michaelf
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Everything posted by michaelf
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#7 It is a pressure bleeder, the link I used described it (mistakenly) as a vacuum bleeder for some reason
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Hi, I've used this - Sealey VS820 Brake And Clutch Bleeder Vacuum Type 2.5L Fluid Bleeding Kit and found it to work very well on both the Caterham and a couple of cars with ABS, I use it with their - Sealey VS0212 Brake Bleeding Bottle just for convenience but you can make something similar. Brgds, Mike
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I've just booked mine for a pre-MOT inspection and MOT @ PGM, I take it to them every year. I live in Cranleigh.
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Although I do all my own servicing, I take it to PGM in Partridge Green for its MOT, where are you?
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I've a motorsport-themed Dunlop one
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A wrist sweat band also works quite well, they stretch over the whole reservoir.
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It's the inertia switch, turns off the fuel pump in an accident, there are quite a few threads on this site about them.
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Wheel alignment equipment - worth the investment ?
michaelf replied to Geoff Brown's topic in TechTalk
I've used the Trackace on several of my cars over the years, might not be as accurate as a decent garage, so long as you've a flattish floor and a bit of space on both sides, it's a bit difficult to read in bright sunlight but that's not a problem at the moment. I was impressed with how easy it is to use once you get used to directing the beams etc. -
Been running past it all week.
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I did this over the winter, I used the Caterham supplied ones, I found that the hoses were a bit tight on length for easy routing, they were routed behind the watts-link bracket, protected with some rubber hose and secured with a tie-wrap. Have a look at - https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/r400d-routing-braided-rear-brake-hoses-around-watts-links Post #11
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Thanks Andrew, helped keep me sane today, thought it was the immobiliser, turned out to be the connector from the MRFU to the solenoid. Why is the problem always in the last place you look?
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Ditto for the reverse switch and refit the reverse switch after you put the engine/box back in the car. Mike
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Brake Fluid & Pads. Confirmation before pressing "buy now"
michaelf replied to Grandmaster Flatcap's topic in TechTalk
I was recommended Mintex Ceratec, worked better than Copaslip, no more brake squeal. -
I did mine earlier this year, K-Series/6-speed, initially I just did the engine because I thought it was the rear oil seal, turned out to be the gearbox. A load leveller was invaluable. I wish I'd removed them together because I think it's easier and lessens the risks of damaging the clutch, gearbox mounts etc. Also I wish I'd removed the reverse switch before extracting the engine/gearbox and refitted it after putting them back in as I managed to break two.
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Might have been me, although I'd say mine was more orange, heading south after Driving Performance day at Bruntingthorpe with Don Palmer
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Beare Green heading towards Ockley 6.30am Unfortunately I was in a VW Polo
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Copper RTV silicone for me, Dave Andrews recommended I use it to seal around the pipes in the collector, just push it into any gaps you can reach.
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If you do remove everything, try to extract the reverse gear switch beforehand (i.e. with everything still in the car), I broke mine taking out the gearbox and then broke a new one putting the gearbox back in , it can be removed and refitted with the gearbox in situ (in my car at least)
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Gareth, thought mine was leaking from the oil seal. Like F355GTS, it turned out to be the gearbox, it wasn't obviously gearbox oil because it was such a small amount everytime (and wasn't filled with Redline MTL), but enough to cover the underside from the bellhousing backwards. Unfortunately the only way to find out for sure was to remove the engine, I just did the engine to start with but wished I'd done the gearbox/bellhousing/engine all in one go.
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Ta
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It's actually the cable sheath that pops out of the handbrake barrel i.e. round lump of metal with a slot for the cable and small recess for the cable sheath. The barrel is held in the handle with a u-clip which allows it to rotate as the handbrake is engaged and theoretically keep the sheath in the recess (at a right angle to the force being applied), the slot is designed with a slight taper so that the cable can be forced into the slot but shouldn't pop out easily. I suspect that because the barrel doesn't, in reality, swivel smoothly, the sheath takes the path of least resistance and pops out (it always comes out as the handbrake is released). Explaining it has given me a couple of ideas, 1) grease and 2) something more agricultural involving lumps of iron and a welder
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MADMALC, thanks, the build manual instructions would be useful.
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Does anyone have any tips for stopping the cable popping out? I know it only needs to work once a year but it's driving me mad. The only permanent solution I've found to try so far is drilling through the handbrake barrel and fitting a split-pin to trap the cable. All suggestions gratefully received. Thanks
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I've just had a similar problem with the 6-speed in mine, oil leaking from the front of the gearbox into the bellhousing along the shaft, it only happened when the car was driven, I've taken it to Road & Race for sorting & an overhaul. When I separated the gearbox from the bellhousing there was a little pool of oil on the front, it's contaminated the clutch/pressure plate and coated the inside of the bellhousing, cleaned up OK. Mike
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You could also try this - Mintex Ceratec Anti-Squeal Brake Pad Lubricant Grease instead of Copper Slip, worked for me, I used it without shims