Nic Day Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 My first real mechanical job has come up due to a broken alternator!!! and I am planning on trying to change it myself (ooohhh sh!t!!!) So is this an easy job (it looks like it, a couple of bolts a few wires, take it to a local motor factors, get the same one, change the pully I think and put the new one on) Is there anyting I should not forget, do or check? And where is the best place to get an alternator? is it the local motor factors? or a specialist? I have a 2ltr Zetec I think 1996. Cheers for advice Nic Winner of the Largest pair in a non SV 7 (Rumble 2003) here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F355GTS Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 Nic disconnect the battery before starting on it! other than that it's normally pretty straightforward Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulyb Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 Nic Agree with Mark - fairly easy job, if a little frustrating gaining access under the headers and wiggling the old one out!!! Many factors / auto-electricians will do re-conditionned ones and will p/ex your old one. Might be worth a trip to your friendly local 'under the arches' garage and asking who they use locally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Day Posted January 3, 2005 Author Share Posted January 3, 2005 Thanks for the advice re the battery and the motor factors I will have a phone around tomorrow and see what they cost!!!!! Cheers Nic Winner of the Largest pair in a non SV 7 (Rumble 2003) here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 The other option depending upon how it's failed is to replace just the voltage regulator (sometimes comes as a unit with the brushes). I've done this change on two previous (non seven) cars and saved a small fortune against the cost of replacing the whole alternator. Maybe worth taking the old one to an auto-electrical specialist to get it tested. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted January 3, 2005 Share Posted January 3, 2005 If you have a 7 with an ECU, the regulator will be part of the ECU and not part of the alternator. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Day Posted January 4, 2005 Author Share Posted January 4, 2005 As the car died on me yesterday and the very nice AA man got me started again he checked the alternator and it was only just charging the battery. He also said the it is a complete unit as the regulator was built in!!! So looks like it has to come out and be replaced!!! Winner of the Largest pair in a non SV 7 (Rumble 2003) here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chelspeed Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 > If you have a 7 with an ECU, the regulator will be part of the ECU and not part of the alternator. This doesn't sound right. I've not come across any ECU's with alternator regulators built in. On which ECU / alternator are you basing this comment? Some of the bigger old style rally car type alternators in the 70's used to have a remote regulator. Since then every alternator I have played with has had an internal regulator. Only thing that is often built into the ECU I can think of is the ignition amplifier. It's a small electronic box but that's the only similarity with the alternator regulator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 Partco replacement alternator £120 exch. (K series) New reg box £70 (French motor factor) Auto elec rebuild charge, inc fitting and guarantee £40-50. You decide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 Blimey, most I've paid for a regulator/brush unit a couple of years ago for a Volvo 440 was about £30. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Day Posted January 4, 2005 Author Share Posted January 4, 2005 Right, so I have to take out the alternator and take it to a motor factors and get them to price up either replacing the whole lot or a brush kit? Winner of the Largest pair in a non SV 7 (Rumble 2003) here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 Sounds like a good idea to me. Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super_Rich_Bernie Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 I have had two different alternators fail (admittedly not on a Caterham). In both cases I was able to dismantle and replace the faulty components for less than a tenner. They are not particularly complex, and can be repaired on the kitchen table with basic tools. If you buy a cheap recon I wonder if they have replaced the windings etc, which is the bit which will render DIY repair a no-no. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Turner Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 Nic The alternator has just died on my Zetec, it uses the X-flow Lucas type unit under the carbs. I have been quoted £18 for a recon unit (6 month warranty) or £40 for a new (read old case with all new internals) unit (18 month warranty), both plus VAT. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris W Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 Chelspeed Many cars nowadays with ECU's have the regulator built into the ECU rather than on board the alternator. Pin 35 on the large MEMS ECU connector is the regulator sense lead (White/Red) which goes to the alternator. Chris 2003 1.8K SV 140hp see it here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Day Posted January 4, 2005 Author Share Posted January 4, 2005 Paul sounds like the one I have. Do you have any part numbers to hand so I can call around today while I am at work!!!! Also did you have to change the pully on the front? Cheers Nic Winner of the Largest pair in a non SV 7 (Rumble 2003) here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Turner Posted January 4, 2005 Share Posted January 4, 2005 Nic The part number on the alternator is LRA100, the factors used that number to cross reference. That number is only any use if the thing fits under the carbs, under the exhaust and its a LRA101 (I think). I will swap the pulley and fan off my old one, they are not normally fitted on recon units. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Day Posted January 5, 2005 Author Share Posted January 5, 2005 Cheers Paul that is just what I need!!! I am going to have a ring round today!!! Nic Winner of the Largest pair in a non SV 7 (Rumble 2003) here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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