L777JDP

Thanks Jonathan, Yes, spot on. I don't generally drive at night, so I'd be hard pressed to say when they last worked, but they certainly did earlier this year. No recent work done on the car. Serviced and MOT's by PGM last November, so headlights would definitely have been working then. I figure my next thing to check is the main beam/dipped beam switch as presumably after the off/side lights/main lights rocker switch that is where the power goes next. It isn't easy to get to and there seems little slack in the wires so I'm not sure of the best way to test it. Maybe pull the spade connectors off and test the switch in situ.

They were changed for JAL units a fair while back, and the sidelights (LED strips) work and the main beam works. I've now checked and its not the fuse, the rocker switch or the relay. Switch and fuse checked with a multimeter, and I swapped the relay with the relay for the ignition and that works fine. I could really do with a wiring diagram to understand where the power goes after the rocker switch on the dashboard. Does it go to the toggle switch between dipped and main beam? I have a diagram of the wiring loom from the build manual, but it does not describe a circuit as such.

They were changed for JAL units a fair while back, and the sidelights (LED strips) work and the main beam works. I've now checked and its not the fuse, the rocker switch or the relay. Switch and fuse checked with a multimeter, and I swapped the relay with the relay for the ignition and that works fine. I could really do with a wiring diagram to understand where the power goes after the rocker switch on the dashboard. Does it go to the toggle switch between dipped and main beam? I have a diagram of the wiring loom from the build manual, but it does not describe a circuit as such.

Do the thinkauto gauge isolators mentioned above definitely fit? One of the issues with the very thin Caterham o-rings is that the gauges can easily be overtightened and then the white plastic surround cracks away from the body requiring the gauge to be replaced. So far I've replaced two. These thicker isolators look a lot thicker so better from a vibration perspective, which is what I suspect the above problem is related to.

I've got a AGM style battery from PGM, who do a kit so it fits perfectly in the original battery tray, with a top to retain the strap that goes over the top. Super happy with it, with very high cranking amps. They are just 10 miles down the road from me by the way.

Canvasing interest here. I'm in discussion with DPR Motorsport about creating a version of their pillar mount, but as a direct replacement for the original Spa mount with two holes. Much more convenient to adjust if the mirror gets knocked, etc. Interested? If so just give a yes, followed by 1 or 2. If this goes ahead I anticipate these being around £20 each. Please note that this has also been posted on the Facebook Marketplace and TechTalk pages, so please only post here if you have not there.

I've just use Dry Base, which is a water based plastic polymer, used under plaster to stop damp coming through walls, to waterproof the inside of some planters. It sticks well and can be applied quite thickly, and dries quickly. This topic has just become relevant to me as I have my first star crack on a front cycle wing. I've recently moved to 13" Apollos with ZZS tyres, so perhaps the extra space gives the stones time to pick up radial velocity before hitting the inside of the wing. I don't think there are wing stays specifically for 13" wheels, but something I intend to check on.

Hello everyone, I have a 2013 SV with lowered floors and the seat bolts tend to catch on speed humps. I'm interested in reducing the amount of projection below the floor so I'm thinking of having the bolt go up through the floor, rather than down, maybe using a countersunk screw into a countersunk washer. Interested to hear of anyone's experiences. Best regards, John.

I wonder if this eBay offering can be used with a pair of half doors, so the hinges at the front just go through the polycarbonate? Mine is an SV and I don't fancy cutting up my existing doors. Fixing the polycarbonate to the outside of half doors, drilled at intervals along the bottom might be an option. I'm not that familiar with a half door, and don't have any to look at to check, so I am unsure if this would work.

Hello, My feeling is that the vibration experienced by the door-mounted mirrors is due to the buffeting on the plastic, which moves, and that movement is transmitted to the mirror. One solution might them be to unpick the stitching, remove the plastic and replace it with some thin, but much stiffer Perspex/Plexiglas to fit inside the exposed metal frame. This could not be stitched in place, but could be glued in place, perhaps with the black sealant used for guttering on both sides to re-attach the black fabric surround. I've seen a thread from 2015 where someone cut away half the door to fit Perspex to the outside of it, and have no black surround at the top and the back, which is what got me thinking. Has anyone tried anything along these lines? Interested in the experience regarding mirror vibration.

