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Whats so special about Mobil 1 ??


Nick Woods

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I was wondering what is so special about Mobil 1 when compared to other synthetics (e.g Comma etc) ?

 

Lots of people tell me its brilliant but cant back it up with anything other than 'we ran our old xxxxx on it for years and it was fine' or 'yyyyy racing team always use it'

 

I'm just looking for something a little more substantial that that , this is assuming that the viscosity is the same as the 'comparison' oil.

 

Is there something in the composition that makes it better or is it just marketing hype ?

 

BTW I'm not trying to start an argument, I'm just curious.

 

 

 

 

 

Nick

Red and Black 1.6K supersport

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Dunno why but Mobil 1 is a buggar to clean off parts , it leaves a yellow glue/film that is difficult to remove . It also has a proven race history with many top teams and is generally trusted by many .

 

Various comparisons have been made with other brands by major manufacturers such as BMW , and they continue to use Mobil 1 .

 

I think trust is the main reason that many choose it .

 

Lotus 7 Club Speed Champion 2003 *eek*

South Wales Area Organiser *smile*

C7 TOP *tongue*

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Nick, The mobil 1 site is here The theory is that as it's synthetic as apposed to minerial it has polymers (?) which can stand up to higher tempratures and greater loads than mineral oil. You'd need to speak to a chemist to fully understand. I've run my engines on Mobil 1 since it became available. The thing that convinced me was that, then at least. the aviation authorities banned it in petrol engine aircraft until their engines had done so many miles as it's claimed that it's so good it will not allow an engine to "bed" in. I read a report about a trial Mobil did running a BMW as a New York taxi for 100,000 miles. The engine was stripped down in a lab and there was so little wear they could still see the machine marks on the camshafts.

 

I've spent a lot of money on my engines (BDR in 7 and Twin Cam in Elan) and am therefore going to spend the extra on oil which has good reports. I'm not sure about the F1 cars as some years ago a team was found to be using other than it's sponsors claimed. The sponsor wasn't botherd the press reported they used his product! However I guess they do use Mobil 1 and if so thats another brick in the wall , or is it oil in the way.

 

norman verona

1989 BDR 220bhp

Mem No 2166

 

spilling eror

 

Edited by - nverona on 4 Feb 2004 22:05:48

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IMHO, there is a lot of hogwash talked about engine oil brands, as there is about most branded items. A lot of it boils down in the end to personal preference - "You pays yer money and yer takes yer choice".

 

As far as I'm concerned, as long as engine oil has the correct specification, I'll use the cheapest one available that will do the job. Synthtic oil is more efficient overall as a lubricant in engines designed and built to current manufacturing tolerances - they do not respond kindly to 20/50 Mineral oil, as did the engines of the 60', 70's and 80's - Duckhams 20/50 .... Ahhh, there's motor oil for you 😬

 

I use Halfords fully synthetic 5 - 40, it's considerably cheaper than Mobil 1 and my engine is fine.

 

Please don't get me started on Shell Optimax, another waste of money in my opinion *cool*

 

BRG Summertime Brooklands SV 😬 It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

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Tony, your probably correct. However, I know a guy who buys bulk Mobil 1 from Mobil, and repackages it and sells it cheaply. Went over to his place to get some and saw the dirt and grime they were working in - just turned round and went and got some in a sealed can and paid full price.

 

When I ran a dealer group, the first thing I did when I took control was to get rid of the bulk oil and stock packed. Apart from stopping the thieving, I knew, as I had started with the company as a mechanic, how much grit was getting into the bulk stuff.

 

norman verona

1989 BDR 220bhp

Mem No 2166

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Bob,

in France racers are often using Motul 300V Motorsport oils which are fully synthetic Ester based.

They are more expensive in France than Mobil 1, but not that much knowing that Mobil 1 is NOT Ester based.

Page 235 of the DT catalogue gives the various viscosities, however the one that is easiest to find is the 300 V Competition 15W50 @ 19 £ / 2 l.

