Kpcseven

It’s engine out time to figure out a clutch problem (see my Clutch Release Arm ithread). To get at the clutch, which is easier, engine out by itself or engine/transmission out together? How about going back in?s

Keep in mind that I am realy not a mechanic and this is all uncharted water for me so I apologize if I'm being repetitive or asking ridiculous questions. I've gone through the large file of receipts provided by the original owner/builder and see that a lightweight steel flywheel from QED was fit as well as a clutch cover from QED. I believe that the clutch itself is the original supplied in 1993, but their is some clutch paperwork from AP. There is a receipt for a CRB from Caterham in 2004. I'm thinking that I'll replace the clutch and CRB while all is apart, although I suspect that there probably won't be too much wear on the clutch - only about 9Kmiles. Recommendations on source; QED for clutch and an alloy CRB or Caterham? I'm in the states. Being LHD the kit was supplied with a hydraulic clutch but the owner had the parts swapped out by the dealer for a cable clutch. The cable is just long and runs around in front of the engine but doesn't seem problematic. Still not quite clear on the reason for a hydraulic clutch being needed. If anything, there is more room because the steering column is on the left and the clutch arm is on the right. Thanks again for all of the help!

Thank you so much for the pictures! Extremely helpful. It is much clearer to me now that if there is a washer missing from the fulcrum pin or the CRB is not the correct height by just a bit that the movement of the end of the arm would have to be much further, creating my issue with the arm hitting the opening in the bellhousing. I'm wondering now if the CRB on my car isn't the correct one. Would it be the same CRB for a hydraulic clutch as for a cable operated clutch? Suggested source for the correct CRB for a cable operated clutch? Does anyone know or have speculation on why Caterham would spec a RHD Vauxhall with a cable clutch and a LHD one with a hydraulic clutch? Perhaps the parts that were swapped out in the initial build to make it a cable operated clutch weren't all of the correct ones? Great help on here - Thanks again!

Thank you again for the continued comments. I’ll do a detailed search of all of the parts receipts which I got with the car to see if that reveals anything about replacement parts. Might take me awhile to get to the pulling engine point with work and other responsibilities getting in the way but will absolutely take pictures and seek more advice as this is way over my abilities.

Are you saying that there is a different CRB holder that I should be looking for? i checked with the original owner and his recollection, 24 years now, is that he had trouble during the original build with figuring out the hydraulic and exchanged those parts for the cable set up. He doesn’t recall exactly what was sent but not a different bellhousing. Is there anyplace where I could find a diagram or parts list on what the cable set up should be? In case it’s not obvious, I really have zero experience with this repair!

Thanks for the tips! I’m definitely NOT an experienced mechanic, although I’ll hopefully have good help, but now that you point it out not being able to press the new seal in properly does sound like a very real possibility. It’s LHD so there should be plenty of space to check the cable action before putting it back in. Thanks!

I spoke to the previous owner and his recollection is that reverse became difficult after things were apart to replace some worn synchros. I’ve decided that the thing to do is to bite the bullet and pull the engine to determine what is wrong. On the slippery slope of what else should be done so the engine doesn’t have to come out again anytime soon, what else would you replace while there? Clutch, CRB, is the rear main seal on a VX easily accessible? Suggestions so I have the parts on hand appreciated. Thanks!

Thank you all for the quick answers and suggestions. It sounds like that washer may be what’s missing. I’ll check with the previos owner on whether he can remember when reverse became a problem. He primarily only tracked the car so reverse wasn’t an issue that bothered him.

Thank you for the thoughts. I just bought the car so i don’t know the onset. Just noticed that reverse was a problem and then found it. The clutch doesn’t feel worn as it engages with the pedal well down in it’s travel. I don’t think I hear noise from the CRB, but it’s a straight cut box and noisy as well as new to me so perhaps I just don’t recognize it. I spoke to the original owner and builder. He told me that the assembly manual called for a hydraulic clutch for a LHD, as opposed to a cable for a RHD, but he had trouble with it and put in the cable. Could it have something to do with that? Is the pedal position supposed to be determined entirely by the cable adjustment with no stops on either end of it’s travel? The return spring isn’t very stiff and it’s very easy to move the clutch pedal freely upwards. John, I’ve read your posts and blog about preload with an additional spring. This won’t solve my current problem but does it apply to my situation? The car is driveable, forward gears working fine with the arm hitting the bellhousing and reverse being a slight crunch. I’ve installed a pedal stop in the pedal box to limit full pedal down so I’ll know if it is getting worse. Thoughts on driving it like this or should it be engine out to investigate. What I can see of the arm does not look bent sorry for the long post and thanks again!

This is on a Vauxhall with a T9 5 speed and cable clutch. In adjusting the clutch cable when I was having trouble getting into reverse, I've found that the clutch release arm is hitting the bell housing and has actually put a small notch into it where it hits. It has to go this far in order to fully disengage the clutch, and I'm not sure that even then the clutch is fully disengaging as reverse is still a bit difficult. Is there an adjustment that I'm missing or is this a sign that the arm has somehow bent? Could the release bearing be causing this? Thanks.

Job done. Quite a pain. The aluminum bars spannning the crossmembers weren't stiff enough to be of much help so I canned that idea. Mounted to the floor with aluminum plates under the floor. The passenger side (right since my car is a LHD) was significantly narrower than the left. Had to trim down the seat further. Made aluminum templates to locate the rear holes after the fronts were marked. Didn't have to tilt with extra outside spacers but the snap for the rear door strap does interfere.

I suspect that I did if it was the one where some nice bends were put into steel to go down to the floor from the chassis rail and tabs. Quite a bit of work to make the bends so I'm planning on just using a straight piece of aluminum and taking up the gap to the floor with washers where the seat track bolts go. Still thinking it's quite a fuss when so many just go through the floor without any apparent problems. Thanks

Thanks again for all of the replies. Having spent an inordinate amount of time now reviewing old posts and thinking about the situation, my plan now is to see if I can trim a bit more off of the edges, leave the rubber trims off, and see about bridging the front cross member to the tabs on the rear cross member with aluminum, mounting the runners to them and filling the space between the floor and the aluminum straps with stainless washers. And I'll try the extra washers on the outside to tip the seats. Of course, yet another trip to the hardware store. This is the most annoying job ever. I sure hope all of this fussing is worth it. Thaks again!

Thank you for the replies. They are not the Caterham version, but they are the cut down version and I have already removed the rubber trims and trimed the edges about as much as I can see making a difference. The carpet does take up space and it would be an easier fit without it. What are thoughts now on just mounting through the floor, vs making supports to put the load on the front cross member and the two tabs at the back. I’ve seen a few previous posts with Flintstone stories due to the stress on the rivets stretching and tearing the floor. Is that an expectation with direct floor mounting? Thanks again

I'm filling Tillet B6-40 seats into my '93 S3 HPC Vauxhall. It's an incredibly tight fit. I've searched the archives for relavent posts and found some tips but none mentions how very tight a fit (width wise) it is. I'm mounting them on the Tillet adjustable runners Any tips? I found a thread where it was mentioned that extra spacers were put in on the outside to tip the seats a bit. I can see how this would help the seatback with clearing the side and the door snap. suggestions greatly appreciated