DW Posted April 23, 2005 Share Posted April 23, 2005 Checked all my valves and one of them has a slight sideways movement in the guide. Will this be cause a problem and what is the solution? David 1700XF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe 90 Posted April 23, 2005 Share Posted April 23, 2005 In my experience wear accelerates, and you will soon have a lot more sideways movement. If the valve isn't constrained to move properly by the guide then the seat sealing will suffer eventually. I would keep an eye on it, and plan on getting the guides changed when you next strip the head. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,300 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thinfourth Posted April 23, 2005 Share Posted April 23, 2005 seeing head is already stripped and has a dodgy valve i think it is new guide time. Sod the heater wheres my shades Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DW Posted April 23, 2005 Author Share Posted April 23, 2005 mmm, yes it's stripped. Presume the guide needs to be machined out? i.e. it's not a DIY job 🤔 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owelly Posted April 23, 2005 Share Posted April 23, 2005 Is it exhaust or inlet? If it's inlet, get it done. If it's exhaust, I would leave it. But I am a tight Yorkshireman... its only a game......... http://daftlardycars.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/ http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=gal&user=owelly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe 90 Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 I just pushed mine out and pushed the new ones in. You will need to grind the valves in afterwards. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,300 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DW Posted April 24, 2005 Author Share Posted April 24, 2005 It's both the inlet and outlet on cylinder 2. Do you mean the valves or the guides Oliver? Is it more likely to be the valve stems themselves or the guides? I'm finding that I've burrs on the top of the stems where the collets go which stops the valves being pulled out - is this usual? It looks like I need a bit of wet and dry or a file on the burr to then be able to pull the valves out.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owelly Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 You need to measure the stems to see if they are worn but usually its the guides 'cos they are made from softer stuff. Cheese for example. It's not unusual to have slight burs on the tops of valves. Wet & dry or similar will sort them. Its not much of a job to change guides (or scouts) as long as you have a good press and the right reamer to finish with. its only a game......... http://daftlardycars.mysite.wanadoo-members.co.uk/ http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=gal&user=owelly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe 90 Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 The burrs on the valves are quite common. I suggest filing them off (or using wet and dry), although if you replacing the guides anyway you could try pressing them through. As you will have to remove the burrs before refitting, I wouldn't risk it. To press the guides out you will need a suitable drift and a large vice. I would suggest bronze guides (available from Burtons and the like), as I think most of the others are rubbish. SEP field working, not spotted in 103,300 miles. Some photos on webshots, updated 25 Jan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger King Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 Guys, the valve guides on a Crossflow are simply a drilling through the head casting - there is no separate guide to push out. The only way they'll be separate items that you can press out will be if they've previously been worked on by a machine shop. An easier way to repair them is to have K-liners fitted. These are bronze sleeves that fit inside the original guide after it has been machined to a larger ID. Naturally, this has to be done by a suitably equipped machine shop. Most Caterham supplied Supersprints really need bronze guides rather than the std cast iron, so the K-liner can be a reasonably cost effective way of achieving this. I'd recommend that they are all done at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 Oh dear, not as easy as hoped then. In your shoes I might be inclined to reassemble it and monitor compressions and oil usage, especially if the bottom end is of unknown or somewhat worn condition, but it won't heal up. OTOH if the bottom end is in superb order (decent pistons, rings good etc) then I'd fix the head properly as suggested by Roger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DW Posted April 26, 2005 Author Share Posted April 26, 2005 I do indeed have brass K-liners fitted at time of supply of engine by Vulcan. I've spoken to Steve at Vulcan - he said that he was surprised I was getting stem movement and explained that there was a small tolerance - he suggested that bit of oil down the stem would highlight whether or not there was a problem. Hey presto - with oil down the stem there's no movement, so tolerance therefore OK . Just the piston rings to replace now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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