Monte Busa

I did a bit more investigation, and it appears that the oil is all coming from around the metal button / plug pressed into the gearbox case just above the input shaft cover. It appears to have a knick in either it, or the case itself - enough to cause serious weeping around the plug, or drips every few seconds when the box is set on its nose. I guess I'll have to dig deeper. Hmm.

OK, so a frustrating night: I decided to to fix the Type 9 box that was previeoulsy in the car with my 1.4K Supersport engine onto the new engine and ran into what I believe is a problem (or two or three). 1.) Once I got the splines on the input shaft of the transmission to align with the clutch disc, the box slides in, but seems to bottom prematurely. At first I thought it was just the locater dowels needing some persuading, but I'm starting to think the input shaft on the box is too long for my new VHPD crank spigot hole - I did some measurements, and it seems to be about 5mm or so too long. Any pressure on the bellhousing to engine block fastening bolts and the engine and box stop turning freely - so I do thing it's an interference issue. Is this possible? if so, how much does the shaft need to be shortened? If it matters, I'm running the CC dry sump tank / bellhousing. 2.) To get the clutch disc and input shaft to align, I tipped the engine on its nose on the engine stand while I scratched my head about it bottoming out. Once I took the box back off, I noticed a bunch of oil had run onto the clutch pressure plate. I don't think the oil is from the sump tank as it appears to have run down the input shaft. I think I have an input shaft seal leak. I'd love to just run without a gasket but use Loctite anearobic sealant...will this be a problem? I guess this might be the good news of the night, as I can fix it now since the issue was caught before everything goes back together for good and into the car. I haven't taken the front cover of the transmission yet, but I'm thinking of replacing the annular seal as well between the inout shaft and the throw out bearing sleeve / input cover. Also, I did notice some oil weeping out of what appears to be a 1/2" or so diameter metal button / plug of some sort just above the main front cover - I've never seen a Type 9 with one, and I have no idea how I'd get it out aside from completely disassembling the box 3.) Some of the gear oil got on the brand new AP clutch disc (cringe). I washed it off immediately with acetone and brake clean - it appears that it hasn't soaked up any oil, but is it ruined? Argh... Aric

Awesome - thanks, Mark Durrant! Aric

Does anyone have a known working e-mail and phone number for Stack? I've tried a few with no luck. Cheers, Aric

Here's the label...ST8100 (there is an actual model ST8100), might not be that much help...hmmm. Also, it's not a beacon - the Stack in-car beacon receiver has a an IR eye and is shaped like a lipstick cannister... http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/IMG_0589_zpsujaktpyh.jpg

OK, so here goes - Stack UK has been completely unresponsive to multiple requests to help, so I thought I'd try you helpful chaps. I am currently re-doing the wiring system on my racer Supersport (Rover K Series, 1997) originally equipped with Stack 8100 instrumentation. I have a head scratcher: The system has a small black box (around 20mm X 20mm X 10mm) with a Stack label, and hand etched "1567" with an inline signal conditioning board and a Stack 4 way connector. Is this an accelerometer, and if so, how should it be mounted? It was mounted to the outside of a small aluminum box on the scuttle by the PO. Here is a picture:http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/IMG_2226_zpsdfmreyna.jpg

Doing my best Oilyhands imitation: http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/6A5B1F71-60F3-4326-BBBA-FC23C059A142_zpsqggfstjb.jpg

...so I made sure everyone knows who the beasts driver is now: http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/IMG_2292_zpsjxqqtjhu.jpg And finished the fuel system plumbing, including a Jenvey flow through fuel rail with JIC-6 fittings on both ends, Pico injectors, an adjustable Fuelab regulator, and a rebuilt and rerouted (to keep the wiring looking clean) injector loom: http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/IMG_2294_zps2m0bdvjm.jpg

In case anyone else ever needs to know, I just figured out that the recent vintage dry sump conning tower vent fitting threads are 10 X 1.5mm, not 1/8BSP Aric

Working on some signage for the racer. Could it have any other number? Nod to my sponsor, Jegs.com too: http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/10928996_10153071910584743_4244454498942208740_n_zps7924e781.jpg

John - I sent the files to Shaun. Aric

Hi John, Let me know where they should be sent - no problem in doing so! Aric

Hi Mankee, I hounded CC for months for schematics for the EU2 K-Series engine and main loom, and finally got a bunch of files sent just recently. Blatmail me if you'd like a copy of what I have. Cheers, Aric

Awesome, thanks!

...I'm in the proces of reworking through the the neverending wiring on my racer, and need to know: which cylinder is the longest injector lead supposed to run to, No.1 or No.4? (The longest lead from the sub loom connector). Cheers, Aric

