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Monte Busa

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Everything posted by Monte Busa

  1. Monte Busa
    ....and the beast is alive! http://vid76.photobucket.com/albums/j24/Aric_Streeter/IMG_4243_zpsqhxdroft.mp4
  2. Monte Busa
    Any idea why Revilla's links in the first post in this thread dodn't work for me? They won't click through for me. I'd love to see what's been done, especialy on the MFRU and the MAP as I'm going through a very similar excercise now. Cheers, Aric
  3. Monte Busa
    ,,,ok, I answered my own question - the center pin on the switch is the lamp wire. I'll leave this here for posterity.
  4. Monte Busa
    Does anyone know offhand which wire is the alarm light wire on a three wire Rover inertia switch? Also, how is the alarm light wired? I assume through the alarm wire (which becomes hot when the switch is tripped, to ground? Cheers, Aric
  5. Monte Busa
    Good tip, thanks F355GTS! I'll try that next.
  6. Monte Busa
    I did a bit of fiddling on the brake this evening after dinner, and I noticed that they do indeed "pump up", meaning, repeated actuation removes essentially all the free play, staying hard while actuated after that point, but they literally bleed down again in a second or two once I release the pedal...any ideas?
  7. Monte Busa
    AP Racing rears. No parking brake.
  8. Monte Busa
    ...getting the brakes bled yesterday, I had forgotten what the brake pedal free travel was like prior to the rebuild. The pedal is nice and hard once it starts compressing fluid, but prior to that pt, it has a fair bit of travel - almost one inch (maybe not quite)...keep bleeding? Cheers, Aric
  9. Monte Busa
    Oil and water plumbing done!
  10. Monte Busa
    I ended up rotating mine so the solenoid faces downward - it was within 1/16" of the #4 cylinder header tube (4 into 1 race)...good to change it now before problems with heat start. Now it's plenty safe and out of the' way, and I can access the wiring terminals a lot easier now too.
  11. Monte Busa
    Swaintech coated headers and Merlin stainless box fitted:
  12. Monte Busa
    The engine's in!
  13. Monte Busa
    The last bit of engine bling before the lump goes into the car this weekend - a cam belt cover / insert from Arnie Webb (Dog In The Park):
  14. Monte Busa
    Thanks for the tip on the WOSP starter Mankee. The older starter was getting a little tired sounding on my 1.4SS lump, so an upgrade was in order. Did you rotate the solenoid, or keep it like it comes from the box (upwards adjacent to the block)? Here's mine as it's installed now: Aric
  15. Monte Busa
    Well I finally got the starter fited, after a disturbing amount of grinding and finishing of a brand new block. I found I had to go almost as far as what is shown on Titanium7s picture - maybe 1/4 or so less on the front most webbing, as I sprung for a WOSP starter, and it's body is about 1/2" smaller diamter than teh standard starter that was on the 1.4 K engine. That was the last accessory to fit after having fit the oil filter head and filter, along with the alternator this past weekend, so with any luck the engine will be back in the car in a few days time and I can finish on the final wiring installation and modifications! Aric
  16. Monte Busa
    I am using 330cc pico style injectors with my Jenvey DTH ITBs and their bespoke fuel rail on my ~205BHP 1.8K, and I was told they were good for over 250 or so BHP. If you're using a Jenvey setup, I highly recommend them - very clean install - and the wiring is plug and play to thr Rover loom.
  17. Monte Busa
    I'm still working on it...stay tuned. The clutch disc itself is a bit thicker than the old one, which I believe is the reason for excess take-up on the new setup, I'll post what I ended up coming up with when I reach a conclusion or start scracthing my head again...I have some ideas. Aric
  18. Monte Busa
    Thansk for the picture Titanium7 - I was reaching the same conclusion as what's suggested by what you're showing, namely that the Magneton starter has a bit more clearance than the in-line axial version. Do you happen to know if the Magneton has any problems clearing 4-1 primaries? Aric
  19. Monte Busa
    Is this the WOSP? http://www.amp-starters.co.uk/product.asp?strPageHistory=category&numSearchStartRecord=0&strParents=599,1575&P_ID=35793&CAT_ID=1575&numRecordPosition=1
  20. Monte Busa
    Thanks Mankee. Are there any starters out there that you (or anyone else) know(s) of that require little if any block hacking? I'm specifically concerned about the engine serial number area - especially in the states, grinding off the number for any reason is a no-no... Aric
  21. Monte Busa
    I know I've read somewhere, but can't find out where now, and unfortunately I don't have my 1.4 K block anymore as a reference - but I will need to grind the block webbing for clearance for the starter to fit my 1.8 K block correct? Are there any pictures floating about showing what the typical modificatons look like? Aric
  22. Monte Busa
    Fabricated arm, dry sump - the CRB was the one that was in the gearbox when it was removed from the old engine - it was in good shape, so I reused it (not sure if INA or SKF). I don't remember the old setup having so much slack though. I'm using the old flywheel too, and the replacement clutch is an AP Racing kit from CC, their "uprated" Rover kit. Aric
  23. Monte Busa
    OK, I successfully shortened the gearbox input shaft to work with my VHPD crank and installed the box. I noticed that the clutch release bearing doesn't contact the pressure plate fingers from my new AP clutch kit until the clutch fork is halfway through it's travel, as fixed by the cutout in the bellhousing. Normal? Thanks, Aric
  24. Monte Busa
    Woah, I'm glad you pointed that out Paul! I feel kind of silly now, but I guess I would have discovered that soon enough if I popped the top of the box - much approeciated though. If I were closer to you, I'd owe you a beer for sure! Cheers, Aric
  25. Monte Busa
    Mark, your contact came through, with detailed info, schamtics, etc. ...and my mystery part was definitely an accelerometer :) Cheers, Aric
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