Question: do you see any risk in using this viscosity in my 1.6K with Appolo and Laminova to go to circuit for track days, while using a less expensive synthetic 5W50 the rest of the time?

 

Cheers,

 

Pierre

 

Edited by - Pierre Gillet on 5 Feb 2004 08:48:38

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Have a look here for everything you need to know about engine oil, but were afaid to ask 😬

 

One of the disadvantages of giving advice about things like this is that one has to be very precice and not take any prior understanding of the subject by the reader for granted.

 

As Norman points out, bulk oil can contain all sorts of unknown bits and pieces, so should be steered clear of, however cheap it is.

 

Sealed, unopened containers of the correct specification oil from a reputable source is the way to go - of the appropriate viscosity.

 

 

 

BRG Summertime Brooklands SV 😬 It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

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One of the disadvantages of giving advice about things like this is that one has to be very precice and not take any prior understanding of the subject by the reader for granted.

 

Agree 100% with Tony. I once gave advice on here making the assumption that the reciepient was "mechanicly compotent". I was wrong and Peter Carmicheal pointed this out. I apoligesed and have since tried to avoid doing this. However, it is very difficult to judge a persons mechanical knowledge/experience by their postings. I suspect that some postings, whilst giving the impression that the poster knows which ways up, has in fact, got it out of a book, and wouldn't know a core plug from a spark plug!

 

So what are people like me who have long experience of things mechanical, but have probably forgotten most of the theory taught at college 40 years ago, supposed to do? Our experience may not agree with the theory. Does this make it wrong to pass our knowledge on? It may well be the answers YES, when talking to someone who experience is an unknown factor. Some posters make it clear that, whilst they know what to call things and what they do, are mechanicly inept.

 

I'm coming to the conclusion that it's not worth answering technical questions as the grief sometimes thrown your way is just not worth it.

 

norman verona

1989 BDR 220bhp

Mem No 2166

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Some oils are better than others and Mobil 1 is a good oil. Basically good oils will hold their grade for longer and offer superior protection through their additives. Some cheapo packaged oil may not hold its grade for long or may even be a bit variable in the grade that is actually in the pack.

 

A lot of people swear by Mobil 1 because of the brand and the motorsport associations. Many of the guys on hear seem to be putting in Mobil 1 motorsport because of it's better high temp. protection. Fact is the cold start protection of the motorsport stuff is not good enough for a K-Series and is likely to lead to damage and premature wear.

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I agree with you 100% Norman. I was referring to myself 😬

 

I've "suffered" from people misunderstanding advice I've given from the begining of posting here, but have come to the conclusion that I have to be very careful, not only with what I write, but how the information is presented.

 

However careful we all are - unfortunately, someone will always manage to get a firm grasp of the wrong end of the stick. So my approach has changed, but I think it worthwhile to continue to offer advice and try to correct misinterpretations as they appear.

 

I do find that my attempts to keep things simple and straightforward and to present my point of view in ways that a layman is likely to understand, can cause problems with the more advanced reader - something about pleasing all the people 😬

 

My view is still to Keep It Simple Stupid (The KISS approach) because I feel that including ALL the technical details tends to obscure the point rather than clarify - but that's just my opinion.

 

Bottom line - please don't be disuaded Norman, we all value your input 😬

 

BRG Summertime Brooklands SV 😬 It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye. (Antoine de Saint-Exupery)

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Well said Tony *thumbup*. As one of the mechanical numpties 😳 I am learning though *smile* I appreciate peoples comments/advice and I think all users of advice should bear in mind that some of the replies etc are opinions and how a certain person would attack something. I guess for many things there are not always gospel answers available.

 

That said, I tend to counsel several peoples advice before I attempt anything that I'm unsure of.