Hello, Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I'm after fitting a high level brake light. I noticed Mike150 mentions spare plugs to plug it into below the fuel filler cap. Does anyone know what years or models would have these? I've got a 2013 Roadsport SV. Thanks,

Hello, Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I'm after fitting a high level brake light. I noticed Mike150 mentions spare plugs to plug it into below the fuel filler cap. Does anyone know what years or models would have these? I've got a 2013 Roadsport SV. Thanks,

I've gone round in circles on this trying to decide what the best approach might be. I kind of like the idea of something that is integrated, like the small cylindrical front and rear cameras used on motorbikes, but never pulled the trigger. Based on what my mobile does when used as a sat nav I figured vibration would be an issue, so the smaller and lighter the product the better, but that translates into cheap, with rubbish mounting. Another thought I had was mounting it off a bracket on the roll bar. GoPro do a suitable mount, but I'm really after both front and rear. Yet another idea was a bracket that fixed to the top of the windscreen, but I've not come across anything suitable. So, still mulling this over but I will look into the suggestions above.

Hi John, From the comments I wonder if it is not an issue with the CC ECU. I had my engine upgraded by Stuart at Premier Power, including a new ECU. While I did not have any starting problems prior to that, the new ECU is programed to run with higher revs for a few seconds after starting before dropping back down to normal idle speed. You may want to see if you can get the CC ECU unlocked and reprogrammed as I struggle to imagine that multiple cars have the same fault unless it is a software/programming fault. Not sure who might be able to help with that, but doubtless others on here will have experience. PGM are excellent but not sure if this is up their street. Best regards, John.

Jonathan asked me to post what Partridge Green Motorsport used on my car. The product is called thermo-tec-exhaust wrap. They also used the hi-tec-coating from the same supplier (which is sprayed over the wrap). All held on by stainless steel locking ties. The hi-tec coating is a high temperature silicone as I understand it, which cures as it gets heated. It produced a bit of a smell for the first couple of short drives, but nothing too offensive. Best regards, John.

Took a bit of finding. Being aluminium and anodised black they won’t corrode or damage the threads. The ones I got come with an o-ring so unlikely to vibrate loose.

Hi Jonathan, sorry I missed your question about the product used. I’ve sent you a PM.

Yep, 7/16 UNF is what they are. I got a couple of "7/16x20 UNF AN-4 ORB BLACK Hex Allen Key BLANKING PLUG BUNG Male Fuel Adapter" off eBay. Didn't have an Allen key that fits, presumably mine are all metric. However one of my Torx bits fitted perfectly.

Its 2013, so I expect that it is metric. I will try M10. I'm planning to put a black nylon screw in it so it is just a case of figuring out what the size is. I'll see if I can find an M10 bolt to try first just to confirm.

Hello, I've had the seat belts replaced by harnesses, and I want to blank off the hole where the shoulder loops bolt to the chassis. Does anybody know the bolt diameter? Thanks!

Thanks Nick. Given all the feedback I'd be happy to let the four of them go at £250 with the tyres on if anyone on here is interested. I don't currently have photos, but easy enough to take some. If anyone is interested please PM me.

Ian, Nick, thanks for the advice. I've had similar advice via PM. I'm happy to be flexible on the price. I figured that having the tyres on and balanced would make it sensible to sell them as is, but I can remove the 'ditch-finders' and sell them on eBay or Gumtree. Perhaps the wheels alone would be of more interest to someone.

The solution I went for was to get the primaries lagged. It has made a huge difference, to the extent that I now appreciate the heater now that it has turned a bit nippier in the South East of England.

Perhaps half the new price is ambitious for these. I'd be interested to hear anyone's thoughts on a suitable price for these. Thanks!

If anyone is interested, I have another wheel and tyre. Again CLASSIC 6J X 14" SILVER WHEEL but with 185/60 Avon ZV5 tyre in new condition - this was off the spare wheel carrier. Happy to sell this with the set above, or individually. Would obviously suit someone looking to add a spare wheel carrier.