Petethediesel

Yes I did Dave. Be careful not to over tighten the sensor lock nut. There's not much metal left once the holes are accounted for. You might not see the glow at the union in full daylight, but in the workshop and under the wheel arch it's fine.

If it is the latest type of sensor (as my recent build SV) the large plastic insulating plug goes through the bracket hole with its retaining nut on the trigger wheel side. The sensor itself obviously goes through the centre of the plug. I only used one sensor locking nut and put this on the outside of the plug not the trigger wheel side. The sensor is a snug fit onc ethe main plug is tightened so it's not going anywhere. The nominal gap is 1mm but I found it necessary to drop this to 0.8mm. Derek H gave me good advice, that I would never have spotted. If you look at the sensor before fitting, it has 4 holes on its circumference. If you turn on the ignition and move the sensor (connected) towards ( say) the brake disc ,you will see an orange glow coming from inside the holes when the sensor has triggered. This same glow is actually visible when fitted, at the joint between the sensor and the cable. It looks like a black mastic joint but the light is there at the trigger point. Use this for your adjustment.

Completely agree with Mike. The Duratec engine is designed to run at 95/100 all day. Fan kicks in circa 105 It's a fairly high pressure system with a 17lb cap.

Remove the spark plugs and detach the inertia switch, for the initial cranking to establish oil pressure. Once you have oil pressure, connect back up /plugs in and you're good to go. You will get plenty of white smoke from the exhaust initially but it's normal, just internal pipe oil from bending burning off.

I'm looking for a genuine Volvo child booster seat for 4 year olds upwards. My understanding being that these are about the only ones on the market that suit the Caterham leather seats. I'm in Yorkshire but collection elsewhere can probably be arranged. Thanks

What you are describing as a template/tool is exactly what the examiner used during my car's test a couple of weeks ago (well maybe not the Caterham cardboard bit)

Yes Mark, the whole thing is the bleed nipple. Half a turn, connect the bleed hose and pump. Do NOT unscrew fully or try to separate the very top section (that looks a normal nipple from the rest of its cylindrical body (it's all one piece.)

Fine wet and dry to remove the internal paint. Put a small amount of grease on the ball and inset. Too much grease will prevent the ball fully seating. You will then find the other ball can be inserted with a firm push on the bar (similarly light greased.) Brute force (mallets etc) will break the plastic ball. Add more grease once fully home.

Mark, I found that no cable ties were needed by using sugru at the ground ear point. I moulded it round the cable and onto the reduced lug. Looks tidy and in conjunction with the piggy back clips it is all clear of the drive shaft.

The diff grinding is not major surgery. its an ear that just pushes the cable run sideways. only talking a few mm reduction not removal. I then used Sugru to hold the cable in place on the ear. Looks neat and gives a straight cable run. The purple meanie link I sent you a while back has this photographed.

Fit the trims afterwards as you may need to trim around the stays. Thanks to the thread of "purple meanie" I found the best routing on the handbrake cable was to: a/ grind out the diff boss to provide a straight route for the cable rearwards. It bends past the lug otherwise about 3" beyond the chassis location bracket. b/ Use rubberised stainless P clips on the A frame. One on the A frame and one reversed onto the cable, piggy backed, on each side. This provides an elegant solution that ensures good clearance , in all areas, and no rubbing on paint surfaces. This was complimented by the IVA inspectors during the test this week. I'll lift the car and send photos if that helps/

My 360 goes in for its IVA on the 29th and has a trackday roll bar. Not expecting a problem but will advise if there is.

Cutting a long story short, I have worked on diesel engines all my working life, and used to live in a rural area, where such skills were appreciated. Favours were exchanged, on a barter basis, and I became known as "petethediesel", Happy days.

Just a matter of gearing!!!

Appreciate the advice. CBS it is then. Good tips SM25. Only been a member for a year but this is far by far the best owners club I have experienced. Thanks all.

Thanks both, convex it is then. I had SPA on a different car and agree the "coming loose" comment. I'll take a look at CBS.

I always look to change tyres in pairs, so option A. When the second pair were worn to 3mm I do the same swap to the spare for one of the worn pair. This way the spare is always fairly fresh.

I'm looking to but a pair of SPA mirrors, so my question to you all is: With SPA products do the flat or Convex mirror lenses work best on a Caterham?. "Convex" can have different interpretations between manufacturers so any SPA specific views (no pun intended) appreciated.

That's very interesting as I recently asked Caterham for the Vintage /green code and they said there wasn't one? Not being a paint expert I'm not sure how to use the 5 code numbers listed. Do you give all 5 to the supplier? I did contact Caterhams previous paintwork supplier, who were very helpful, giving me the following Lechler paint code/volume for a 500ml batch. My local Lechler stockist is able to supply against this in aerosol or standard form. Code of tinter Volume in cc 290155 383.6 29072 87.0 29010 22.7 29085 13.1 29015 4.8 29000 4.1 Don't know if these codes have any reference to the ones you have obtained. Regards

Correct. Added insurance in remote regions. My thinking is to have a ZZS fitted as per the rest of the car, then buy only one rear replacement when down yo 3 mm and put the worn one on as the spare. Rotating in this way would keep the spare in date.

I'm looking to put a spare wheel/carrier onto my new build 360. The best price so far on the ZZS tyre is £143 including delivery for a 195/50/15. Anyone know a lower cost source please?

Hi, Would the cover be large enough for an SV with a spare wheel? Would it be possible for you to post to Yorkshire please? Many thanks Pete

Encouraging and consistent with the general attitude of the testers at Beverley I have met. They even commented that "generally Caterhams are submitted to a good spec."

Ouch! The inspector from Hell. I trust: a/ He's not at Beverley. b/ booked in for colonic irrigation that day.

Appreciate the encouraging words Geoff. I have met the Beverley guys and they seem a realistic bunch. Anecdotal evidence suggests they are looking to pass it, not fail it. Seems they get three hours allowed these days. I've always liked the Wingco Harry Day quote: " Rules are for the guidance of wise men and the obedience of fools".