 

Chris Alston

1800 Supersprint here

Drive it like you stole it! *eek*

 

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I suspect the vast majority of owners here have a standard or mildly tuned K series, not a purpose built motorsport engine. I suspect that the recommendation of the manufacturers, after spending huge amounts researching this are as good as any. Regardless of how unsexy it is to buy the same oil as the bloke with a Rover 400, so long as it's the recommended viscosity, there should be no problems. Mobil 1 is undoubtedly a fabulous product, but with regard to a 'standard' engine is probably overkill regardless of the 'assoiated with motorsport' warm feeling it gives as you walk out of Halfords past Kev in his Nova. 😬

I agree with Tony C that there is a lot lot of hogwash talked about brands.

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Just a little point ....The filter is extremely important too. They don't just filter particles from the oil, they allow air to escape. I once put a Halfords filter on my E30 M3, with 0W-40 Mobil 1(as per their guide) - I used to get everything from BMW but they were closed that weekend. Anyway, the first time the oil got really hot - when I blatted to work the next morning, the car sounded like a diesel wnenever revs dropped. It was so bad I left the car at the office and got a lift home.

It turned out that the problem was caused by the filter not removing the air that formed in the Mobil 1. This air built up in the cam-chain tensioner so the chain rattled. 0W-40 is apparently a bit runny for the M3 but it was always OK with a BMW filter.

Halfords were made to pay the full cost of repairs but accepted no liability(of course). They said they would get all their oil guides changed but they haven't.

 

J351 TPE . . . battered old X/Flow

 

Edited by - AdamHay on 5 Feb 2004 12:50:21

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Adam, In the early days of Datsun imports I looked at a an engine to which a dealer had fitted a non Datsun oil filter. Mike Hoppis, Datsun's engineering manager discected the filter (made by a well known US company) and it's innards had collapsed to such an extent that it stopped the oil flow. It had been on the car for about 6 weeks. A memo was sent to all dealers, about 30 in those early days, telling them that they would be held liable for engine damage claimed under warranty due to fitting any non OEM parts. Roger King uses Ford filters for Fords, and I suspect Rover for Rover.

 

I change my oil & filter every 3000 miles, I also flush engine and strip and clean dry sump at same time. I know it's expensive but a new all steel BDR is priced at £17000 so I consider this insurance fairly cheap.

 

norman verona

1989 BDR 220bhp

Mem No 2166

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talking about filters illustrates the point Tony & I were making earlier. Advice given on this subject should have mentioned oil and flushing mineral oil out before filling with synthetic. I'm guilty of assuming that everyone would know that and forgot to mention it. Question for Nick W, did you know that, have I been guilty of giving half an answer? Honest answer please.

 

norman verona

1989 BDR 220bhp

Mem No 2166

 

spilling agin

 

Edited by - nverona on 5 Feb 2004 15:15:45

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Question for Nick W, did you know that, have I been guilty of giving half an answer? Honest answer please

Actually, you gave the half of the right answer but to the wrong question *tongue* - i asked about Mobil 1 vs other synthetics rather than Mobil 1 vs mineral..... You did ask me to be honest though didnt you *wink*.

 

No problem by the way, its all interesting stuff so please keep it coming *thumbup*

 

You've put me right off buying bulk oil though, I'm now wondering what gets put in my tintop when it gets serviced *confused*

 

For the 7 (1.6K SS) I've been using Comma SynerG or Halfrauds 5w/50 which is allegedly very similar. So far nobody has convinced me that theres anything wrong in that, which is good ! (BTW I realise that Mobil 1 is not the same rating so I would be wary of it anyway).

 

Adams comment about the filters is interesting too - I've always used Rover filters bought from Caterham or Redline and will definitely continue to do the same.

 

 

 

Nick

Red and Black 1.6K supersport

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thanks Nick, I'm not one to get upset when it's shown that I'm stupid, educations a wonderful thing and we all need it all the time,

 

I'll try a read more carfully in future. No excuse but mitigating circumstances, your honour, I try and deal with BC whilst I'm working so don't always pay enough attention.

 

norman verona

1989 BDR 220bhp

Mem No 2166

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When Mobil 1 first came out there was some advertising blurb with it, based on tests carried out by BMW. As has been posted after 100.000 miles the test engine was dismantled and the internals were within as new tolerances and could have been put back in the parts bins.
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