some events here in Pittsburgh in July that I would like to have the car for so and I'm looking at the clutch and CRB as being wear items. The arm may very well be OK but it isn't too expensive. Good weather and Caterham driving season here is short so the sooner I get to enjoy this new toy the better. Thank you all again for your advice and help.

So, I fussed with things further. Definitely not overextension as no position of the clutch pedal allows normal reverse except with the clutch arm fully hitting the bell housing. Took things off in preparation for pulling the engine and a real mechanic friend took a peek into the bellhousing and said the clutch arm looks like if is probably bent. Plan now is to order parts and then do the engine pull when I can wrestle up my friend’s help and engine hoist my plan is to order a new clutch, CRB and clutch arm from QED. If the rear main seal isn’t leaking I’m going to leave it alone. Any other thoughts on what else you would replace if the engine is out? The clutch btw is still the original with probably around 10k miles on it so I expect it to be fine but I ‘d rather not have to think about it again for some time to come.