I thought I'd start a blog detailing the rebuild of my racer... First, an introduction: I'm an avid track day / time trials racer and car tinkerer / builder (who moonlights as an engineer during the week) from the US (Michigan) who recently acquired my Seven. I'm rebuilding it as a tribute to its previous owner Bruce, who, sadly, succumbed to cancer three years ago. Bruce was very good friends with many of the guys I track with now, so the right thing to do was make it a car that they will be able to remember Bruce by and that he would be proud of if he were still here with us. The car originally started as a 1997 DeDion S3 race spec build, with an EU2 race spec (solid lifters, dry sump, Stack gauges, etc.) 1.4 K-Series minimite. It was well driven by Bruce and was in need of a freshening, so I stripped it back to a bare chassis with skins and have spent 7 months so far building it up. This is what I started with: http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/bruces7_1_zps4ead4b09.jpg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/IMG_2272_zpsb88a5b14.jpg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/IMG_2274_zpsd8726c21.jpg Some of the finer details of the build include a full SLR Cage (man was that expensive to ship from the UK!), Caterham Cars Aeroscreen with SPA mirrors, wide track front end, Nitron single adjustables from MOG / Westermann, lowered seats left and right, Tillett low back seats, full 6 pt Schroth harness sets, Stack 8100 gauges with sequential shift light, 13" bias ply slicks (8X20" front, 9X22" rear) on magnesium Monocoque three piece wheels, CSR front wings, wide rear wings, uprated front and rear brakes, FIA FT3 fuel cell, limited slip diff, 5 speed close ratio straight cut box, and soon, an all singing, all dancing 1.8L K lump spec'd by Dave Andrews (DVA Power, of course)! Here are some build pictures: http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/IMG_0386_zps569d61f5.jpg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/IMG_0389_zps7fafb538.jpg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/IMG_1134_zpsfd101cf1.jpg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/image1_zps9d9755db.jpeg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/image3_zps6653b351.jpeg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/image2_zps6bbc3f00.jpeg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/image4_zps5ce78614.jpeg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/IMG_0639_zps6508d41c.jpg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/Caterham4_zpsd6d0fc60.jpg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/Caterham3_zps0aeef9ed.jpg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/Monocoquewheels_zps350b1df3.jpg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/Seven3_zps193e5885.jpg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/image8_zpsa28e520c.jpeg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/Seven7_zpsea89b984.jpg Dave is helping me build it up, basically from scratch, from across the pond. The engine is built on a new (sourced from Dave) block, VHPD crank, uprated rods, forged pistons, full ported (by Dave) VVC head running BP285H cams and verniers, Jenvey direct to head ITBs, Scouse airbox and trumpets, Emerald M3D, integrating an EU3 MAP sensor for the higher altitude tracks around here, uprated gold Caterham cars dry sump system, etc, etc. Hopefully it will make 205 to 210BHP when it's all said and done. Some pictures of the engine build, the last one being from a few weeks ago, are below: http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/IMG_0391_zpsc1546388.jpg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/image6_zpsbbcca727.jpeg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/IMG_2270_zpseb237d76.jpg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/IMG_2271_zps5d0ef7f0.jpg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/IMG_0850_zps1fddf35a.jpg http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/IMG_20611_zps7eb39271.jpg I'm continuing to slog away on the details of the build, including dereeing cams and completing the ignition system wiring over the next month or so, and will post pictures of any substantial progress as it happens! Cheers, Aric

So I'm a month or so out still, but I'm wondering what the consiensus opinion about breaking in a new K-Series motor would be: - Type of oil? - Loads? - RPM? - Time? I'm surprised I didn't see this in my TechTalk searches... Aric

Double post, sorry.

Although it was designed for metal to metal surfaces, Loctite 574 works well as a way to help seal imperfections between mating surfaces, even when used with a paper gasket, quite well as a matter of fact. Many engine builders actually recommend it as a gasket treatment.

No problem Thompster. TomB - the engine is built on a new (sourced from Dave Andrews) block, VHPD crank, uprated rods, forged pistons, full ported (by Dave) VVC head running BP285H cams and verniers, Jenvey direct to head ITBs with -6AN bespoke fuel rail with Pico injectors, Scouse airbox and trumpets, Emerald M3D, integrating an EU3 MAP sensor for the higher altitude tracks around here, uprated gold Caterham Cars dry sump system, etc, etc. Hopefully it will make 205 to 210BHP when it's all said and done. Here's a pic of the progress so far. Arnie Webb is hooking me up with a uber cool nylon BTCC style cam belt cover soon too. Can't wait to get it back in the car! Aric http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/Seven6_zps00ee9899.jpg

Good tip and reminder Jonathan - that will come in handy Im sure. Cheers, Aric

If no obvious issue is found, and if snugging the bolts doesn't work, I HIGHLY recommend Loctite 574 as a sealant. It works best metal to metal, but will harden anearobically and is completely impervious to oil. Since I've started using it, I'll never go back to anything else.

Thanks for the leads John. I'll check into both. Aric

Hi Thompster. The postage won't be too bad, maybe 25 quid max. I'd like 50 for them plus shipping, but am open to offers. There shouldn't be any need for a matched ECU, which one are you running now? I'm assuming it's tunable? Aric

In the process of upgrading / rebuilding the engine in my S3, I have accumulated a fair amount of parts. Since K Series lumps are not that common in the States, I don't know how much items will be worth, but thought I'd offer them here to see if anyone is interested before they go to the scrap yard / recycler. The engine was in fine running condition when it was torn down for the rebuild. For sale, strictly best offer (I probably won't refuse any reasonable one), though buyer will have to pay actual cost to ship. - 1.4L K short block, with crank, rods, and pistons installed, otherwise stripped. - Stock K head with cam ladder, and valves / seals, otherwise stripped (I may elect to keep this part) - K Supersport intake plenum and throttle body, with bracketry - EU2 MEMS ECU and MAP sensor - Stock (large body) alternator and bracketry - "Purple" dry sump scavenge pump and fittings with some plumbing bits - sintered steel cam wheels - Supersport cams for solid followers Location: SE Michigan USA I'll post pictures if there is any interest.