Pierre Gillet Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 Well the alternator of my LHD 1997 1.6 K is out of order. I am contemplating ordering one of these Brise alternators proposed by Demon Tweeks. Should I order a 40 Amp, a 55 Amp or a 70 Amp ? A Denso or a Mitsu ? And will the existing mounting bracket fit with the new alternator The car is LHD and the alternator is on the right handside. Should I order a larger pulley and what diameter, offset, grooves And finally, given the above issues , would I be better off ordering it from CC ? Cheers, Pierre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulo Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 Pierre, Tu peut le commander, directement chez Brise. Tim Brise est pour les renseignements. Salut, Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Gillet Posted January 15, 2006 Author Share Posted January 15, 2006 Merci Paul http://www.startermotors-alternators.com/Motorsport-Alternators.htm Pierre Edited by - Pierre Gillet on 15 Jan 2006 19:04:02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFA Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 Pierre, My experiences regarding the reliablity of Brise alternators is *thumbdown* *thumbdown* Bouncy Castles at track days anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 Pierre, I have a Brize alternator and a starter. If the correct pulley is on there is no problem. Get it direct from Brize. the details are: rear of 119, Dartford Rd, Dartford, Kent DA1 3EN Tel: 01322 277622 Is it Ok to email you tomorrow about Lotus Club of France track days. The guys on www.forum-autoroule.com said you were the man to talk to. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven to The French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Gillet Posted January 16, 2006 Author Share Posted January 16, 2006 Thanks Arnie and Norman Norman, YHM Cheers, Pierre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Gillet Posted January 16, 2006 Author Share Posted January 16, 2006 OK, I am a complete nufty in these alternator matters I find 7 Volts @ 1200 rpm between the two bolts under the black plastic caps here Any meaning ? Also after removing the U type circlips on the big rectangular plug, I cannot take this plug out. Must I use brute force ? Cheers, Pierre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 Pierre, lift the spring clip that holds the oblong plastic plug on. The wiggle the plastic plug whilst pulling away from alternator. Remove the terminals from the plug and refit the wires. You should get about 13.6v at 1200 rpm. If not the alternator is faulty. ps, the large brown wire may be one on its own. Still should give 13.6 at 1200 rpm. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven to The French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Gibb Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 My experience is similar to that of EFA, in fact I am now looking at alternatives. L7 FUN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Gillet Posted January 17, 2006 Author Share Posted January 17, 2006 Thanks Norman *thumbup*I did what you recommended and found a brown lead oxydized and half broken Paul, thanks for the feedback. Have already you found any alternative ? Is it possible to get a suitable alternator from CC and at what price ? Cheers, Pierre Edited by - Pierre Gillet on 17 Jan 2006 12:57:44 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Gillet Posted January 17, 2006 Author Share Posted January 17, 2006 Job done following Norman's procedure After cleaning and soldering of the terminal on the big brown wire. Engine running @ 1200 rpm 14,10 V (instead of 13,40 V) between + and - of the battery 14,50 V (instead of 14,18 V) between - of the battery and + of the alternator) . Cheers and many thanks guys Pierre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Normans_Ghost Posted January 17, 2006 Share Posted January 17, 2006 Pierre, did you "squeeze" the large terminal jaws together with a pair of pliers. If the connector was tight it's OK but if it just slips on/off try pinching the jaws together. The problem, as always, is heat. The back of the alternator is inches away from No. 1 exhaust pipe. I made a small ali "box" and covered it in "ccoltape" which cured the problem until I got the exhaust through the bonnet. This also cured the starter motor soloniod problem. Now have Brise alternator (with correct pulley) and Brise starter. After a few problems with the starter motor internal crimp joints I have very reliable electrics. Norman Verona, 1989 BDR 220bhp, Reg: B16BDR, Mem No 2166, the full story here You and your seven to The French Blatting Company Limited Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pierre Gillet Posted January 17, 2006 Author Share Posted January 17, 2006 Yes Norman, I did squeeze the 4 jaws. One of then though broke ... so I decided to solder the wire and the terminal. The LHD Sevens do not have the problem of heat since the alternator is on the left handside. I installed the race Brise starter one year ago and I am very satisfied. Pierre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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